Hand stitching type? (not saddle for sure)

[mayorblurps]

Hey folks. Just a hobbyist and amateur leather worker here. I have seen and wanted this little wallet for a while but I figured I could just make it myself. What stands out is the stitching. 

I actually asked the maker what kind of stitching it is - she replied it's not saddle stitching because that is 'overkill' for a wallet, something like that. I cannot replicate what this is or even come up with what style it may be. 

Any ideas? 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/157324836/personalized-gift-treasure-chest-credit

[ENC]

It is back stitching using 1 thread, 2 forward on top 1 back on the bottom. Look at the corner on one of the wallets where you can see both the top and bottom stitching. You will see that the corner stitch on the top goes diagonally missing the corner hole, but the corner hole still has 2 threads 1 going in and 1 coming out.

 

Ray

[Tugadude]

Totally disagree that saddle stitching is overkill for a wallet, but it seems obvious the proprietor of the leather company wants to keep the technique secret.  Or at least make you work to figure it out.  Since it is their "signature", I would not try to imitate it.  Come up with your own signature stitch.  Good luck!

[Halitech]

Saddle stitch is over kill because she probably can't figure it out. It's a backstitch as ENC said and has the same inherit flaw as machine stitching, cut one stitch and the whole thing unravels.

[Tugadude]

Yes, it is a backstitch.  There is a thread explaining how to do it on this site.  Probably hard to find with a search.  ENC is close, but I think it is slightly different in terms of the holes.  Suggest the OP take the hints and experiment.  Halitech is right as far as breaking and I would think the threads are likely to wear quickly and/or get dirty sitting so proud.

[mayorblurps]

I think it looks neat and different but I prefer saddle stitching anyway. It's clean, strong as heck and just plain works. Now if I can figure out to use 2 color threads at once I'll be getting somewhere.  Thank you for the info!! 

[Halitech]

11 minutes ago, mayorblurps said:

I think it looks neat and different but I prefer saddle stitching anyway. It's clean, strong as heck and just plain works. Now if I can figure out to use 2 color threads at once I'll be getting somewhere.  Thank you for the info!! 

easy, take 2 pieces of thread, tie them together, get the knot in the middle of your leather, start stitching. splicing and finishing off, good luck :D

 

[JLSleather]

So, you WANT that?  Okay... each his own.

I wouldn't let 'em go on about how it's "theirs" or "proprietary".. I can show you that same 'stitch' in leather books from the 70's ... 

Some of the girls used to call it a "rope stitch", because it was done for ever using latigo lace along the edge of handbags (Tandy kits were ALL like that for a while).

The girl in the picture isn't anywhere near old enough to know anything about that.  But, the girl in the pic may have nothing to do with that cutesy shop.  30000 sales since 2013 shows how fast a fool and his money are parted

Oh, found it... these books (Vol 1 and 2) both show how to do that little thingie...

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1727-ideas-for-leather-projects-vol-1-1923.aspx

 

Edited December 22, 2016 by JLSleather

[Windrider30]

As stated its a simple back stitch which to be honest should never be used in leather work (in my opionion) UNLESS you are working with really thin leather, and hell even then I still use the saddle stitch just have to stop myself from pulling as hard as I do. I personally prefer the saddle stitch over anything because if you accidently cut one of the threads,no big deal as I used waxed thread just melt the part that broke and go along with your day. Same with a lockstitch do not like them because of how easy the project can break on you. And for something that is going to get a daily useage saddle stitch, which by the way if we can now claim a stitch as our "own brand" then all you best bugger off cuse I am calling the saddle stitch!!!, is way stronger and way smarter to use. and honestly it's just as fast as doing a back stitch

[Tugadude]

Nobody said propriety and I know she didn't invent it.  But that is this makers "thing".  So Even though I know how to make the stitch, it didn't seem appropriate to just tip the method immediately.  Better for the beginner to search and try things on his own.  Might learn a bunch in the process.  Or I could have said, first you.......I chose the former.

Now he seems to not be so enamored with it, so on it goes.

[Tugadude]

2 hours ago, mayorblurps said:

I think it looks neat and different but I prefer saddle stitching anyway. It's clean, strong as heck and just plain works. Now if I can figure out to use 2 color threads at once I'll be getting somewhere.  Thank you for the info!! 

Try this link...

 

[gmace99]

 

 

[TinkerTailor]

I do this stitch to join leather to canvas on one of my dopp kit designs: I find that single needle is much easier when dealing with several layers of canvas. Finding the hole in the leather from the backside with the needle can be a bear, so saddle stitch ends up way too slow. This photo is a few years old now.

 

 

Edited December 23, 2016 by TinkerTailor

[Boriqua]

I have used that same stitch as decoration on bag flaps .. its no great secret stitch. I dont know why saddle stitch would be overkill but there are all sorts of weird ideas and terms used on etsy so I dont get to hung up on it. It may be in my old stitching leather book but I am not sure. Its pretty and there is a place for everything.

[HENDREFORGAN]

On 12/21/2016 at 3:04 AM, Halitech said:

Saddle stitch is over kill because she probably can't figure it out. It's a backstitch as ENC said and has the same inherit flaw as machine stitching, cut one stitch and the whole thing unravels.

