garypl Posted March 15, 2018 Report Posted March 15, 2018 1 hour ago, Northmount said: Be careful of alcohol fumes being drawn through a fan where the motor is open to the fumes. The motor needs to be a non-sparking type, no switch in the motor or totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC). A spark in alcohol fumes can give you quite an unwelcome surprise! Tom Tom, I agree with you about the alcohol fumes - that's why I generally try to apply dye to large pieces outside. Thanks for bringing this important point to everyone's attention. Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members howlback Posted March 17, 2018 Members Report Posted March 17, 2018 (edited) These are mostly all Fiebing’s pro and a couple standard leather dyes. There is definitely a difference. The colors you spoke of actually vary much more than their light tan colors. I have a lot of customers ask for ridiculous colors (i.e. “electric blue” not pictured) and as mentioned before, an airbrush is the only way to go. You can dip and dob all day long but you waste a ton of dye and have little to no control over how much dye you’re applying. With an airbrush, you can spray on a few light coats back-to-back and you’re finished. No streaks, no drips plus the leather dries much faster since it’s not being drown in dye. (Disclaimer: airbrushing is a learned skill, it takes time) Edited March 17, 2018 by howlback Quote
Jimmy McLaughlin Posted March 27, 2018 Report Posted March 27, 2018 Great photo howiback, that explains it all. I also spray in my basement. I have a plastic back drop that painters use. I do have a window for ventilation and I wear a respirator . As you can see from Howlbacks photo above, how even the shades are, you just can't do that any other way, except with an airbrush. His hands are clean to, LOL,great job Howlback. Jim Quote
Members MorningStarL Posted March 30, 2018 Members Report Posted March 30, 2018 I finished a costom order last night for six matching lighter brown knife sheaths. I was dying the first Saddle Tan when I knocked the bottle over. Much cussin'. There was enought to do the second but they're both streaky and dark brown. Same bottle and (I think) same hide as two I did last week. I knew this order wuld run me out so I ordered more Wednesday night, but we had to e-mail the client to say, "Not Saturday now." i' m searching for a way to lighten what I've got. Was using a damp sponge on damp 9-10 ounce vegtan. Operation's too small for a sprayer topay off Quote
Jimmy McLaughlin Posted April 21, 2018 Report Posted April 21, 2018 Check out Harbor Fright they have a reasonable priced spray brush set. The compressor works great, I purchased a different air brush. A NEO, works great. Jim Quote
Members howlback Posted August 6, 2018 Members Report Posted August 6, 2018 Quick sidenote about airbrushing: When using an airbrush, the dye won’t penetrate as deep. When I am dyeing items that will undergo significant wear (such as belts) I tend to use a dobber instead. Obviously, my color options decrease significantly because, as mentioned before, many Fiebing’s dyes look similar (when using a dobber to apply). However, using a dobber means I can rest easy knowing my belts will wear-in without the bright paleness of the natural veg tan showing through. This is something that I haven’t been able to avoid yet when airbrushing on my dyes. If a buckle wears in the edges of the leather, you can start to see the natural veg color underneath pretty quickly. Quote
Members MorningStarL Posted August 6, 2018 Members Report Posted August 6, 2018 What about dipping? Although I can see that might be hard with a belt. Quote
Rockoboy Posted August 15, 2018 Report Posted August 15, 2018 On 7/08/2018 at 3:54 AM, MorningStarL said: What about dipping? Although I can see that might be hard with a belt. Not so difficult. I have dipped long articles by using a vertical PVC pipe. All you need to be aware of is, the volume of the pipe and the amount of dye in the pipe, and how full the pipe will be when you add the object being dyed. One idea I have never used, but considered, is after gluing end caps on to the pipe cut the piece of pipe along its length, making a long narrow trough. Use gloves to protect hands and fingers and a floor cover sheet to catch the drips, hang your object to dry. Quote Kindest regards Brian "Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right" Henry Ford Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy, Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)
Contributing Member fredk Posted August 15, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted August 15, 2018 Thats doubly clever, that pipe. For dipping belts I use plenty of dye in my dip tray and pull a belt through, one end in each hand, back and forth. It takes time and care to get an even coating of dye. I forsee a visit to a builders merchants soon for some PVC pipe. Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Rockoboy Posted August 15, 2018 Report Posted August 15, 2018 I used to dip my POC wooden arrows that way. It only took a minute to figure out how much coating to pour in the vertical pipe, then dip each arrow and hang them up to dry with a pin in one end. So much better than a brush, and spraying was not a possibility for me at that time. Quote Kindest regards Brian "Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right" Henry Ford Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy, Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)
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