Members dikman Posted March 24, 2017 Members Report Posted March 24, 2017 Chayse, you beat me to it re- fishing rod guides. The old ones were extremely tough when it came to wear, just a little bit brittle! The modern versions are also tough but not brittle. When I built my own rods many years ago I uses Fuji guides which, of course, come in all sorts of sizes. Could be worth keeping in mind for anyone looking for a thread guide of some sort. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
MADMAX22 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Posted March 24, 2017 Actually looks like there are several suppliers of various ceramic guides of all sorts. I am gonna look into it some and find the right size for when this one wears out. Quote
Members Chayse Posted March 25, 2017 Members Report Posted March 25, 2017 Either way, hopefully it helps you or someone else solve an issue or potential issue, you might be surprised, even today, many rod eyelets are still porcelain or ceramic. V/r, Chayse Quote
RockyAussie Posted March 25, 2017 Report Posted March 25, 2017 12 hours ago, MADMAX22 said: The original thread guide didn't have enough material on the outside of the hole so I couldn't round it over to smooth it out. Ground the original down flush then silver soldered on a shaped piece of hard brass. Drilled original size hole and opened up the top some and smoothed it all out. Seems to be working pretty nice now with less thread wearing. Nice tidy looking mod MADMAX. I have been wondering whether to make a longer needle holder to cut down deflection but not sure yet if it is worth the bother. I notice the middle foot is cut near level with the hole. Does that give any problems such as missing stitches or anything? Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
MADMAX22 Posted March 25, 2017 Author Report Posted March 25, 2017 Rock thanks, I would have made it less tall but really dont have the time for much of anything lately. The center toe foot I wanted to open up the front so I could see where the needle hits, unfortunately a common theme is off center holes which was the same with the toe. By the time I got the front cut off and everything smoothed out it was farther back then what I wanted. It works fine though, just as good as before from what I can tell. Its a little harder to pull the thread back when starting a stitch without more of a fork sticking out front. I can see exactly where the needle is going to hit though which was the original goal. Quote
RockyAussie Posted March 25, 2017 Report Posted March 25, 2017 Thanks for that MADMAX. I like to see better where I'm stitching as well but I would not want to be stitching soft stuff and have it play up. Don't laugh as I'm sure others will, but I thinking about making it a non walking foot when I want that way.No front foot and closed up back feet the only foot. For intricate position stitching purposes.Just don't like the way the dog foot disappears so deep down in when at the back of the stitch.I'm not sure if there is any way to adjust for that as yet.Regards Brian. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Cascabel Posted March 25, 2017 Members Report Posted March 25, 2017 Interesting !!! I had not noticed the needlebar thread guide on my 4500, and had not been using it. Never seemed to cause a problem at all. I will use it the next time I sew something on the machine and see if it makes any difference one way or the other. Quote
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