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chasman52

PFAFF1445 Spec's

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I've got a line on a PFAFF1445 here in Miami for $400. I've done a search here and Google.

From what I've seen these are strong machines, but parts can be hard to find and expensive.

Still I couldn't find anything but a service manual.

I'm concerned it won't use a heavy enough thread to make totes, Belts and Holsters.

I've never owned an industrial machine. Any tips on how to judge a machine to purchase?

 

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I thought this is a great point to consider at the start!, not always the case. So if you have a thread size in mind or have seen some at the stores that's way ahead. 

In the machine find you mentioned I have heard some model types; like H3 or H4 and others im not recalling. This is something you will want to look into for your benefit, someone will give some tips to finding or figure what the machine is on this specifically.

Here's a small tip I think? anyway, many threads can be put through the material but to get them in tension/tight it can take some heavy tension springs. Most of these are simply heavier on bigger machines for efficiency so thread can do more than just lay on top of material and so actually secure. I think with some colored thread this same "pop" could be had within a capable size for the machine. Now as in the stickies above, when considering thread for a "duty holster" thread size should be more understood and a lot of that is referenced in them articles.

It may be good to consider 138 at the upper/top level in that machine, some might be able to run 207 on the top only side. This is for sure the forum site that has now or had persons doing it if possible and their experience is seriously needed here.

Floyd

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Thanks Brmax, I still cannot find an owners manual so I can be sure to thread it properly

anybody got a soft copy of an instruction manual.?

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So it sounds like you picked it up and brought it to the shop. Cool!

Here's is a link to a previous discussion here and worth checking out.

Floyd

 

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I did pick it up $355.00 and it is mine. I have a few problems though. I've taken some pictures of the bobbin area.

Is this a PFAFF bobbin assembly, cause I can't find anywhere to adjust bottom tension on it. I think sumin's missing.

 

20170213_143622.thumb.jpg.459a9eb6e91bbca95249efa4789b47be.jpg

 

Edited by chasman52
photos too big/small

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You should buy hot wings and refreshments, Cheers

Im not sure which photo you mean but the first photo with the hemostats shows the hook and the bobbin case in with the bobbin tensioner on the operator side, and very fragile. Second photo may have a knob missing off the tension assembly. Hard to tell

Take the pulley belt off and turn it by hand and monitor the parts moving is a bit easier, and safer.

keep us posted

Floyd

Edited by brmax

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Those pictures are smaller than the bobbin itself! I can't see much of anything. When re-sizing a picture, aim for a pixel count of around 1000 in the long dimension.

 

Edited by Uwe

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The hook does not look like a Pfaff hook for that machine. The original would have a bobbin cap. A hook from a different machine may not work at all. 

The Pfaff 1445 Parts Manual will be a good reference for finding out which parts may be missing or wrong. 

Your hook and bobbin case/cap should like similar to this:

IMG_7334.JPG

Edited by Uwe

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I made the pic's 1000 Horz. That's better, Thanks

I totally agree that the parts manual shows a different part

 

 

20170213_144646.jpg

Edited by chasman52

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It's hard to tell, but the machine looks a bit incomplete and slightly messed up. There may be a reason it was so cheap.

This machine isn't even close to worry about the bobbin thread tension. It's like worrying about tire pressure when you're missing the steering wheel and seats in your car. 

Post a couple of pictures of the head from different angles and underneath. We may be able to figure what you're missing or what needs fixing.

Don't hook up a motor until you can hand turn perfect stitches. A lot of damage can be caused under motor power if parts are missing or wrong.

Edited by Uwe

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Maybe your hook is correct after all. This picture from MooseTrading shows details and (slightly wrong, but workable) top threading path (visit http://www.moosetrading.com/sites/default/files/products/img_20150310_131615127.jpg for high-resolutuion image) 

I need to make one of those cool see-through slide covers!

 

img_20150310_131615127.jpg

 

Edited by Uwe

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7 hours ago, Uwe said:

Maybe your hook is correct after all. This picture from MooseTrading shows details and (slightly wrong, but workable) top threading path (visit http://www.moosetrading.com/sites/default/files/products/img_20150310_131615127.jpg for high-resolutuion image) 

I need to make one of those cool see-through slide covers!

 

img_20150310_131615127.jpg

 

I see what you mean. I just have to solve how to make bobbin tension. I ran it unpowered, and it went fine. So, I turned it on unthreaded and it'll punch through some veg tan scrap. It's just so darn fast I can't control it.

I can literally sew ( punch holes in)by hand crank 8 oz. veg. I got a users manual and the service manual now.

Here's my list of what I can do. Any suggestions appreciated ?

1.How to thread bobbin

2.how to adjust bobbin tension if necessary

3. call Denise at PFAFF to get parts to complete front/top tension assembly

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Most hooks of that style have a tension spring that can be adjusted. The bobbin usually spins counter-clockwise. The thread gets pulled through the slot in the bobbin case and under the blade of the tension spring. The thread needs to emerge from under the tip of the tension spring. 

