Comparing Edge Finishes

[RockyAussie]

20 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said:

I have tried the Fenice and am not overly impressed with it.  I find that it takes several applications just to get the look that I want and solid coverage and I can't find myself investing that much time in finishing the edges.  So, as a result of that, I have returned to the old school (original teachings here) way of doing things: water, my ancient wooden slicker, and some good old elbow grease.  This gives me the glowing finish that I want and then I run a small dauber with some dye on it down and around and done.  Every time I give some of this newfangled stuff a try I just can't understand where some find it to be a quicker or better method.  Nothing beats just having a true finished leather edge; nothing to crack, peel, or rub off because the dye has penetrated deep into the fibers and the edge has been burnished naturally to a solid finish.

I have to agree that burnishing can be a lot quicker way to go when you can but unfortunately I have to deal a lot with dissimilar leather combinations and even when crocodile is done full veg tanned the hard and soft between the scales makes burnishing near to impossible for me. I have to also do my best with a wide range of often vibrant colours and chrome tanning, re tanned and many other as well. As most of the products I make are for the higher end even the edges of my wallet folds where their seen have to have colour matched edging. As far as any peeling or rubbing off goes the techniques I've developed over the years have minimalised these issues near to non existent. Too slick an edge before edge coat is the biggest mistake that some people make as that can lead to peeling up and as you say you want that colour to deeply penetrate into the leather fibres. Note: I don't use these edge coats on greasy or bridle type leathers and on these leather types I agree fully with burnishing as the only way I know of. Normal veg tooling type leathers are no problem with edge coating if not overly slicked up before application. I have put below a few product pictures to hopefully show a bit of what I am trying to get at. Brian

[RockyAussie]

On 30/07/2017 at 3:47 AM, Matt S said:

Thanks for this comparison, Gary. I'm looking for something to improve on the Edgekote -- i find it's too shiny, doesn't fill very well and takes an age to dry thoroughly. I have a small bottle of Fenice on the way and Norsol, a brand I have only recently come across. I will compare them with Edgekote and post the results.

Hi Matt S, if you find the edging a bit to shiny it will dull down when ironed in with a iron not too hot. I do this sometimes and just finish of with a wax polish which can give a nice satiny sheen. If it has to be extra well finished sometimes I dull with a chemical I get made up but you can achieve the same with a talcum powder if used carefully.It needs to be shaken well before use as it can settle a bit after a while.If you use too much powder you will increase the hollowing/craze line up the middle problem as I have found on the Giardini colours when applied thickly. I have not tried the black Giardini and cant say if it has this problem.Brain

Edited July 31, 2017 by RockyAussie
forgot something

[Ben00]

On 7/29/2017 at 10:43 PM, RockyAussie said:

Brian, 

regarding the chemical you use to finish your edges just a bit more if needed, what did you say it was called? 
and it makes your edges an extra bit smoother after applying edge coat and soldering with your iron correct? 
- Ben

[RockyAussie]

38 minutes ago, Ben00 said:

regarding the chemical you use to finish your edges just a bit more if needed, what did you say it was called? 
and it makes your edges an extra bit smoother after applying edge coat and soldering with your iron correct? 
- Ben

Depending on where in the world you are...Campbell Randall had it once but I think you would have to order 20 litres of it at a time if you are in the USA. In Australia here I get Ares AR 6350 which is just Fenice 6350 rebranded. It is thermo mouldable. The other Fenice range that ends in P or plus I think is more of a poly urethane type compound which is not very thermomouldable but is a very durable edge. It seems to have to be sanded more than ironed and for me too slow to use in comparison. Many have gone to using the Giardini range these days and a lot seem to like it but it needs sanding as well. I found too many problems such as shelf life and edge splitting problems with it myself but they may have improved since those trials. For black I use OMAC semi matt black 9OM 357556 which I think may be a rebranded Kenda Farben product. Most of this stuff can be found under shoe finishing products. I hope this helps some.

