Rossr Posted February 3, 2018 Report Posted February 3, 2018 Well apparently two was not enough so I made another one. This one I am going to see about donating for a auction. If any of you know the symbols on the front you can guess what for... Anyway, Veg tan leather, carved and did some simple quilting on it. The middle piece is oil tan this time just to mix it up. I sewed it on the Juki-lu563...still learning but getting better. Inside lined with a waxed pig suede and veg tan for the flaps. Starting to get a real process down on these. May have to consider making some for sale at some point. Constructive criticism always welcome Ross https://www.facebook.com/EinhornLLC/videos/1028263387312029/ Quote
Members YinTx Posted February 3, 2018 Members Report Posted February 3, 2018 Your tooling is looking incredible. really small details in there and came out perfectly. I'd say you could be selling these any time. YinTx Quote YinTx https://www.instagram.com/lanasia_2017/ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLK6HvLWuZTzjt3MbR0Yhcj_WIQIvchezo
Members Brown64 Posted February 3, 2018 Members Report Posted February 3, 2018 Looks really good! Quote
Members Dun Posted February 3, 2018 Members Report Posted February 3, 2018 Dang rossr these are getting better and better Quote
Rossr Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Posted February 3, 2018 8 hours ago, YinTx said: Your tooling is looking incredible. really small details in there and came out perfectly. I'd say you could be selling these any time. YinTx Some very kind words, Now would you like me to highlight what I thought were my mistakes LOL. Overall I was pretty happy with this one and knew it would be a challenge the rope part of the bead necklace took some time but looked ok in my opinion. 7 hours ago, Brown64 said: Looks really good! Thanks Sir 5 hours ago, Dun said: Dang rossr these are getting better and better Appreciate that Dun Quote
bikermutt07 Posted February 3, 2018 Report Posted February 3, 2018 Really great job, rossr. What color did you use one the outside veg? It looks perfectly applied. Process? Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members kiwican Posted February 3, 2018 Members Report Posted February 3, 2018 That is some sweet work man! Quote
Rossr Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Posted February 3, 2018 2 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: Really great job, rossr. What color did you use one the outside veg? It looks perfectly applied. Process? Hey Mutt, That is Golden Brown Pro Dye by Fiebings. I only use the pro dyes from fieblings at this point. For me its been the easiest to use and gives the most consistent result. I just wiped it on circular pattern with a hunk of sheep wool. Finished with Tan kote same think wiped on in circular fashion Kind word btw Thank you 46 minutes ago, kiwican said: That is some sweet work man! Thank you sir Quote
bikermutt07 Posted February 3, 2018 Report Posted February 3, 2018 Thanks, that's what I use. Did you reduce it? Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Rossr Posted February 3, 2018 Author Report Posted February 3, 2018 4 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: Thanks, that's what I use. Did you reduce it? Nope that was straight out of the bottle. Quote
bikermutt07 Posted February 3, 2018 Report Posted February 3, 2018 Cool. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Rossr Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Posted February 4, 2018 7 hours ago, Texson said: Well done!! Appreciate that Quote
Members Sheilajeanne Posted August 27, 2018 Members Report Posted August 27, 2018 I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front? This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio. Quote
Members ScoobyNewbie Posted August 28, 2018 Members Report Posted August 28, 2018 Oh, good! Somebody I can ask! I’ve been told that the fieblings oil dye fades. Is this true, or am I mixing up the oil with the alcohol dyes? Or are they both pretty stable? What are the benefits to oil, alchohol and water based dyes? And the problems? Quote
Rossr Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Posted August 28, 2018 16 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said: I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front? This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio. Sheila This is a interesting question. I have been trying to think what I do. It seems to me I usually just do the part I am carving. Now in the case of this padfolio there are separate front and back pieces so it isn't as much of a concern. I have also been using a spray bottle as of late and spray the whole front when I do it. I know there are lots of ways to case leather and seems everyone has their favorite. But for me the currently I like the spray bottle. I recently did a couple 5x8 padfolios. Both had one piece of leather folded over. Both I carved the front and only dampened the front when carving. I did not notice any water marks from doing that. I then did the back separately and did some stamping on the back and again didn't notice any water marks. One thing I learned a while ago was to let the piece dry completely before I dyed them. In the past I have had issues when I rushed to dye them wet. I use only the Fieblings pro dyes cause I seem to get the best results from them. As always your mileage may vary but these are my thoughts Quote
