Resolene wiping off dye

[Jason046]

I am new to leather work and have never had a problem with this. All of a sudden everytime I put fiebings resolene on my black fiebeings leather dye it wipes off splotches of the dye. Any help would be appreciated of what I am doing wrong

Edited March 5, 2017 by Jason046

[Mattsbagger]

Which Fiebing's black are you using? Are you buffing excess pigment off and letting dry 12 to 24 hrs before Resoline? Is your Resoline 100% or 50/50 with water.? Also pictures would help.

Edited March 5, 2017 by Mattsbagger

[Jason046]

I let it dry for about 12 hours and rubbed it down with a cloth. I put the resolene on 100% but have never had a problem applying it like that before. I could go to a 50/50. I have been burnishing more with gum tragacanth. I guess it could be possible for some to be getting on the front. Would that cause the leather dye not to set?

[Jason046]

[Mattsbagger]

The gum trag might be the problem. It doesn't let did penetrate well. I burnish as a last step.

[Jason046]

I was burnishing before I dye cause was thinking the burnishing might wear off the dye. You burnish after you have dyed and it dosent affect t your dye?

[Mattsbagger]

Nope. And on some things I do in brown then stitch and dye edges in black. Just do all of your edging first and sanding then dye. I use a dauber or qtip for the edges depending on thickness of the leather. Go easy if doing different color on edges because it soaks in fast like the end grain of wood. Some me included sometimes dye the edges with Sharpie. I burnish with saddle soap and/or gum trag. Finish with a beeswax/paraffin 50/50.

[Jason046]

Do you use alcohol or deglazer before dieing or painting. It seems every strap I do this us happening to. It must be the gum tragacanth is all I can think. I tried using alcohol to prep before dieing and it still happened

[Mattsbagger]

I don't do dye prep usually. I do dampen the leather as dye seems to penetrate better. If using glue or contact cement ANY on the surface will block dye.

[Sceaden]

I'm not entirely sure but basically anything that isn't oil or dye will block dye, and that means any glue, gum trag, hard wax like beeswax, dirt on your fingers, you name it. 

[Jason046]

Thanks. Yea it's really frustrating. The randomness of the splotches and area is what is weird. I tried prepping with alcohol before dieing also with the same result. Not sure what is going on but it comes right off as soon as I start to apply. How long do yall wait before applying?

Is there a way to clean these off before dieing or once they are on is that pretty much it

[Tugadude]

I don't think you ever answered the question of which Fiebings dye you are using.  Which is it?

[Mattsbagger]

If it's contact cement you can rub it off with your finger or an art gum eraser.

[Jason046]

It's fiebings usmc black

[Mattsbagger]

1 hour ago, Jason046 said:

It's fiebings usmc black

I would not use usmc unless you really like buffing. It is the bane of rub off from what I have read. I use the Pro/oil (which has no oil). With good results. Do a search on here on the USMC and you will see what I mean.

[Jason046]

Thanks for the advice. What is the difference between the pro dye and those dyes. I have noticed it is a pain with all the buffing. So use the pro with the resolene. I have noticed the red and brown seem so much easier

[alpha2]

I have seen a lot of posts about USMC black, none of it good. Also, try spraying the Resolene on, then there is no rubbing. After it dried you can buff it but as it's dry, it won't take off the dye.

[Mattsbagger]

3 hours ago, Jason046 said:

Thanks for the advice. What is the difference between the pro dye and those dyes. I have noticed it is a pain with all the buffing. So use the pro with the resolene. I have noticed the red and brown seem so much easier

USMC has WAY more pigment in it. More than ever needed.

[Jason046]

I have tried to spray it but when I do it seems to be thick and have bubbles from the water.  Will this go away after it dries

[fredk]

The bubbles will pop but leave minute circular marks looking like tiny holes.

[Jason046]

So what would be the best way to spray resolene without having this happen

[alpha2]

You're right. I forgot about that! I have been spraying satin sheen and other stuff, but the Resolene did leave bubbles and circles! I can't believe I forgot about that. 

Good thing you all were here to smack me up the side of the head. Now I remember when I stopped using resolene, and why!  I did finally get rid of the circles, but only after a lot of buffing and a layer of something other than resolene...and more buffing.

[Jason046]

Haha, yea I have liked the look of the resolene and heard it is good for protecting against outdoor use. Never tried the sheen. With the brown dye the resolene wipes on great and never had an issue. I will probably go away from the usmc black cause it does seem to be difficult. I sprayed the leather with alcohol before applying the dye and I did notice the same splotches show up so it might just be something on this leather I have. Gonna try a deglazer and see how it works. Thanks for the help. Still learning as I go so the advice goes a long way for me

[fredk]

Try deglazer. I had a bit of leather that wouldn't take dye evenly; deglazer didn't make much difference so I used cellulose thinners [aka lacquer thinners to you maybe] to clean it, that did the job well, but it also took oils out of the leather, but that didn't matter too much as I just used beeswax/neetsfoot mix on it to replace the oils.

For some things I brush Resolene on. Its a 1:1 mix with water. I get small air bubbles but I don't let them dry, I just keep brushing over them till they are gone.