Moving up from fabric to leather!

[Dakotanorth]

Hello everyone,

First off thank you for letting me join this forum.  I've read several posts while I was still a guest, and I see there is some great talent and amazing wisdom here.

I've made clothing off and on for several years now, but I've been curious about working in leather.  I think I'm ready to take the plunge.

Ultimately, I would like to learn how to make leather jackets.  A-2's come to mind, right from the start.

So, I have questions!  First off, I've read the threads about machines.  It looks like a Consew 206RB would be a great machine to land.  But I have to ask; can someone make a leather jacket with ONE machine?

Granted I have home units for clothing- I could assemble linings for leather jackets, then use an industrial unit to build the jacket and install the lining.  But what about tight areas like knit cuffs?  Laying rounded shapes on a flatbed machine is tough with wool, but can it even be done with leather?

Then, the big hurdle is, I tend to work by trial and error in fabric.  Obviously you can do this; it's fabric.  I know you can't with leather.  So, I need to learn how to install a zipper correctly, the first time.  And just in general, the process of assembling a jacket without error.

Any help or insight would be great.  Thank you!

[bikermutt07]

Welcome to the forum.

I can't answer all your machine questions, but here goes......

Lots of these guys have more than one machine.

I believe there are zipper threads pinned in the how do I do that section.

Leather, like fabric, is trial and error.

You will make mistakes, just no way around that.

The only suggestion I have for that is to make a practice jacket first out of fabric.

We all have our experience hiding in a drawer or box somewhere. I have more experience pieces then I have finished products. Ha, thank goodness I'm just a hobby guy.

[Dakotanorth]

Thanks Bikermutt07,

I live in a tiny apartment, so multiple machines could be a problem!  I'm thinking, maybe a home unit could do the cuffs since it's one layer of leather and a few layers of wool/cotton/etc.

I will keep reading posts on here, and learn all I can.  I know there are a few books still in print that would help too.

 

[Mattsbagger]

Trial and error is about the only way with leather too. Good luck. I find I just make a lot of stuff for the wife and kids.lol

[Dakotanorth]

Thanks Mattsbagger, it seems like I just have to jump in!

Luckily there are a few books still available that focus on leather working.  It wouldn't hurt to pick one up while I am hunting for a machine.

 

[LumpenDoodle2]

Hi, having moved from fabric to leather myself, I would definately say that leather is a bit more unforgiving.   It can feel similar to sewing a satin (but a very thick satin), as every mistake shows, and it can creep about under the presser foot, so a walking foot of any kind does make life easier.

It's also easier to glue, or use double sided tape to keep layers under control, and yes, a flatbed can be awkward, but depending on the thickness and tightness of the cuff, not impossible.

I've used a domestic sewing machine on thin leather in the past, and it let me shape the shoulders, etc fine, but it will kill a modern domestic machine fairly quickly, and I've also only used a flatbed (and swore a lot).

But as they say, any old port in a storm, and you can make almost anything work, if space/money/resources are limited.  Best compromise to me would be a cylinder arm, with a flat bed conversion attachment, homemade or bought.

oh, and yes, grab the leather off an old sofa to practice with.

[Northmount]

On 2017-01-06 at 7:05 PM, Dakotanorth said:

Hello everyone,

First off thank you for letting me join this forum.  I've read several posts while I was still a guest, and I see there is some great talent and amazing wisdom here.

I've made clothing off and on for several years now, but I've been curious about working in leather.  I think I'm ready to take the plunge.

Ultimately, I would like to learn how to make leather jackets.  A-2's come to mind, right from the start.

So, I have questions!  First off, I've read the threads about machines.  It looks like a Consew 206RB would be a great machine to land.  But I have to ask; can someone make a leather jacket with ONE machine?

Granted I have home units for clothing- I could assemble linings for leather jackets, then use an industrial unit to build the jacket and install the lining.  But what about tight areas like knit cuffs?  Laying rounded shapes on a flatbed machine is tough with wool, but can it even be done with leather?

Then, the big hurdle is, I tend to work by trial and error in fabric.  Obviously you can do this; it's fabric.  I know you can't with leather.  So, I need to learn how to install a zipper correctly, the first time.  And just in general, the process of assembling a jacket without error.

