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Posted

I bought mine from JB Sewing in Wales. They were amazing. Set the machine up perfectly and delivered it with an engineer to go through everything. 

http://www.jbsewing.com/typical-tw3-441

I paid around £3k all in with a speed reducer, servo motor, spare feet, etc. Very happy with it. 

Typical TSC441, Juki 1508, Singer 201, Singer 29k, Sailrite LSZ, Pfaff 238, Pfaff 335, Adler 98, Adler 166

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

Is there a conversion chart that would convert the mm to the thread #? I want to compair the Ritza sizes with the current threads e.g. #346.

On 7/7/2018 at 1:05 AM, chrisash said:

From memory 69 is just under 0.3 mm and 207 about 0.4mm or just under but the breaking strain is much wider at 11 pound ver 35 pound

Thank you!!

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Posted
30 minutes ago, jrny4wrd said:

Is there a conversion chart that would convert the mm to the thread #? I want to compair the Ritza sizes with the current threads e.g. #346.

Thank you!!

Ritza is a flat, braided thread whereas most threads are round and twisted so there's no direct comparison. The great thing about the flat threads is that they look a lot chunkier than they actually are. The other complication is if you just put a mic on a sewing thread it can squash down, especially if not bonded, so it's not too easy to get an exact measurement. There is a very handy comparison chart I refer to a lot here: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html It has diameters in decimal inches and in millimetres as well as equivalent sizes of linen thread.

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Posted
On 3/17/2018 at 6:23 PM, ZigZag said:

I bought mine from JB Sewing in Wales. They were amazing. Set the machine up perfectly and delivered it with an engineer to go through everything. 

http://www.jbsewing.com/typical-tw3-441

I paid around £3k all in with a speed reducer, servo motor, spare feet, etc. Very happy with it. 

Thanks, that's a much more reasonable price.

  • 6 months later...
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Posted

Hello group,  I have been purchasing braided poly off ebay made in USA in size 415 and 277 (for the bobbin).  The bobbin never has a problem.  The top thread, 415, would wind up terrible so I contacted the maker.  I already posted this information in a different thread not knowing that this thread was specifically about braided thread (lots of puns sorry).  The solution was obvious but I needed confirmation.  The cone was not designed to feed off the top.  Instead one needs to make a horizontal rod and allow the spool to spin on the rod as it feeds off (similar to how the bobbin feeds the thread).  Braided thread is stronger than regular.  This stuff being made in USA and bonded/waxed and white/brown/tan/black colors.  So now I'm waiting for some braided fishing line to arrive (although I truly love the braided poly and the mfg from USA I have long lead times getting it here overseas).  So I bought some braided fishing UHMWPE line.  The stuff rated at 80lbs is 0.5mm so perfect for a size 23 needle which is max for my Singer 112w-139 and the size 42 is slightly smaller than ticket 30 so perfect for the bobbin and seriously strong stuff.  UHMWPE is super UV resistant and has abrasion far beyond the best Nylon plus the extra strength.  So, I read people say that if the thread is too strong it will rip the material before the thread breaks.  I believe in this 80lb smaller size than 207 (approximately) top and the slightly less than ticket 30 42lb  (in the bobbin ) is ideal for a machine like the 112w-139 or Consew 206rb etc.  And I get free shipping on it.  We use commercial device that fits onto the spool pin and uses silicone lube on the thread.  With the fishing line I'd use the silicone lube pot and feed it sideways off the horizontal spool like the braided poly (size 415 is rated at 95lbs ! ).  We are setting up to weave on a hand loom next week (12 shaft homebrew countermarch) and I've even considered trying to make a rip stop on steroids with braided thread in the rip stop portion.  It'll be interesting for a project.  Best regards, Mike

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