bikermutt07 Posted March 5, 2017 Report Posted March 5, 2017 Sorry about the link earlier. Let's try this one.... http://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/videos.htm Just scroll down the page. He has two on stitching. He is a little wordy but I find his terminology easier for me then Nigel's. Any technique you try will take some practice. It's just one of the many things in leather work that takes time to develop. When it comes to finer leather working I think of it like this..... In the world of gun collector values, 95% of the value is in the last 5%. It has to be in that good of condition to bring top dollar. Anything that is between 95 and 100% condition will bring the best collectors to the table. Anything below 95% is pretty much just a gun. I can't achieve close to 80% yet. I make functional stuff that will last and look decent, but it is nowhere near premium. It's just the most fun frustration a person can wish on themselves. Enjoy yourself. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members battlemunky Posted March 5, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 5, 2017 (edited) I found a video Nigel Armitage put together that shows how to prevent my issue. He makes it look simple and isn't stitching on a curve but the principle is the same. Link to the vid: Edited March 5, 2017 by battlemunky Quote
Members Mattsbagger Posted March 5, 2017 Members Report Posted March 5, 2017 Yep he has some good videos. He is also on here as Dangerous Beans. You can send message if have any questions. He also has classes if you can get to England. Quote
Members plinkercases Posted March 6, 2017 Members Report Posted March 6, 2017 Lots of different approaches and you can try them all to find out what works for you. I have always worked the way Stohlman set out in his books (finish the edge, groove front and back lightly, overstitch wheel to mark spacing, hand awl) and have been happy all along with all thicknesses I work with. For the blind side unless you punch both sides as some do I target line or groove helps me. but make both the front and back lines when the edge is done. Then it is a matter of keeping the work held firm in a pony, horse, vice as the case may be and working on consistency with the awl angles On my current projects I have just started using the stitching chisels on a light guide line punching just into the first layer and I am still using the hand awl.. Kind of a hybrid I guess as I just like the awl work for some reason still - mind you I am not in a production time=money deal here. Next I will try punching the chisel all the way through the layers but assembled not before. In almost all cases the basic principle is to mark or groove a guide both sides after gluing and the edges are finished (i.e. evened out and rounded/burnished first pass) and then use some mechanism to mark or pound at a consistent spacing and control the awl or chisels. and no matter what tools or process.. practice, practice, practice,... and have fun and find what you are successful with and that is your way. Quote "Oh my God....I beseech thee grant me the grace to remain in Thy Presence; and to this end do Thou prosper me with Thy assistance, receive all my works, and possess all my affections" Brother Lawrence c.1614-1691 plinkercases.ca
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