Any help or insight would be great.  Thank you!

Since this seems more related to leather sewing machines, I have moved it there so hopefully you will find even more answers and comments.

Tom

[Dakotanorth]

Thank you Tom!

[Uwe]

I'll vote for the triple-feed cylinder arm plus flatbed attachment recommendation, especially if you have limited space. It's the most versatile single-machine solution in my mind. Buy new if you can afford it. Candidates are Juki LS-341 or 1341, Adler 69, 169, or 269, Pfaff 335 or 345, TechSew 2750, among others. I make and sell a few flatbed attachments on Ebay. 

Edited January 9, 2017 by Uwe

[Yetibelle]

Tricky - I suspect if you can already make a non-leather jacket on a flatbed machine, then you just need a good walking foot machine to sew through the leather.  In the video below they appear to make the whole jacket with flatbed machines. Plus I see a few vintage machines in there,  I think it all depends on how you design your jacket pattern. 

 

 

[Dakotanorth]

Uwe- thank you for the list!  I think you're right- a cylinder arm that has a slip-on bed would be a great combo to buy.

Yetibelle- sweet!  That video shows me a LOT of details about the construction methods and sequence.

This looks more exciting every day....

 

[Colt W Knight]

I would also add that the Consew 227R would be a great machine. It is the cylinder arm equivalent of the 206. I have a 206, and it has been a great machine, but I can tell you that I wish I had a cylinder arm. I have screwed up several pieces trying manipulate corners and seems around on the flatbed that would have been a walk in the park on a cylinder arm. 

 

[SolarLeatherMachines]

A 227r style machine or a 335 style machine would work well.  

[Dakotanorth]

Thanks again everyone.

I see a Consew 223 freearm unit for sale right here in LA- is that a good one too?

(It's $1000 mind you.)

 

[Uwe]

If you have a grand to spend, I'd go look at the Pfaff 345 for sale in Lake Elsinore You'll get triple feed with full feed dog motion, big bobbin, reverse, seriously good engineering and manufacturing quality. Parts like throat plates and feet are available from good quality aftermarket maker like Kwok Hing and won't cost a fortune. 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2017 by Uwe

[Dakotanorth]

I saw that one too.  I like the "I can't go any lower so don't ask" comment, even though it's been on CL for a few weeks now. 

Then again, there's this one with "Make me an offer" on it....

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/app/5950009767.html

Edited January 10, 2017 by Dakotanorth
continue discussion

[Uwe]

That Juki LS-341N is a nice machine! It's one of my favorite medium duty cylinder arm designs, actually ( I have a Juki LS-341 - no "N").

Get the best machine you can afford. OEM brands generally hold their value better than clones. The LS-341 class of machines is next on my list for developing a flatbed attachment.

[Dakotanorth]

Thanks again Uwe!

So, there' a Brother LS3-C51 for sale, close to me.  It sound solid, for $800.

Would this work?  Again, my goal is to make leather jackets, including (hopefully) horsehide jackets.  Some of those seams can be 4 or 6 layers thick when they intersect.

 

[Uwe]

That Brother  LS3-C51 has come up in a different topic just recently. You may not be the only one contemplating that machine. 

The Brother  LS3-C51 appears to be re-badged Seiko LSC-8B-2 from the looks of it. Seiko makes great machines, sold under several brands. Made-in-Japan is a good thing (but not as good as Made-in-Germany when engineers and well-paid factory workers ruled.)

It probably would do just fine for what you're trying to do. But there are no guarantees. I've never touched a Brother LS3-C51 myself - I'm just going by specs and some educated guesses based on similar machines I've worked on. Personally, I'm still rooting the for the Pfaff 345.

Take some samples of the materials you're intending to sew and go try it out. It's the best way to get a sense if a machine is comfortable or struggling, or if it's too ugly to have a picture included in the CL ad. 

 

Edited January 13, 2017 by Uwe

[SueC56]

Uwe, What is the difference between the LS-341 and LS-341N?  I've been looking but haven't found that info yet.

Thanks

 

Sue

[SueC56]

I may have answered my own question.  Does the N refer to a larger capacity hook?  Any other important differences?  I may have a lead on a used Juki 341, which is why I'm asking.

 

Thanks