Tips needed for machine sewing curves in 4-5 oz leather

[Cami]

Hi,

I’m struggling with machine sewing rounded corners for a bag on thick leather, 4-5 oz. I glued securely before stitching, but am still having problems with the material shifting around the curves. I’m sewing a flat front and back panel to a side strip. Do I need to wet the leather and mold it first? Also, any tips for avoiding marks from my clamps and presser feet? I’d appreciate any help. 

[JD62]

Hi Cami, I think we need a little more information before we can give good answers. What type machine are you using, are you able to slow it down to nearly one stitch at a time?  Are you sewing two layers at a time or 3? Is 4 to 5 oz. total thickness or just one layer? Once all this is sorted you'll probably get lots of help!

[Cami]

Hi JD62, I’m sewing two layers together. Each layer is 4-5 oz. I’m using a Consew 227R which has a post bed and can be slowed down to one stitch at a time.

[AdamPCain]

I use a Juki 1541s when I go around a corner I have to stop with the needle down in the corner. Then lift the presser foot up and pivot the material then drop the presser foot. Depending on the radius I will do this the couple times going around. Works good for me, if your material is shifting your presser foot pressure might need to me increased.

[Northmount]

Be careful not to lift the presser foot too high and lose your top tension.  Just ease it up enough to be able to turn the leather a little.  If you lift the foot and turn before the hook has grabbed the loop, you could drop a stitch.  So best to wait to turn until the needle has risen maybe 1/4" but still well into the leather.

Tom

 

[RockyAussie]

On 03/03/2018 at 4:22 AM, Cami said:

Hi,

I’m struggling with machine sewing rounded corners for a bag on thick leather, 4-5 oz. I glued securely before stitching, but am still having problems with the material shifting around the curves. I’m sewing a flat front and back panel to a side strip. Do I need to wet the leather and mold it first? Also, any tips for avoiding marks from my clamps and presser feet? I’d appreciate any help. 

If you are getting feet marks you may have the foot tension too high and that can lead to your layers shifting and squirming around somewhat. Lifting the foot a little as you go can help but will slow it down as well.

 

9 hours ago, Cami said:

I’m using a Consew 227R which has a post bed

I understand that the 227R is a cylinder machine and am wondering what you mean by saying it having a post bed? A couple of pictures of the machine and the job would help I think. Brian

[Cami]

Thanks for the tips! I’ll experiment with my foot tension today. I’ve also occasionally had missed stitches, so I’ll pay more attention to needle position when turning my piece. Brian, you’re right, pictures would help. I’ll post some if I’m still struggling.

[Northmount]

Need enough presser foot pressure to stop the leather from lifting.  That also causes skipped stitches.

Tom