That is a point of view towards hand stitching with two needles I took myself for over 25 years . . until my age meant my thumbs could no longer act as "G clamps".  So I began to use sewing machines to take over and, today, I'll put work I've done on my Durkopp Adler 205-370 against examples of my hand saddle stitching and I'll be very happy with the result.  You know sewing machines use TWO threads too?

As for the work shown in the question I even wonder if it could be a single thread using a blunt needle through pricked out holes, unfortunately the Etsy pix do not show the stitching in enough detail for us Nerd's to fully figure it out.  One photo, https://img0.etsystatic.com/128/1/7763764/il_fullxfull.857546534_r8qj.jpg , might bear out my thoughts?  Top stitch shows the slant but bottom stitch the thread is running in a line.

I agree with Tugadud, it's that sellers signature and each of us must find our own, to simply copy others is no credit at all.

[Halitech]

5 hours ago, HENDREFORGAN said:

That is a point of view towards hand stitching with two needles I took myself for over 25 years . . until my age meant my thumbs could no longer act as "G clamps".  So I began to use sewing machines to take over and, today, I'll put work I've done on my Durkopp Adler 205-370 against examples of my hand saddle stitching and I'll be very happy with the result.  You know sewing machines use TWO threads too?

Thank you for that profound statement and educating me that sewing machines use 2 threads, I would never have guessed that despite having a sewing machine of my own. I'm glad that you are happy with your machine stitch compared to your saddle stitching, however, that  doesn't change the fact that you cut a thread on a sewing machine lock stitch, and it is going to unravel where the saddle stitch will not.

[JLSleather]

1 hour ago, Halitech said:

you cut a thread on a sewing machine lock stitch, and it is going to unravel where the saddle stitch will not.

This is a myth, and not even a particularly good one.  I have a copy of stohlman's sewing book around here somewhere, and all due respect to Mr. Stohlman,.. TRUTH is:

I have -- on more than one occasion -- made a mistake of some sort, and needed to remove the stitching put in by machine.  After cutting the top AND bottom threads, I can tell you that it does not "fall out" or "unravel".  Fact is, removing the thread -- though done by machine -- is a pain in the back, and requires that each stitch be "unlocked" .... not a 2-minute deal!

 

[HENDREFORGAN]

5 hours ago, JLSleather said:

This is a myth, and not even a particularly good one.  I have a copy of stohlman's sewing book around here somewhere, and all due respect to Mr. Stohlman,.. TRUTH is:

I have -- on more than one occasion -- made a mistake of some sort, and needed to remove the stitching put in by machine.  After cutting the top AND bottom threads, I can tell you that it does not "fall out" or "unravel".  Fact is, removing the thread -- though done by machine -- is a pain in the back, and requires that each stitch be "unlocked" .... not a 2-minute deal!

 

@JLSleatherI was going to comment having seen @Halitech leave rather silly sarcasm against my remark but I simply can't say better than you Sir, those are words based upon FACT and EXPERIENCE.  Hand stitcher's should never forget that the real work in machine stitching leather is to use the right machine, needle and thread BUT to make sure the machine is set up correctly.  If so then the passing point for the lock stitch is half-way through the hides being stitched.  Get the tension right and . . well . . @JLSleather said it all . . nuff said.

[AndersenLeather]

Of course it will not unravel 2 seconds after it has been cut. The question is how it will hold up to continious use. I still haven't seen anybody document this.  It should be pretty straight forward. 

[JLSleather]

4 hours ago, jonasbo said:

haven't seen anybody document this.  It should be pretty straight forward. 

Good for you!  Don't take anybody else's word for it -- TRY it and then you'll know.  More people should take the "show me" attitude (we'd have less 'knowing' and more "doing" for starters  )

 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

20 hours ago, JLSleather said:

This is a myth, and not even a particularly good one.  I have a copy of stohlman's sewing book around here somewhere, and all due respect to Mr. Stohlman,.. TRUTH is:

I have -- on more than one occasion -- made a mistake of some sort, and needed to remove the stitching put in by machine.  After cutting the top AND bottom threads, I can tell you that it does not "fall out" or "unravel".  Fact is, removing the thread -- though done by machine -- is a pain in the back, and requires that each stitch be "unlocked" .... not a 2-minute deal!

That, right there! 

 

15 hours ago, HENDREFORGAN said:

Hand stitcher's should never forget that the real work in machine stitching leather is to use the right machine, needle and thread BUT to make sure the machine is set up correctly.  If so then the passing point for the lock stitch is half-way through the hides being stitched.  Get the tension right and . . well . . @JLSleather said it all . . nuff said.

And that!

I'm going to, yet again, refer to equine equipment.  Cheap equipment sewn on a poorly set up machine will unravel in short order once a stitch is worn through, which will happen in fairly short order also, BECAUSE the machine was poorly set up and the leather not prepped properly.  Very rarely does a SINGLE stitch get cut through.  Normally what happens is several stitches wear through, and then hand stitching is going to come apart about as quickly as good machine stitching.  I've seen old harness tugs with the machine stitching (three rows) worn completely through from rubbing on either another part of the harness or the horse, and the three layers of leather have not yet started to separate because the wax and the thread that is still in the holes are still holding the layers together.