Kind of went nuts on Round Knives

[KeithHideWorks]

So a little background. I have been having a hell of a time cutting out patterns and have tried just about everything I could think of. Stanley knife, Xacto, carpet knife, and the cheap tandy head knife I picked up for $20 on black friday. Now most of this is due to being new to leatherworking and just not knowing what the hell I'm doing. One thing I have learned quickly is quality leatherworking tools are not only expensive, but tend to hold their value. With that being said, I don't mind trying something out, knowing I can unload it if It doesn't work out.

Getting frustrated with the tandy head knife, spending tons of time with oil stones and a strop, trying to get a good edge....I was just getting pissed off. I would get 2-3 inches of great cuts, then a hell of a time (Cutting 8/9oz stiff HO hides).  So reading on here, it sounds like A. The tandy knives are junk steel and won't hold an edge. B. They are not profiled correctly and C. they break easily due to their thinness.  So I started looking around for some new knifes and with some serious impuse buys and auction hysteria, ended up with some new tools.

First I ended up with a smaller Weaver round knife. It looks like an older model and can't be found on their website anymore. It says weaver on one side, Limited Edition on the other side inside of what looks like a state I can't make out.  The handle is 2 pieces with a full tang, and tapers starting thin closer to the head and getting wider towards the bottom.  I paid $75 for this knife + a 2 Lb Al Stoman Maul.  

Next, I found a Sharpleigh Diamond Edge Knife on Ebay. It is in really good condition, and I paid $68 or so.

Lastly, as I was searching for a Plough Gauge on ebay on the UK side (ended up getting a Dixon plough for less than $200) I found a T Dixon round knife for sale and ended up winning that as well.  I think it was about $57 with the exchange rate.

 

All of them need a good sharpening and the Dixon could be re profiled as there are chips in the edge and some very light pitting.  Plan is to take them to a local Knife guru who has a very reputable business sharpening and rehabbing knives.

I really hope these better quality knives, once sharpened will solve my issue of cutting out crappy patterns that look like dogshit once they are beveled/burnished from being uneven.

If you had to keep 2 knives, which ones would you choose? Any info on these knives would be greatly appreciated as well.

Thanks,

 

 

[bikermutt07]

I was informed that the tandy doesn't contain enough carbon to hold an edge.

Can't help you decide on which ones to keep because I haven't gotten to try a real knife yet. I have one on order though.

Get them all sharpened and start playing. You may find you can't live another day without 2 more. Ha!

[MADMAX22]

The weaver knife is probably made by dan marlin if I remember right, the state is probably texas. If I am right that is a very nice knife. He use to make them for weaver at one point in time. I have one of his knives and it is used often. 

The two older ones on the right the dixon and sharpleigh are probably nice blades as well. 

If you want them to work properly ya need to get some training or maybe some insite from that knife sharpener on how to properly sharpen and maintain the edge. I wouldnt get the dixon reprofiled just take enough down on the edge to get rid of the chips. Lots of times people will get impatient and start grinding on a blade which can kill the heat treat with a quickness. 

Edited March 4, 2017 by MADMAX22

[LumpenDoodle2]

I swithered between a cheap new knife, and a badly treated Dixon round knife.   Fortunately, I plumped for the Dixon.   Thanks to the advice I received on here, I tackled the sharpening myself.   I am now the proud owner if a lively (and sharp)    knife, although I am still learning how to use it properly, I use it at every opportunity.

Just to add, I bought myself a Geo. Barnsley & Son quarter knife (new, old stock). Tidied up the edge, and am pretty happy with the results.   As madmax22 says, learn to sharpen them yourself, as this will allow you to maintain them.  

[bikermutt07]

Stohlman's book "Leather Tools" is great for learning how to sharpen all of your tools. He committed 8 pages to using the round/head knife. However, the sharpening technique for the round knife is more of a secondary bevell approach.

Everyone doing leather work has to learn how to sharpen. It's just a pain in the butt and dangerous if you don't.

I had to force myself to learn sharpening. Now that I can I'm so much happier.

[KeithHideWorks]

Got back from vacation and these showed up.

 

Gomph head knife in pretty good condition (Edge is terrible, dropping it off for sharpening today):

 

 

 

Any recommendations for cleaning rust off an old dixon plough gauge?

[bikermutt07]

I got my knipknife last week. It was worth the wait.

