GP100 Field Holster

[Josh Ashman]

Just finished up. 8/9 HO main body with a 5/6 HO reinforcement. Fiebings brown dye cut with alcohol, a little NF oil and M&G cut with water for a top finish. The edges got some black dye once they were pretty slicked up. 

Have a great day! 

 

[alpha2]

Lucky gun! Fine looking holster. Was that light brown?

[garypl]

Really nice work - is that your own pattern?

Gary

[Josh Ashman]

6 minutes ago, alpha2 said:

Lucky gun! Fine looking holster. Was that light brown?

Thanks Alpha! and yes sir, that is light brown.

 

2 minutes ago, garypl said:

Really nice work - is that your own pattern?

Gary

Thanks Gary! and yes sir that is my own pattern. 

[bikermutt07]

It houses that Ruger real nice. Great job.

I love Rugers.

[garypl]

48 minutes ago, Josh Ashman said:

Thanks Alpha! and yes sir, that is light brown.

 

Thanks Gary! and yes sir that is my own pattern. 

Thanks Josh - when you design a new pattern, do you use heavy paper or is there another type of material that works well for pattern design?  I want to try to design a holster for a S&W M64 and seeing your holster is for a similar revolver (Ruger) got me thinking about getting started down the right path with this!

Gary

[Josh Ashman]

1 hour ago, bikermutt07 said:

It houses that Ruger real nice. Great job.

I love Rugers.

Thanks BikerMutt!, I'm a big Ruger fan too!

 

43 minutes ago, garypl said:

Thanks Josh - when you design a new pattern, do you use heavy paper or is there another type of material that works well for pattern design?  I want to try to design a holster for a S&W M64 and seeing your holster is for a similar revolver (Ruger) got me thinking about getting started down the right path with this!

Gary

Gary,

I use "velum" printing paper which I buy by the roll on Amazon. It's relatively cheap, 3' wide by as long as I want for larger projects and handiest for me, you can see through it. Being able to see through it is a big deal for how I make my patterns, which mostly involves having them folded on a "centerline". The process I used for making this pattern is almost a step by step of the one Al Stohlman provides in his book on how to make holsters. Granted, Al's book is outdated having come from the 60's (or whenever it was he made it), but the principles are the same.

I'll also add that when I draw a pattern I mostly shade a huge area then erase what doesn't look like the line I want. I envy people who can draw smooth flowing lines in one try. I'm certainly not one of those people. 

Good luck with your pattern and holster!

Josh

[Double Daddy]

As always from your bench, Josh...fine lookin' leather for a fine weapon. That oil coat (prior to finish) sure looks rich, don't it?

[garypl]

1 hour ago, Josh Ashman said:

Thanks BikerMutt!, I'm a big Ruger fan too!

 

Gary,

I use "velum" printing paper which I buy by the roll on Amazon. It's relatively cheap, 3' wide by as long as I want for larger projects and handiest for me, you can see through it. Being able to see through it is a big deal for how I make my patterns, which mostly involves having them folded on a "centerline". The process I used for making this pattern is almost a step by step of the one Al Stohlman provides in his book on how to make holsters. Granted, Al's book is outdated having come from the 60's (or whenever it was he made it), but the principles are the same.

I'll also add that when I draw a pattern I mostly shade a huge area then erase what doesn't look like the line I want. I envy people who can draw smooth flowing lines in one try. I'm certainly not one of those people. 

Good luck with your pattern and holster!

Josh

Thanks Josh - I will try the velum paper!

Gary

[Josh Ashman]

1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:

As always from your bench, Josh...fine lookin' leather for a fine weapon. That oil coat (prior to finish) sure looks rich, don't it?

Thanks Chris! Agreed that a coat of oil over the dyed leather really adds to the "richness" and "depth" of the color. I think it also helps even out the "splotchyness" so often associated with Fiebings light browns and tans and puts back into the leather some conditioners after being dyed and cased. I try not to overdo it with carry gear that I want to stay rigid but I still give them a little. 

Have a great day as well! 

[Double Daddy]

Just now, Josh Ashman said:

I think it also helps even out the "splotchyness" so often associated with Fiebings light browns and tans and puts back into the leather some conditioners after being dyed and cased. 

Here lately, I've even been playing/sampling around with combining a light pre-treatment (of sorts) of paste saddle soap along with the N.O. before final finish...darkens things up a tad and adds a little depth. to the color. as well. Not sure if this idea is any more beneficial that N.O. alone as far as getting conditioners back into the leather after it comes out of the drying cabinet. However, this technique did wonders for the newer non-gunleather/accessory dye colors I've been experimenting with (red, royal blue, green)...they're too "light/bright" for my taste, otherwise.

[Josh Ashman]

1 hour ago, Double Daddy said:

Here lately, I've even been playing/sampling around with combining a light pre-treatment (of sorts) of paste saddle soap along with the N.O. before final finish...darkens things up a tad and adds a little depth. to the color. as well. Not sure if this idea is any more beneficial that N.O. alone as far as getting conditioners back into the leather after it comes out of the drying cabinet. However, this technique did wonders for the newer non-gunleather/accessory dye colors I've been experimenting with (red, royal blue, green)...they're too "light/bright" for my taste, otherwise.

Sounds like a great idea Chris! Glad to hear it's working out well! 

All the best, Josh 

[JKHelms]

Very nice holster!,, good job.

[Dwight]

Kinda makes me want to go get a blued steel GP100 just so I can make a holster for it.

Good job, Josh, . . . tastefully done, . . . but yet simple and practical. 

May God bless,

Dwight

[georgiapine85]

Very Nice! Did you use Fiebings oil dye or their alchohol based dye?

[Josh Ashman]

17 hours ago, JKHelms said:

Very nice holster!,, good job.

Thanks JK!

 

17 hours ago, Dwight said:

Kinda makes me want to go get a blued steel GP100 just so I can make a holster for it.

Good job, Josh, . . . tastefully done, . . . but yet simple and practical. 

May God bless,

Dwight

Thanks Dwight! This one happens to be mine and I simply couldn't be happier with the GP100! I strongly recommend them! And they are fun to build holsters for!

16 hours ago, georgiapine85 said:

Very Nice! Did you use Fiebings oil dye or their alchohol based dye?

Thanks GeorgiaPine! I believe it's the Pro Oil, although despite the name it is alcohol based like the "regular" dye. It's been a while since I purchased the dye and have long since put it in a different container so I couldn't say for sure. 

All the best, Josh

[Steve75]

Nicely done.

[Carson]

On 1/8/2018 at 10:59 AM, garypl said:

Thanks Josh - when you design a new pattern, do you use heavy paper or is there another type of material that works well for pattern design?  I want to try to design a holster for a S&W M64 and seeing your holster is for a similar revolver (Ruger) got me thinking about getting started down the right path with this!

Gary

I use printer paper first then cardboard for a template and the tracing film for carving