Wanted: Pfaff 595 needle plate

[Oakley]

Hello, can somebody help me. I need a needle plate for a Pfaff 595 (post bed machine). If somebody knows a source with a quite reasonable price I would be thankful.

 

Regards

  Oakley

[Constabulary]

I´d check with RIMGM.de or Sieck.de or wdn.de f.i. They may not have them online but maybe can order them. If not possible you can try to hard solder the plate (in worst case)

[shoepatcher]

That needle plate is  generic if I am not mistaken by the number on the back.  Here in the states, I think you can get generic ones from Henderson Sewing in Alabama and Bill's Sewing in North Carolina.  Both companies have web sites.  As to Europe,  Constabulary has some contact info above.  There are generic plates out there and they should not be to bad in price.  If an OEM part from Pfaff, yes it will be expensive.  The throat plate is the same on a Pfaff 595 as well.

glenn

[brmax]

Maybe if after them checks, possibly Trox also has a clue over the pond there for parts. possibly a 195 the same, as some pics look similar. ref

good luck

Floyd

[Uwe]

A new part (Pfaff # 91-048319-04/002) will cost you around $350-$400 (OUCH!) based on pricing info from my sources here in the U.S. Generic vs. OEM pricing is very close, too.

This would be a good time to read up on hard soldering, brazing, silver soldering etc. Looks like a clean break and should be repairable.

The part is listed on page 4 of the Pfaff 595 Unterklassen-Ausstattung document.

Edited January 6, 2017 by Uwe
added link to subclass doc

[brmax]

Good tip there Uwe

That's a number that came up on a site I checked with, yet there was no photo. The price was very similar! the ironic thing is myself initially reading the top post, I thought that is in no way worth the time welding, well I would have to say outloud. It is now even if a pain or like here 12 degrees outside.

good day there

Floyd

[mixmkr]

That price is yowza!!    A machine shop could fabricate one for less, I'd think too.

[Oakley]

Thank you for your help. The shops I found who can order the original part are stunningly expensive like Uwe wrote. I asked somebody who welds and solders but he wasn't sure if it would work because it could be hardened material. A used part in working condition would be fine, too. 

[Constabulary]

I have hard soldered some needle plates even with propan / butan. Some with broke or worn needle holes some with broken off bits. I would not worry too much. Yours has clean brake lines and I´m sure it can be done. If you want to use the machine think you do not have many option beside buying a new needle plate (or machine...?)

Edited January 7, 2017 by Constabulary

[brmax]

One thing to be grateful of is that the welder is correct and further is the metal is quality steel so any welding they can do is fine I think. The cost for a shop to do this can be expensive also, their machines aren't free either!. But if the environment of people is like around here it can be done without to much, I just wanted to mention that as there are many that hobby or do Pro work in a small settings as we might and respectfully require our funds in trade.

I would take some measure of the areas that would be welded so afterwards a dremel can dress / grind the final parts as required. I don't have a tig so this would get the typical already mig loaded 7018 and do some minor prep work, angle grinding the break joints. It ust depends what sources are available to repair this, I have some gas welding equipment but I think with some well placed tac welds with a mig, then this would be ready for the dremel, The prior measure would be an important step to maintain spec clearance. To calmly close all this for a pro shop to do would be tiny meticulous out of the norm and something one could further pursue say with a gunsmith, some having a tig welder but again cost could be as much maybe more than new.

Hope to see it sewing soon

good day there

Floyd

[Uwe]

In my experience welding can be very tricky and requires rather expensive gear. You don't really want to melt the part, which will definitely affect its hardness or any tempering. Personally I found it much easier to do silver soldering. 

I made some custom binder parts a while ago and used silver solder to connect the pieces. The best silver solder option I've come across on this side of the pond is called Stay Brite silver solder and the Stay Clean flux liquid. I bought mine at the local heating and refrigeration supply store. I don't know if this brand is available in Europe. The nice thing about this particular silver solder is that it melts at a comparatively low 430˚F (221˚C), which is well below the temperature that would affect hardness or tempering treatments of any metal part you're repairing. 

Practice on some other parts first. Clean the parts to be repaired with some acetone, then hold the part in a metal clamp and put the broken part in place. Heat the whole thing up with a cheap torch like a propane torch for making plumbing repairs. Drip some flux liquid on the cracks and heat it to just above the melting point of the silver solder. Remove the flame and touch the silver solder wire to the cracks. The hot metal part should melt the silver solder as it touches and suck it into the crack by capillary action.

Sounds like a good candidate for a demo video.

Edited January 7, 2017 by Uwe

[gottaknow]

If it were me, I'd braze it using an 000 tip. Much stronger than silver solder, less heat required than welding. No matter the repair method, it will need to be re-hardened as the heat will anneal it. Have fun!

Regards, Eric