CowboyBob Posted November 21, 2017 Report Posted November 21, 2017 I have a customer that has bought at least 5 of our little 550 watt Family-Sew motors & mounted them on Landis#12,so a 1000w would surely work. Quote Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. 3631 Marine Rd Toledo,Ohio 43609 1-866-362-7397
Members Vinculus Posted November 21, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 21, 2017 1 hour ago, brmax said: Just to be curious, first. What hp motor is on it now, and what dia. pulley is on the motor at present. Do you have a photo of the back gearing/pulley arrangement possibly. Good day Floyd I will have to get back to you on this. I haven't transported the machine to my storage unit yet. 1 hour ago, CowboyBob said: I have a customer that has bought at least 5 of our little 550 watt Family-Sew motors & mounted them on Landis#12,so a 1000w would surely work. Oh, cool. Maybe I'll just go for a 3/4hp servo then, like I have on my Adler 68 post bed. I'll have to do some more research. Pulleys and whatever are cheap, so as long as the motor works one would think getting the right size and width pulley shouldn't be hard. Quote
Members brmax Posted November 21, 2017 Members Report Posted November 21, 2017 Initial reasons I ask about the pulley arangement was to assess the use of plain ole 120v servo motor. Skip the 220 if possible. I was guessing that machine was geared already to use a small amount of power, and using machine parts as momentum. Im curious to hear any operational characteristics of these machines, mainly for any motor loads. Floyd Quote
Members Vinculus Posted November 21, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 21, 2017 2 hours ago, brmax said: Initial reasons I ask about the pulley arangement was to assess the use of plain ole 120v servo motor. Skip the 220 if possible. I was guessing that machine was geared already to use a small amount of power, and using machine parts as momentum. Im curious to hear any operational characteristics of these machines, mainly for any motor loads. Floyd Well, I live in Europe and 220-230V is the domestic standard here. I will have to figure out everything once I’ve moved the machine and can tinker with it in my storage unit. I’ll be sure to take lots of pictures, no question about that. Mostly because I have no idea what some parts do and require help from a fella abroad that restores these for a living. Quote
Members Vinculus Posted November 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 23, 2017 Finally got the machine out of the cold and into the heat. Here are a couple of pictures, apologies for the size: The heating coils have been repaired and rewired to a new separate 220V circuit, so at least I can still hand crank it to test how it stitches without the motor. Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted November 23, 2017 Moderator Report Posted November 23, 2017 What kinds of shoes do you make, @Vinculus? Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members Ogoki Posted November 24, 2017 Members Report Posted November 24, 2017 (edited) Nice score! I'm jealous. That's the king of outsole stitchers, there. I used one of those in a production facility, but now use a lowly Champion 55 in my home shop. I don't really see the benefit of a servo motor in this case. In my experience (heavy boots), you want flywheel momentum, so low speed stitching really isn't an option, unless you are making light footwear, I suppose... Any old industrial motor would do. The one on my Champion is a 1/3hp/1725rpm. A 1/2hp wouldn't hurt, as the Rapid E flywheels are heavier... Edited November 24, 2017 by Ogoki Quote Seiko PW-27B, Mitsubishi DN-260, Singer 95K43, Champion 77 McKay stitcher, Champion 55 outsole stitcher
Members Vinculus Posted November 24, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 24, 2017 (edited) 12 hours ago, Wizcrafts said: What kinds of shoes do you make, @Vinculus? Stitchdown boots based on traditional Scandinavian military, work and ski boot patterns but on a more contemporary set of lasts. You can see more examples on my instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ostmoboots/ I've been hand stitching the soles for two years now. Takes forever. Edited November 24, 2017 by Vinculus Quote
Members Vinculus Posted November 24, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 24, 2017 4 hours ago, Ogoki said: Nice score! I'm jealous. That's the king of outsole stitchers, there. I used one of those in a production facility, but now use a lowly Champion 55 in my home shop. I don't really see the benefit of a servo motor in this case. In my experience (heavy boots), you want flywheel momentum, so low speed stitching really isn't an option, unless you are making light footwear, I suppose... Any old industrial motor would do. The one on my Champion is a 1/3hp/1725rpm. A 1/2hp wouldn't hurt, as the Rapid E flywheels are heavier... I would be jealous for the price I got it for as well alone, haha. TBH I would've loved the Rapid II, which is a little smaller but still able to stitch cleanly through really thick materials. But alas, they are rarer than hen's teeth. Note taken in regards to motors. Clutch motors are often quite big though, and the one that is mounted in the machine is small. Will have to find something small and suitable to make it easier to match up the pulley position and such. Quote
480volt Posted November 24, 2017 Report Posted November 24, 2017 You can also leave the original motor in place and get a phase converter to generate your three-phase. This option would probably cost more than just buying a replacement single-phase motor, but OEM three-phase motors are generally well designed and very long-lived (the motor on my milling machine is 75 years old and still running fine). Quote
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