Rossr Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Posted August 28, 2018 11 hours ago, ScoobyNewbie said: Oh, good! Somebody I can ask! I’ve been told that the fieblings oil dye fades. Is this true, or am I mixing up the oil with the alcohol dyes? Or are they both pretty stable? What are the benefits to oil, alchohol and water based dyes? And the problems? Scooby I have always been confused by this .....that being said I haven't done a lot of research to understand better. I have come to use the fiebings pro dyes. I seem to get the best results for me anyway. I havent had any fading issues in my opinion from fiebings pro dye, or at least no complaints. There is a weaver leather supply video about dyes. I have no connection to weaver just saw the video. Also I am under the impression Fiebings pro dye is alcohol based see here: https://www.fiebing.com/shop/?item=42705. Fiebings used to be called Pro oil dye, but all you see now is pro dye....so not sure if there was a change or what occurred. Ross Quote
Members Sheilajeanne Posted August 28, 2018 Members Report Posted August 28, 2018 Thanks, Rossr! Good information! What I've found in the past is wetting the leather too many times dries it out, and I was worrying about this happening with a larger project like the 8 1/2 x 10 padfolio. I COULD eliminate the problem by having separate pieces for the front and back, but I really would prefer to make it out of one piece of leather, as the spine is the part of the padfolio that gets the most wear and tear, and is usually where it will eventually split and fall apart. So, planning on one piece of leather for the cover! Quote
Rossr Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Posted August 28, 2018 15 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: Thanks, Rossr! Good information! What I've found in the past is wetting the leather too many times dries it out, and I was worrying about this happening with a larger project like the 8 1/2 x 10 padfolio. I COULD eliminate the problem by having separate pieces for the front and back, but I really would prefer to make it out of one piece of leather, as the spine is the part of the padfolio that gets the most wear and tear, and is usually where it will eventually split and fall apart. So, planning on one piece of leather for the cover! So when you dye it and then add a finish does that help with the dryness? I havent had a major issue here but I dont do lots so might just be I havent noticed! https://dgsaddlery.com/properly-casing-leather/ I did a quick search and found a blog post on casing(Again I have no connection to Dgsaddlery. seemed to have some good info...and of course I know there is tons of info on search here. Would love to see your padfolio when you finish it! Ross Quote
Members chrisash Posted August 28, 2018 Members Report Posted August 28, 2018 Someone posted in a earlier post to use as close to distilled water to avoid water marks or at least reduce them from chemicals in tap water Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Members Sheilajeanne Posted August 28, 2018 Members Report Posted August 28, 2018 Rossr, I had to treat the leather with neatsfoot oil. That darkened it SO much that when I tried to dye the design I'd tooled, the dye barely showed up. This was when I tried the casing method of wetting the leather in the sink, then wrapping it in plastic and putting it in the fridge until i was ready to work on it. Have since gone back to casing by dampening with a sponge. Quote
Rossr Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Posted August 28, 2018 2 hours ago, chrisash said: Someone posted in a earlier post to use as close to distilled water to avoid water marks or at least reduce them from chemicals in tap water This is a very good point. I dont think of this much as I live in the country and have well water. but city water or any treated water may make a large difference I would imagine R Quote
Rossr Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Posted August 28, 2018 1 hour ago, Sheilajeanne said: Rossr, I had to treat the leather with neatsfoot oil. That darkened it SO much that when I tried to dye the design I'd tooled, the dye barely showed up. This was when I tried the casing method of wetting the leather in the sink, then wrapping it in plastic and putting it in the fridge until i was ready to work on it. Have since gone back to casing by dampening with a sponge. I dont use neats foot much for I found the same thing. I was always under the impression it was dye first then do the finish like neats foot oil or whatever.....I used pecards leather dressing a lot and have been happy with it. Doesnt seem to darken the leather too much and seems to keep it supple. I can see where doing the oil first would be hard to dye after for sure Ross Quote
Members Scoutmom103 Posted August 28, 2018 Members Report Posted August 28, 2018 Thank you for supporting those going back to Gilwell. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.