Screw and upper tension guide release

[RockyAussie]

Just curious if you are using left twist thread. The picture is not clear enough to make out.

[Uwe]

That 1508 has the exact same tension unit as your 562 - it won't solve your slippery thread problems.

I'd experiment with thread path variations before giving up on the 562 and throwing money at something essentially identical.

This is how you normally thread the tension unit:

 

If your thread is too slippery to stay between the tension discs you can try this variation, looping the thread around the pin that keeps the tension discs from spinning:

 

If that still doesn't work you can rotate the thread guide down (loosen set screw, rotate, tighten) to bring the incoming thread closer and lower to the tension discs:

If your thread is still popping out from between the tension discs, then there's something else going on. Take the tensions discs out and inspect them . They should be flat on the inner part and only have and flare/curve on outer edge. 

 

Edited January 4, 2017 by Uwe

[RockyAussie]

Looks like Uwe just beat me but here see the link of the instruction manual where it shows the 3 part of threading. I must say that the looseness of thread before the tension disks looks quite bad.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/790496/Juki-Lu-562.html?page=8#manual

[brmax]

I was remembering you mentioned having to crank down the top tension, it looks pretty stout so for sure somethings going on in that area.

The solarfix is a ptfe, I realized also it feels tight in the tensioner top especially, and this stuff feels rough though and a design thing they may have picked up on to improve it. It was all really new to me and in 12 not really anything except tenara with very few people starting to use it that I heard in the marine trades.  With sunbrella honestly I don't see a need for 138, I wasn't saying anything because of sails and don't have a clue there, so with regular stuff I have to lean back and remember what I heard earlier on and that most pro's kept the use of 138 primarily because of the wear of other threads in the marine, salt and sun. When they started using the ptfe for boats or awnings they dropped to 92 size because the strength was there that they needed and not the issues from wear in sun.

But if it helps later on if you get some 92 size I use 19 needle and know a few to use 18 doing straights but I tried and just could pull it off consistent a mis here n there on the 08 at the time and so bumped up to 19. And try to keep everything same same for that stuff anywho.  Btw I can imagine the 138 Tenara thread size your using should I think use a 21-22 needle at least similar to poly or nylon eh?, ya have to help me understand that stuff a bit more.

Floyd

[Uwe]

By the way, the pin that goes through the machine to push the tension discs apart when you lift the foot is really optional and more of a convenience feature. The tension release pin should have no effect while sewing - in fact it shouldn't even be touching the back of the tension unit while sewing. Most machines sew just fine with that pin removed. The tension release pin just makes it easier to remove the material when you stop sewing, because you're not yanking on the thread while it's still has tension applied to it. 

[brmax]

That's a great point Uwe, and so must be few hangups in that mechanical lever stuff.

Floyd

[Uwe]

Sometimes that big tension release pin is just worn at the tips and not long enough anymore. I've made my own replacement pins from piano wire of same thickness and rounding/polishing both ends - worked beautifully.  That pin should slide through the body front to back very easily.

There's also a teeny-tiny pin inside the post that holds the tension discs. It often gets lost when people disassemble the tension unit. That pin is so tiny you hardly notice it when it makes its escape. Without that tiny pin, the tension release will not work at all.

The two tension disks are also not identical. One has a hole in the center, the other has a hole with a bar across the center. That center bar is what the tiny pin pushes against to separate the tension disks. If the disks are reversed, or both have a hole, or both have a bar, tension release will also not work at all.

[mixmkr]

you guys are a big help... will sleep on it for now.  Uwe...I have rotated my 3 hole threader, 90 degrees like you've said.   That helped, but the threader has a flat side, so the set screw doesn't really like trying to hold it other than a vertical position.  I'll keep experimenting.  Also realize the auto tensioner is just for pulling material out too.   Yeah...a conveinence.

Floyd...yeah...92 is probably ok, but 138 is a preference. ...ONLY because I see it a lot from other canvas guys.

and yes...left twist thread for sure... Don't think I own anything else except some mono or nylon junk.

 

I've learned a lot today... you guys are my only advice and what I can read... so it gets frustrating sometimes and I tinker more than I sew.  Need to make that a much better ratio

[dikman]

You could always file another flat on the threader shaft to secure it in a different position.