Members dikman Posted January 2, 2017 Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 Thanks Uwe, but it's all Greek to me . Looks like toluene and methanol. I was just curious as it took off the outer layer of paint without damaging the original. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members Constabulary Posted January 2, 2017 Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) What trip was I on - seems someone put weed in my x-mass cookies? Sure - the large bobbin usually is the the one with the 72 subclass I once have replaced some gears on a 29K73 I bought from CS but used and new gears did not play well together but it depends on the over all condition I think. Worked better when I replaced the small rack too. Dikman - usually the original (!) paint job on sewing machine is very resistant so when they are overpainted with some standard paint the chances are good the original paint survives when you use some sort of paint thinner. Edited January 2, 2017 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members jimi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 Hi dikman, there are a lot of these machines floating around this side, and prices are usually higher, 400 upwards and in abandoned condition. the solvent is just a cheap thinner for paint and varnish etc.. not really very strong compared to some paint strippers. Uwe has uploaded the spec sheet for this solvent, thanks uwe. when restoring antiques a while back i remember that the paint came off easier if the undercoat had sealed the wood. if it was paint on top varnish not sanded or paint on paint it would come off pretty good. the problem was paint on wood with no sealer underneath. in this case there is paint then finish or top coat so thats what has helped the paint to come off i reckon. it was not sanded underneath and it was on top of a thick clear coat. even then you have to go lightly otherwise you will take off the decals. thanks for the video Al, i have seen the darning machines before, it was just Wizs contraption that looked odd?? haha. well i will give the CS a try on this one folker. i have to get the feed motion bell crank the both piñons and large and small racks as these are shot! i did get a feed motion ring from them for the other 29 i have but it was just a little too thick, so when the head was screwed on it jammed! (if this happens to anyone else just put a piece of paper in between, its only about a decimal or two?) i will put up a couple of more pictures. most parts have been cleaned and some very lightly sanded with a very worn piece of fine sand paper, then(not sanded to death!) greased or oiled. the patch on the head which has a little light rust will get some steel wool to it then maybe a little clear coat or something to protect it. no shellac here Al because shellac is brown and will show up brown on the light blue paint. the goal on this one is to get it going again and not leaving it as a show piece. in some cases little is more?.... Quote
Members jimi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 so here are the parts for changing so far. as you can see the rack and piñons are very worn. the lifting lever shaft in the next picture is also worn but will see how that goes, i think it was loose when it came. the foot is worn also and the needle screw has the head broken in half. one half of the needle plate has been drilled also, as there is a very fine hole then on the other end a larger one. nothing too serious but will need cleaned up a little...... this little screw is still stuck as well as the two screws that hold the gearbox in..... not made in japan if anyone wanted to know... next will be the stand while waiting for the parts to come..... Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 2, 2017 Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) gears are definitely worn off . Yeah - patchers can be a money pit - I invested more money in restoring mine than in any other machine I have! But on the long view its good to have one of the later 29K models since parts are most likely available for ever due to the Chinese clones. Edited January 2, 2017 by Constabulary Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members jimi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 (edited) Also forgot to mention the feed motion bell crank lever in the first picture has a flat spot top and bottom...... the gearbox has lost some plating and will probably get a fine rub with some steel wool... or not??? now you can see the normal wear it has. until now two days of work, 3 rags, about that small bottle you saw before with solvent and a little grease and oil. parts will be about €90 foot not included as i think i have one somewhere. you could probably save a little if you got the bell crank lever welded.. so i might try that out while the new one comes to see if it could work if anyone is interested. the foot could also be filed or filled in whatever. i might try something like that to see?? Edited January 2, 2017 by jimi Quote
Members jimi Posted January 2, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 Yeah, well lets see what the new parts are like and hopefully they will fit well. i think they would make more money selling the older style piñons and racks because there is a lot more of them out there compared the newer ones! Quote
Members Constabulary Posted January 2, 2017 Members Report Posted January 2, 2017 The tip of the bell crank lever has approx a 5mm diameter when new. Maybe the newer 29K´s are still in use and pop up later on the market - who knows. Meanwhile my 29K71 produces approx 4.8 - 4.9 mm long stitches - can´t be much better. I figured when I put the stich lenght adjuster too deep (when the gib touches the foot) the stitches become slightly shorter again. So the longest stitch really is when the adjuster is just below the 5 mark on the BCL and have set it to the highest foot lift. That maybe be different on other machines - patchers sometimes can be tricky. Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Yetibelle Posted January 3, 2017 Members Report Posted January 3, 2017 Must be 29k restore time, I just restored a 29k51 over the weekend. I was putting the head back together and noticed that side thumb screw. Any idea what that is for? I see it missing on Wiz's machine so I'm sure its not that important. Quote One day I hope to learn how to sew..... Singer 111W155 - Singer 29-4 - Singer 78-1 - Singer 7-31 - Singer 109w100 - Singer 46W-SV-16 - Adler 20-19 - Cowboy CB-4500
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