The bobbin case tension spring has two screws, one fixed and one for adjusting tension. An eyeglass repair screwdriver from the drug store works well for working on these tiny screws. Bobbin tension should be very light - just barely noticeable when pulling out the thread with your fingers. 

 

Screen Shot 2017-02-14 at 9.14.15 AM.png

Edited by Uwe

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First with the photo Uwe is showing placing a drop or two of oil at the location where the bobbin carrier rides in the hook is a good first.

Without knowing yet the thread age we will try to assume its ok, the size would be great also if labeled. Reason im heading this direction is we need some more base observations with your help before "i should say" put the tights on any bolts n screws.

 If it were me i would do as above and put thread thru feed dog/needle slot and check the thread tension through that route. Then if it was able to drop with (abstract yes) 28 grams tied to it, leave it alone for now.  Or until some stitching on some material is discussed with some pics possibly. I would use some textiles or something cheaper than leather for all this checking.

The oiling of all them parts can be a task for sure, it all finally goes to a catch pan so stock up.

good day there

Floyd

 

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3 minutes ago, brmax said:

First with the photo Uwe is showing placing a drop or two of oil at the location where the bobbin carrier rides in the hook is a good first.

Without knowing yet the thread age we will try to assume its ok, the size would be great also if labeled. Reason im heading this direction is we need some more base observations with your help before "i should say" put the tights on any bolts n screws.

 If it were me i would do as above and put thread thru feed dog/needle slot and check the thread tension through that route. Then if it was able to drop with (abstract yes) 28 grams tied to it, leave it alone for now.  Or until some stitching on some material is discussed with some pics possibly. I would use some textiles or something cheaper than leather for all this checking.

The oiling of all them parts can be a task for sure, it all finally goes to a catch pan so stock up.

good day there

Floyd

 

I have no idea how old the thread  "came with the machine is, but it smells.lol  Stinks actually!

The machine was in an airplane hanger for years. it was filthy, but cleaned up nice

I didn't consider that , but now that you mention it. I agree totally, I won't make any adjustments based on this old thread

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Good news today, The bobbin carriage works. I used UWE's example to figure it out. Thank u UWE!!

You can see how it uses a notch in the bobbin's lockdown, and the bobbin's tension leaf spring is where it is normally.

I was able to thread the machine of a sorts and without power made a few stitches. As it's Valentine day I'm done for the day.

Tomorrow'll try to run it under power with some heavy cloth

20170214_182529.jpg

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Ya thats a great fix, I see now. The carriage tab is suppose to fit in the feed dog cover plate. good eye!

Keep us posted on the new progress, always curious.

good day

Floyd

 

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My desktop keyboard died. Just had to post this,cause it's starting to work. Please look at Mooselodge .jpg, and view the needle guide.  Mine is the same,but I  think it may be wrong. Should guide above needle be left of the needle center?

Veg. Leather breaks top thread, but 4 layers denim is no prob.

22/140 134/135 reg needle w/ tex90 nylon.

20170215_222120.jpg

Edited by chasman52
Edito

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 Figure #2 and #3 it shows the final guide at the left.

 

 

My question is" can I rotate the shaft to look like this?

Edited by chasman52
can't post the inst.manual

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The 92 thread or T90 should be fine with that big of a needle 22 i would think.

On the guide i agree that they work best if left of center front as the needle has provisions for the thread that left side.

The sewing above is a start, and i feel for ya on the computer break down thats always a major problem. good luck with it

Floyd

 

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3 hours ago, brmax said:

The 92 thread or T90 should be fine with that big of a needle 22 i would think.

On the guide i agree that they work best if left of center front as the needle has provisions for the thread that left side.

The sewing above is a start, and i feel for ya on the computer break down thats always a major problem. good luck with it

Floyd

 

I just have to figure out how to rotate the whole rod. Do you think I can turn it by loosening the same clamp that adjusts the needle height?

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I would not bother with that, as its probably as manufactured, all here are front mounted except the big one and its thread comes from the side. So not likely the issue, i have found most time the needle tip is ever so trashed on the tip and tearing thread. This likely comes from debris in material, leather, or just bending slightly going through material and hitting the feed dog a time or two in a twist.

Floyd

Edited by brmax

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I know very (Very) little about this Pfaff model, but this is the correct hook, see attached, and part of this is from the parts book linked here.

1445Hook.jpg

9117644091-Hook-1445.jpg

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I have a Pfaff 1445. It's a beast of a machine. You can turn down the speed on the motor. on the side you should see a dial that will control the speed.

I like this machine. I use it as a backup for my Pfaff 1245. Mostly using it for stay stitches on my waxed canvas bags. It can sew through a TON of material. It's basically a 1245 built for the production floor - they wanted a system that could run quick without overheating. They stopped making them because the market wasn't sustaining.

I can sew 3/8" of leather on it. Your thread may be breaking because of the tension when you are running through the leather. A size 22 needle is more than enough for T90. I think I'm using a 19.

Do you have any other issues you are looking for help on? Would love to get a solid document online with everything we can muster about this machine. Finding any details about it is a real pain in the neck.

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Imstephenjones, I didn't know clutch motors could come with speed controllers built in. I'll look for it when I get home.

 

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