[Sheilajeanne]

I just looked for Stohlman's book on Amazon.ca, and the only copy they have is a used one for $73.00!!  The Tandy library has an e-edition available for $12.99, though.  Or, with my elite membership, I can have my very own hard copy for $16.80!  Choices, choices... :D

Keith, this is the famous Al Stohlman round knife you're talking about, right? The one that won't hold an edge, because the steel is crap?  

Edited March 12, 2017 by Sheilajeanne

[fredk]

I'd go for the hard copy.

If like me, you'll print out every page, put them into slip-pages then a file, by the time you've added in those extras and the time to do it you'd be better off just getting the hard copy.

Plus [not with Tandy] with some scanned books they weren't scanned properly, missing out lines, compressing paragraphs into a few squashed squggly lines.....

[bikermutt07]

The Leather tools how to sharpen them how to use them was only like 16 bucks.

[bikermutt07]

https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903

Here you go.

[Sheilajeanne]

49 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903

Here you go. 

Thanks, Biker. Since I'm in Canada, I'll just buy it at the Tandy store the next time I'm closeby. The exchange rate right now ain't good!

And could someone please tell me how to get my reply outside of this darn quote window??  

Edited March 12, 2017 by Sheilajeanne

[KeithHideWorks]

Not worried about sharpening. This guy is local, fantastic, quick and cheap:

http://www.patronsaintofknives.com

 

Just spent the last 2 days soaking the Plough Gauge in Evaporust (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html) and hand sanding down the corrosion and pitting. Got it dried, lubed and put back together and It's broken.  The Lever with a bolt in it seems to be bent, and will not cinch down tight enough on the bar to lock it in.  Anyone know a source for old dixon parts? 

 

You can kind of see the bend in the original auction photos: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FANTASTIC-ANTIQUE-SADDLERS-LEATHER-TOOL-J-DIXON-1884-RARE-/152438384467?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=431LnNvKDIm6Xao3D8F3JnoRk30%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Edited March 12, 2017 by KeithHideWorks

[clivel]

3 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Thanks, Biker. Since I'm in Canada, I'll just buy it at the Tandy store the next time I'm closeby. The exchange rate right now ain't good!

Being in Canada I have more or less given up on Amazon.ca, even with the exchange rates and shipping it is almost always significantly cheaper to order from Amazon.com. And if you spend more than US$25 on books, shipping is free. In this case however with your Elite membership, Tandy would be your best bet.
Clive

 

 

[bikermutt07]

34 minutes ago, KeithHideWorks said:

Not worried about sharpening. This guy is local, fantastic, quick and cheap:

http://www.patronsaintofknives.com

 

Just spent the last 2 days soaking the Plough Gauge in Evaporust (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html) and hand sanding down the corrosion and pitting. Got it dried, lubed and put back together and It's broken.  The Lever with a bolt in it seems to be bent, and will not cinch down tight enough on the bar to lock it in.  Anyone know a source for old dixon parts? 

 

You can kind of see the bend in the original auction photos: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FANTASTIC-ANTIQUE-SADDLERS-LEATHER-TOOL-J-DIXON-1884-RARE-/152438384467?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=431LnNvKDIm6Xao3D8F3JnoRk30%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Bruce Johnson may have some parts. Maybe.

[KeithHideWorks]

I was able to crank it down hard enough to get it to stay. May end up being servicable in the end.

Going to drop the Dixon blade and gomph off to my sharpening guy...he is an artist!.

The 4 head knives I got back were profiled and are RAZOR sharp.....packaged nicely with a few band aids thrown in for good measure. These things glide through my leather.  Can't beat it for $5 per knife.

If anyone needs sharpening done, I can't recommend this guy enough. He does a lot of business and sharpens for some  of premier knife makers/collectors in the nation. Hell of a nice guy to boot.

I was worried about the horror stories you hear from guys ruining the heat treating.  This dude's theory is you should always be able to kiss the knife. If you are getting heat, you are doing it wrong and need to change speeds, media, angle, ect. 

http://www.patronsaintofknives.com

 

 

Edited March 12, 2017 by KeithHideWorks

[MADMAX22]

There are a bunch of ways to remove/nuetralize rust on things. Looks like ya got a over the counter type that hopefully works well. I have done the electro whatever method with a DC power supply in a solution of I think it was baking soda with a anode (steel bar) (have to look it up to be sure, been a while). That worked really well. 

Another method is apple cyder vinegar with salt, put the item in and let it sit. Take it out and brush off the rust and repeat if necessary. This method usually does as good if not better then over the counter stuff and is pretty cheap. 

Just FYI for future ventures.