Straight line hand sewing

[billybopp]

I'm about to start a new project, and need to make some lines of stitching that are very straight or close to.  I don't have a heavy duty sewing machine, so hand stitching is the only option.  The effect I'm looking for is like pin-striping.  Any thoughts or advice??

Thanks in advance

Bill

[bikermutt07]

Running lockstitch?

[JLSleather]

Not sure how stitching is like pinstriping, but you certainly can hand sew straight stitches.  It's the only kind I sew (I always thought that angled stuff looked like maybe should be on the trim on some girl's clothes).

WIthout going through the whole thing, stohlman covered that extensively.

Edited February 28, 2017 by JLSleather

[johnv474]

To get very straight lines of stitching, here is one way:  lay your leather on the worktable.  If it is stretchy leather, put some masking tape on the back so it doesn't move around on you. Slightly dampen or use saddle soap to soften it. Using a scratch awl, poke a small hole at the beginning and end of where you want to stitch.  Using a ruler, pull the scratch awl along the ruler to draw a straight line between the holes.  Use a stitching chisel/pricking iron to mark/make your holes, being careful to center the chisel/iron on the line you drew.  When advancing the chisel/iron, insert it into the last TWO holes you previously made in order the keep it straighter.  Continue until you reach the other end of the line.

 

Alternative to chisel/iron, use a stitch marker wheel/overstitch wheel and run it carefully along the ruler.  Without starting to sew, put scrap leather or cork behind the leather and push your sewing awl vertically through each hole, being very careful to keep it vertical.  Continue from one end of the line to the other.  You may need to still use your awl during the actual sewing to re-open the holes, but this will help you keep the stitch lines straight front and back.

[billybopp]

22 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

Running lockstitch?

That crossed my mind - I'm thinking in combination with a diamond awl leaned back to 90 degrees rather than the usual 45 ..

22 hours ago, JLSleather said:

Not sure how stitching is like pinstriping, but you certainly can hand sew straight stitches.  It's the only kind I sew (I always thought that angled stuff looked like maybe should be on the trim on some girl's clothes).

WIthout going through the whole thing, stohlman covered that extensively.

For my part, I like the look of a slanted stitch on lots of things, but for this it won't look right.  Stohlman's method uses a stitch groove, which also won't work for what I'm trying to do - but I may try it to see.

20 hours ago, johnv474 said:

To get very straight lines of stitching, here is one way:  lay your leather on the worktable.  If it is stretchy leather, put some masking tape on the back so it doesn't move around on you. Slightly dampen or use saddle soap to soften it. Using a scratch awl, poke a small hole at the beginning and end of where you want to stitch.  Using a ruler, pull the scratch awl along the ruler to draw a straight line between the holes.  Use a stitching chisel/pricking iron to mark/make your holes, being careful to center the chisel/iron on the line you drew.  When advancing the chisel/iron, insert it into the last TWO holes you previously made in order the keep it straighter.  Continue until you reach the other end of the line.

 

Alternative to chisel/iron, use a stitch marker wheel/overstitch wheel and run it carefully along the ruler.  Without starting to sew, put scrap leather or cork behind the leather and push your sewing awl vertically through each hole, being very careful to keep it vertical.  Continue from one end of the line to the other.  You may need to still use your awl during the actual sewing to re-open the holes, but this will help you keep the stitch lines straight front and back.

I've got a pretty good handle on getting a nice straight run of stitches. The description of what I'm looking for isn't as clear as it could be.   The stitches between holes should look more like this ----- than like this ///// for the effect I'm going after.

 

Thank you all for your thoughts and advice, It's appreciated.

Bill

[JLSleather]

47 minutes ago, billybopp said:

The stitches between holes should look more like this ----- than like this ///// for the effect I'm going after.

You can do that with or without a groove.  I usually use a creased line, personally   Long as the left thread is going on the same side of the right thread - all the time -- you'll get  -------- stitches.  Using a diamond awl blade (i hate punches) with the flat side parallel to the edge of the leather.

 

[Boriqua]

A groove will straighten out the stitching but if a groove is not desirable I would probably think about using my scratch  awl to make my holes and then there is a braiding technique called stair step applique with one thong but it is transferable to a stitch with thread. Im sorry but I lost my scrap piece with the stitch on it to show you. What is nice when you say pinstrip is that this stitch since it overlaps kind of makes for really smooth looking turns. If you cant find anything on google about it I am sure I can throw something together quick if it is of interest.

 

edited to add

Found this pic. This gentleman used some fairly large holes, wide spacing and a heavy thread but its a good indication of a stairstep. His really shows the stitch nice but if you decrease the spacing it will be almost seemless. I have done it where it overlaps creating the zigzag like in his piece but you can also arrange the threads next to each other. Smaller holes and a finer thread and you would have trouble noticing it isnt one long straight run. Just a thought?

 

Edited March 1, 2017 by Boriqua
add new info

[Jack142]

I use my wing divider, and usually mark a straight line about 1/8 inch in from the edge. Then I take my wing divider and mark my holes at about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart. Just go from one hole marking to the next, real simple and accurate. My next step is to take a awl that I modified to get a good punch mark through the holes.  The awl was put on my grinder and I ground it about 1 inch up the awl,   making a narrow ( thin ) awl.  The awl is the same diameter up that one inch.   This is  important ,  you need to get the same size hole,  not wide on top and narrow on the bottom.

( I hope I am making sense )

My last step is to put a tiny drill bit in my dremel tool and drill the holes clean, straight and even.

from there is a saddle stitch,   it  might seem like a lot of work but its pretty fast and the holes come out even and clean

I hope you can see my stitches in this card wallet

Edited March 1, 2017 by Jack142
picture

[VMTinajero]

If you use a diamond awl make sure your holes are all parallel to each other, or else you won't get that nice straight line...

[YinTx]

Just thought I'd chime in here as I had to make some straight stitching for a repair I did to a Louis Vuitton purse.  Here is an image to show the progress.  As you can see, I used the holes already present in the binding leather, as the client wanted to retain the original piece.  They are oriented in line with the stitch, - - - - - -.  I used a standard saddle stitch, without casting.  Make sure not to pull up or down when tensioning the stitch.  I hope this helps.

YinTx

[billybopp]

That'll probably do what I need!  Thanks.

[Stetson912]

@Boriqua that looks very nice. I never thought of doing the stairs two with thread for stitching before. It looks real nice 

Billybopp, Sounds like everyone already helped you out with good info. I look forward to seeing what you make with the technique