[Doc Reaper]

I have been doing leather shhtuff for over 50 years, I try products that are sold from the leather stores I enter personally. I have been on this site for 11 years and would use this place as inspiration or gain the knowledge I don’t have.

I have many books that discuss leather, dyes, tools, and other such items. 
I never knew of these edge finishers and I though that Fiebings and Angeles were the only two contenders, but thanks to you good folks, my addiction worsens! And I live in Central North Carolina where the hobby shops are far to basic compared to what most of us need!

I moisten my finger with water, wood slicker, die, slick again. But one of you guys mentioned wax! So I purchased a slicker from the “Leather Toolmaker” and placed it in my drill press, and some items are waxed (mostly biker bags) while others just get the wet finger and the wooden stick. 

I have purchased items from a handful of ya but still have to trip over some items (like Wild Harry’s items from Aussie) and want to find more but I don’t have much tripping time left!

If y’all have knowledge of cool items that make a job easier PM me and I will open a new post and most likely purchase it from ya.

[TomE]

I think the Fenice edge paints sold by Campbell Randall are all compatible with hot glazing.  They are sold in 1 liter bottles.  I've been using their Fenice Colorfast dye "with added waxes" on the edge of bridle leather and been very happy with the penetration and durability for tack.  I don't think the Colorfast dye is compatible with glazing but it gives a nice edge IMO. 

 

I recently learned about applying beeswax with burnishing iron/edge iron in an article by Cary Schwarz in the May 2022 Shop Talk magazine.  Has anyone had experience with this?  I aim to try it on bridles and halters.  The edge irons are hard to find so I ordered a brass "lollipop burnisher" from Duane Watts. 

 

 

 

[RockyAussie]

2 hours ago, TomE said:

I think the Fenice edge paints sold by Campbell Randall are all compatible with hot glazing.  They are sold in 1 liter bottles.  I've been using their Fenice Colorfast dye "with added waxes" on the edge of bridle leather and been very happy with the penetration and durability for tack.  I don't think the Colorfast dye is compatible with glazing but it gives a nice edge IMO. 

Thanks for that feedback @TomE.What you see in this video is along the line of how I have done edge painting for many years now ....but ...This video was done in 2014 and the paint used then they do not stock now. There is a column shown that says Shiny and the stock shows 0. That is the range that I use. I made the mistake of buying in a fairly large order from them not realising that the P on the end of the product number makes it a pretty much un ironable paint. They may be able to still order it in but I think they have to get like 20 litres at a time per colour. I get through my contacts 20 litres of the clear AR 6350 made up to which I mix in pigments (10%+ -) that I have bought from a tanning supply place over here. This way I can easily mix any colour to suit my job. May sound excessive to many but when you mostly do expensive crocodile products it keeps you ahead of the competition.

[TomE]

2 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Thanks for that feedback @TomE.What you see in this video is along the line of how I have done edge painting for many years now ....but ...This video was done in 2014 and the paint used then they do not stock now. There is a column shown that says Shiny and the stock shows 0. That is the range that I use. I made the mistake of buying in a fairly large order from them not realising that the P on the end of the product number makes it a pretty much un ironable paint. They may be able to still order it in but I think they have to get like 20 litres at a time per colour. I get through my contacts 20 litres of the clear AR 6350 made up to which I mix in pigments (10%+ -) that I have bought from a tanning supply place over here. This way I can easily mix any colour to suit my job. May sound excessive to many but when you mostly do expensive crocodile products it keeps you ahead of the competition.

That sounds like a robust solution.  For the Fenice Glossy PLUS edge paints they mention using a hot glazing tool in the description but I may misunderstand the application.   I've read about edge stain recipes for tack that include wallpaper paste, pearl glue, or PVA glue.  Seems everyone has their special sauce.  I'm hoping that beeswax applied with an edge iron will create a durable seal.