Sheilajeanne Report post Posted August 28, 2018 Of course, I don't NORMALLY use neatsfoot oil, but the leather was SO hard and dry by the time I finished my tooling, I was afraid it was going to crack. The same thing happened to another project I used this casing method on. That one is still sitting around, as I'm not sure what to do with it after the bad experience I had with the project mentioned above! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted August 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said: Of course, I don't NORMALLY use neatsfoot oil, but the leather was SO hard and dry by the time I finished my tooling, I was afraid it was going to crack. The same thing happened to another project I used this casing method on. That one is still sitting around, as I'm not sure what to do with it after the bad experience I had with the project mentioned above! What kind of leather ...or what tannery was it from? or was it older? Just curious Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted August 28, 2018 3 minutes ago, Scoutmom103 said: Thank you for supporting those going back to Gilwell. My pleasure scoutmom and you are welcome! We are very involved in scouting at my house and both my boys are in it. I did my woodbadge in 2015 and currently I am on staff for this years course. Back to Gilwell Happy land, Im going to work my ticket if I can.... Ross Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sheilajeanne Report post Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) Rossr, it was a veg-tan shoulder I bought from Tandy. No idea what tannery. It was pretty decent leather, and cut and tooled nicely. I just think the immersion method of casing drew some of the natural oils out of the hide, and made it hard as a board when it dried. Edited August 28, 2018 by Sheilajeanne Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted August 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said: Rossr, it was a veg-tan shoulder I bought from Tandy. No idea what tannery. It was pretty decent leather, and cut and tooled nicely. Nothing against tandy, but over the years some of the leather i got has been good some not so good. At this point I almost always get from Wickett and craig and seem to get more consistency....I wonder if that was the case here and just had a batch of leather that was iffy? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sheilajeanne Report post Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) Nope. The other project this happened to was from a kit, so not the same hide, just the same casing method! I've had some iffy leather in their kits, believe me, but this piece wasn't one of them. The flesh side was nice and smooth, and so was the grain side. Also, when I buy a shoulder or side from them, it had better be good quality, or they are not going to get my money! I've been thinking of trying other sources for leather, but importing from the States is costly, and any other leather shops here in Canada are a couple of hours drive away. Tandy is just half an hour, and I like to actually see what I'm buying in person. Edited August 28, 2018 by Sheilajeanne Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted August 28, 2018 1 minute ago, Sheilajeanne said: Nope. The other project this happened to was from a kit, so not the same hide, just the same casing method! I've had some iffy leather in their kits, believe me, but this piece wasn't one of them. The flesh side was nice and smooth, and so was the grain side. Also, when I buy a shoulder or side from them, it had better be good quality, or they are not going to get my money! I am always amazed at the differences in leather even if from the same source. Try the spray bottle method...cant hurt to try it and maybe that is a winning solution for ya. Just keep practicing.....seems to be the best thing. Experience is a great teacher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sheilajeanne Report post Posted August 28, 2018 P.S. - Rossr, I have this nasty habit of editing my posts... More info above now! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rossr Report post Posted August 28, 2018 Just now, Sheilajeanne said: P.S. - Rossr, I have this nasty habit of editing my posts... More info above now! Lol ....Yea I am very lucky I am in the states and IN Pennsylvania where wickett and craig is located. So its not hard for me to have choices. When I could see the leather at tandy I was able to get some nice stuff. Since then they closed up and the nearest one to me is like 1.5 to 2 hours away so i just order now. Much like you I wont buy from tandy less I can see it. Wickett and craig however i have had good luck buying sight unseen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted September 1, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 4:56 PM, Sheilajeanne said: I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front? This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio. Sheilajeanne, The note books, 3 ring binders, padfolios etc. that I've done, I case the entire piece before I start. I use a casing solution of my own mixture, based on a variety of casing solution recipes on this board. If I remember correctly, it has liquid glycerin saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, brown listerine, some lexol leather conditioner and a lot of purified R.O. water. As I am working, if I feel it is beginning to get to dry, I'll mist the entire thing with a water mist bottle, wait a few moments, and carry on. I have seen one individual case his leather with 50/50 saddle soap and water, seemed kinda extreme to me. But, I never get hardened leather. And I don't soak it until the bubbles stop as many do. Just enough to get the leather the correct moisture content throughout, and that usually means waiting a bit for it to even out. When I am done tooling and it is dry, I'll add any dye, and after that a very light coat of neatsfoot oil if I feel it needs it. Then on to the finishing touches such as leather balm, tan kote, antique, resolene or whatever suits your fancy. I can't imagine leather so hard it'll crack after tooling. Usually it takes hot hot water to get this reaction. YinTx On 8/27/2018 at 4:56 PM, Sheilajeanne said: I have a question for those of you who do notebooks and padfolios. When you are carving and/or stamping the front cover of the project, do you have to wet the WHOLE THING (including the back cover) to prevent water stains? Or can you get away with just wetting the front? This sort of project is on my to-do list, so enquiring minds want to know! I'd like to do both a notebook sized and a full sized (8 1/2 x 11) padfolio. Sheilajeanne, The note books, 3 ring binders, padfolios etc. that I've done, I case the entire piece before I start. I use a casing solution of my own mixture, based on a variety of casing solution recipes on this board. If I remember correctly, it has liquid glycerin saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, brown listerine, some lexol leather conditioner and a lot of purified R.O. water. As I am working, if I feel it is beginning to get to dry, I'll mist the entire thing with a water mist bottle, wait a few moments, and carry on. I have seen one individual case his leather with 50/50 saddle soap and water, seemed kinda extreme to me. But, I never get hardened leather. And I don't soak it until the bubbles stop as many do. Just enough to get the leather the correct moisture content throughout, and that usually means waiting a bit for it to even out. When I am done tooling and it is dry, I'll add any dye, and after that a very light coat of neatsfoot oil if I feel it needs it. Then on to the finishing touches such as leather balm, tan kote, antique, resolene or whatever suits your fancy. I can't imagine leather so hard it'll crack after tooling. Usually it takes hot hot water to get this reaction. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted September 1, 2018 I see there was a glitch in the matrix... YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
