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I have a question regarding a JUKI for sale. I have never used a sewing machine of any kind before. I came across a JUKI for sale, he was asking $1200. I told him it was out of my price range I only had $800. He said he couldn't let it go for that price. A week later he contacted me and said my price was the highest offered, I can pick it up if I have the $800. I don't know anything about sewing machines. The fact is I never thought he would come down that low. I am not sure if that is low. That is why I am turning to you Gals & Guys. I saw a few pictures, it looks in good shape. He said it has a Servo motor and comes with a table and could take multiple needles and could sew through 10 oz leather. There are #s on the side DNU1541. He said it is in excellent condition. Well what do you think?

 

Jim

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If it runs and is not worn that price is a very good deal from your point of view..
The latest version of that model ( the DNU1541-7 ) is over 5K in the USA..
So the one you are looking at will be a DNU1541 ( some number )..the ( "some number" will tell you the exact model and give an idea of the year )
How old is it ?

Edited by mikesc

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Just now, mikesc said:

If it runs and is not worn that price is a very good deal from your point of view..

 

 

 

Thank you for the reply. Is there anything I should be looking for if it runs? Like I said, I never operated asewing machine.

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Take some leather with you ( veg tan two pieces total about 3/8 thick , and some thread 92 or 138 ) test it..
*Take a hold of the needle bar ( when it is "up" ) between finger and thumb just above the needle and try to wiggle it, back and forward, left and right.
do the same to the feet bars..take off the throat plate ( where the ridged feed dogs stick up from the bottom ) and try to wiggle the feed dogs and the shaft they are on.
Do all those "wiggle tests" with it switched off..:)..
Then switch it on..
Try stitching with it at the smallest stitch length..and at the largest stitch length..

Sew about a 12 inch run forwards..and without changing the stitch length press the reverse lever and see if it can sew back into the same holes it made going forwards..try this on the smallest and the largest stitch lengths..the more accurately it can sew backwards into the same holes at each length the better..
Listen for any odd creaks and "sticky spots" as it runs slowly..
Then feed it some denim or canvas about 3/8 thick and floor the peddle ..
if it does all this OK..
Give the man the money and run away with it before he changes his mind..
Get a receipt..cos if it all runs OK at that price with a servo fitted it is a steal, would be even without the servo.
HTH :)

* try the "wiggle tests" again with the feet bars and the needle bar lowered..without a needle in preferably..you are checking for wear at the top end..
open the throat plate and try to wiggle the "hook" ( it isn't hook shaped ) ..it is the round thing that the bobbin sits in from side to side..take off a few covers and look fro rust and to see if anything looks worn or if it looks like it was regularly maintained and oiled..

At that price..I'd take it and run..if it isn't shot.

Edited by mikesc

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Good test advice.  It should work smooth and the stitching should look good on both sides of your test.  Check out some Juki 1541 videos on YouTube and it should give you an idea of what they run and sound like.  They have a really nice purrrrrr sound to them.  

 

 

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Looking back at when I bought my first machine....half the previous post would be greek to me. Do you know anyone that sews that you can bring with you? if not, at least bring a sample of what you want to sew on it and have the seller sew with it so you can make sure it works. At minimum listen and look. It should not miss any stitches and it should have a steady smooth sound. Reverse should be able to stitch back in the same exact holes that it just stitched forward in.

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That is a big help. Thank you so much. 

Jim

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I'm only familiar with two models -- 1541 and 1541S. The S model has a safety clutch, and while retails for only $100 more and is worth the expense. As for retail price and other information, the following link might be helpful.

http://store.keysew.com/sewing-machines/juki-sewing

Here are a few suggestions for buying used. 

When buying a used machine, try to find a manual online, or at least a few pictures. Sometimes machines are not even complete. If a manual cannot be found, try "how to thread [machine make and model]" on google.

Take scissors, small screw drivers, thread and sample fabrics, needles, flashlight and of course the manual. Using different colored thread for needle thread and bobbin thread and different from the material color helps to be able to see the stitches and tension.

First, ask the seller to demonstrate the machine if they can. Then with a flashlight look top, bottom and underneath at overall condition and especially for rust. Look at the slots in screws and the sides of bolt-heads for evidence of heavy-handed maintenance. Try to wiggle the needle bar by hand front to back and sideways. It should not move. The machine should be tight, but operated easily by turning the handwheel. The handwheel might have a little play but the feed and needle bar should not. The electrical connection on older machines can be a problem.

Wind a bobbin with your thread and using your top thread, sew with your sample material. Verify that the stitches look OK both top and bottom.

To test stitch length, set the stitch length, un-tread the needle and with the hand-wheel operate the machine sewing forward “sewing” a piece of light cardboard or heavy paper for a few inches. Then with the hand-wheel operate the machine in reverse. The needle holes in reverse should perfectly match the holes going forward. Remove the cardboard and measure the actual stitch-length versus the setting. Do that for various stitch lengths. If applicable, repeat for various zig zag widths.

Beware that oil can become very viscous and interfere with the operation of a machine that has been unused for a very long time. In a severe case, the machine might need to be immersed in solvent to dissolve thickened oil. 

Attached is a Juki 1541 service manual for all models.

 

 

JUKI_DNU-1541-S_SERVICE_MANUAL.pdf

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One other thing, tilt it onto it's back and look for any unusual wear on the shafts , or the bearings, or any ( hevvin furbid ) cracks on the bearing holders in the castings, while it is tilted back also look also at the end away from the needle ( the belt end ) for any signs of slop and wear wear..again take each of the moving parts in between your thumb and forefinger and do the wiggle test use ..some force when doing the wiggle test.. these things are as strong as most motor cycle engines, you won't hurt it..turn it over by hand in the normal sewing direction* ( you should be turning the wheel part at the drive end towards you ) ( with it switched off ) when it is tilted back, that will let you see what should be moving smoothly..any other wiggle or slop is wear..( and is negotiable )..Also looking below the machine tells you how clean they kept it..look for any broken needle s and pins and gunk down there.more than a few means it was run hard and not treated nice..

* These machines always sew when the drive wheel turns over towards you ( or if when you looked at the drive wheel "end on" , from the right hand side of the table ) ..even when sewing in "reverse"..when they run in reverse it is the feed dogs which "cycle" differently, the machine drive wheel still turns towards you ( if you were sitting at the operators position ) and the drive wheel still turns anti clockwise if looked at "end on" from the right hand end of the table..

Oh..and with a servo ..even with the power off ..you may have to press lightly on the pedal in order to be able to turn it over by hand as Texas said above while I was typing ( I must type faster )..When I began this ( my second post )only yetibelle had replied.

Edited by mikesc

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Just glancing over what others have mentioned. 

I stress the model number clarification. The " S" model is what you would like best for that money.  I have both and they both are great for canvas and that range of stuff. They have different hooks and other parts also.

They normaly run the 135x17 needle system with 3/8" thickness material. This sounds like a good find for stuff under that material dimension. 

Good find, and its a great idea to get it! Imho

Floyd

Edited by brmax

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Try again ..this time as a .zip

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I am bad with posting photos, not good on PC. After all the trouble you guys went through telling me about the JUKI I changed my mind about buying it. If you know anyone who lives in the NJ, PA area who would want it, I will give you the e-mail address. I just don't sell enough leather items to make it worth buying a machine. All you guy are really great and I do appricate all the help you gave me. Let me know if someone is interested, I will give you the guys address. I can tell you now I guess. It is on craigs list Philadelphia. He has the pictures posted. Thank you all again.

Jim

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That Juki 1541S in the CL ad came from @Gregg From Keystone Sewing . The machine in the CL Ad looks to be in very nice condition. The price for that machine new from Keystone $1,510.

Here's a snapshot of the CL ad for this juki DNU-1541S, just in case anybody's interested:

Juki-1541S-CL.jpg

 

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I have seen one like that 30 miles from me way back when i thought! i knew what i know today. I let the opportunity get away and so that thought keeps reminding me, like a turkey thinking it can get through a boxwire fence. Since then all my machines havent been in my State fwiw

The known setup from Gregg is a big +

thanks Uwe for posting the page, the machine would be a great asset to someones shop. 

Floyd

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He is willing to sell it for $800 act fast he is moving.

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If he was headed through the midwest im sure we could come up with something. I really have enough to work with now. Sheeeesh sometimes think i need to be buffulo bill and run two at once "somehow" but quickly realize reality.  

Thanks for the great tip

Floyd

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