Randoseru style leather backpack build video

[Aza404]

Thanks Bob for the praise! Yes she is very happy with it though the straps turned out too long so I'll have to shorten them... but if that's the only problem then I'm pleased

[YinTx]

Nice work on the bag, and thanks for the build along video.

I have always wondered in the back of my mind if Fiebeng's called their dye "Oil Dye" expecting it to be mixed with oil before being applied to the leather.  I have heard that true oil based dyes give a more even color since they don't soak so readily into the leather. I tried on some scrap leather, and it dyed nicely, but I found the leather to be too soaked with oil, and no matter how much or how long I buffed, I was still getting dye off of the leather and onto the rag.  So I was amazed to see you put so many coats of dye/oil mix on, then follow that up with even more oil on the bag.  Do you find the leather to still be oily?

I know you asked in your video about whether or not we consider shoe polish to be a good leather finish.  I have used it on some items such as belts, and I think it works, it was intended to be used on boots etc and resist water, mud etc.  That being said, I feel it didn't penetrate very far into the leather.  For that reason, I like the beeswax/neatsfoot oil blends, and even the petroleum jelly based Aussie, since they do soak into the leather a bit.  Especially if you apply a bit of heat.  The beeswax gives the leather that nice matte shine finish and water resistance, and the oils really bring out the colors.  I have found doing this means I use less neatsfoot oil in the first round after dye.  And I really like the odor better, less like the chemical scent of shoe polish.  And if I need more weather protection, Resolene or Angelus acrylic finishes have worked well for me.  Just my take.   

Also, I really appreciate your commentary on things that worked well, and things you would do differently.  This is the type of thing that allows me to learn without having to go through the same experience!

YinTx

[Aza404]

Thanks YinTx for all the great feedback!

I've heard that Fiebing's Oil Dye is still alcohol based but made specifically for veg tanned leathers... Not sure if this is true, however I have tested diluting it with 100% pure alcohol instead of Neatsfoot oil and that gave me incredible results (though the leather had to be oiled up again after). I don't find the bag to be oily at all but I do not think I'll use that technique again as I was not able to get a consistent enough finish without many many coats.

I have to try your beeswax/neatsfoot oil technique also next time. Do you prepare it yourself? What quantities? Do you have to warm it up to melt the beeswax? Would love to know more on this. I have used a product called Le Phoque oil which you can get here (a whitish paste that applies onto/into the leather with the heat from rubbing it with your hands) and have had nice mat results.

[billybopp]

Fiebings Pro Oil Dye (now just Pro Dye) is an alcohol based dye, as is their regular leather dye (according to their website).  The oil part of the name was used to denote synthetic pigments, made from petroleum.  Synthetic pigments tend to yield more intense colors than do other pigments and can be more colorfast.  

I also use like the beeswax/NFO blend finish.  It's not too shiny, not too dull.  Just right for many things.  Use more or less equal amounts of NFO and beeswax melted together in a glass jar in a warm water bath.  I use my crock pot on low setting.  You can adjust the proportions to get something a little softer(more NFO) or harder(more wax).  It can be poured into cupcake tins, or even empty chapstick/lipstick containers for use, and sometimes include some with items that I make for folks so they can refresh the finish when needed.  A little heat from a hairdryer and some buffing really help it to penetrate the leather.

I've experimented a little bit with adding a little paraffin wax and carnauba wax, but haven't come to any decision on those yet.

- Bill

[YinTx]

6 hours ago, Aza404 said:

Thanks YinTx for all the great feedback!

I've heard that Fiebing's Oil Dye is still alcohol based but made specifically for veg tanned leathers... Not sure if this is true, however I have tested diluting it with 100% pure alcohol instead of Neatsfoot oil and that gave me incredible results (though the leather had to be oiled up again after). I don't find the bag to be oily at all but I do not think I'll use that technique again as I was not able to get a consistent enough finish without many many coats.

I have to try your beeswax/neatsfoot oil technique also next time. Do you prepare it yourself? What quantities? Do you have to warm it up to melt the beeswax? Would love to know more on this. I have used a product called Le Phoque oil which you can get here (a whitish paste that applies onto/into the leather with the heat from rubbing it with your hands) and have had nice mat results.

I think most of us dilute the Fiebing's dye with alchohol, some with isopropyl, others with Denatured Alcohol.  There are oil dyes out there, I think Weaver's sells some.  You do have to oil well after using the alcohol diluted dye, as it seems to dry out the leather.

I have one dye procedure that indicates you should completely wet the leather with water, let it dry a bit, then completely wet the leather with diluted dye in an attempt to even out the colors.  The theory was sound, the colors were even, but the colors came out really light for my taste.

Streaky and mottled is something most of us seem to be trying to avoid, but always end up with unless you spray or dip or use oil dyes.

The beeswax/neatsfoot oil concoctions are typically made yourself.  I have not yet, but plan to as soon as I use up the materials I already have.  Various recipes abound on this site as well as the web in general, some using just the two ingredients, others using lanolin, essential oils, and waxes such as carnauba in addition, and in various proportions.  You kind of have to experiment to see what works for you.  Usually melted in a double boiler or a crock pot, as Bill mentioned.

YinTx

[Aza404]

Thanks guys for the great feedback! I'll definitely give the neatsfoot oil and beeswax mix a try

[baroness]

Note about comment in the video, if the stitching failed at some point you wouldn't have to replace the entire length.  Or even pull much out.  You could overlap it with some replacement thread to anchor it in.  Use some thinner thread so it isn't as noticeable.  By the time the stitching failed the bag would have seen some good use and look more rustic.

Have you had any problem with the shoe polish rubbing off onto clothing, etc.?

 

I like the bag and the video.  I'm a big fan of the comments about why you chose to do things the way you did.

[Aza404]

9 hours ago, baroness said:

Note about comment in the video, if the stitching failed at some point you wouldn't have to replace the entire length.

Have you had any problem with the shoe polish rubbing off onto clothing, etc.?

Thanks Baroness for the kind words

Indeed I hadn't though about the obvious stitching failure solution: that makes a lot more sense than replacing all of it =)

I have not had any issues yet with the shoe polish rubbing off: it has not been long using the bag so it's hard to tell, but if you polish it properly, there should be no residue there. If that happens in the future I'll be sue to mention it.

[Double Daddy]

Nice pack, Aza404...great video to watch as well. Great stitch work...

While I have an air brush system that I bought to spray larger pieces of leather, I have yet to set it up and try it. I usually use large pieces of wool when dyeing bigger pieces (and even in most cases the smaller ones!)...I find that it give me fewer streaks than using daubers, at least the way that I apply it anyway...YMMV

I will occasionally do a saddle soap "wash" after dyeing...it deepens the color somewhat and evens things out a bit as well as gives it a bit of a shine too if you buff it with a cloth. I especially like to do this on thinner stock that I'm gonna cut wallet or journal pieces from...easier at this stage than later on. I even do this on holsters before my NFO application.

There is a Fiebings dye thinner but its ridiculously expensive compared to denatured alcohol which works just as well for any reducing...it's what I use for the bolder colors (reds, blues, greens, etc)

Resolene is my go-to acrylic finish...at the moment...but that's only because I have so much of it in stock. Quite a few of the more seasoned pro's over in the Holster & Sheath sub-forum have touted equal praises for Mop n' Glo...yep, the same stuff our mothers put on the kitchen floor...they are both acrylic coatings...turns out, many holster makers have been using the stuff for years as a clear finish (not the lemon scented stuff...unless you just want to)...it's the same as Resolene, just no where near as expensive and available nearly everywhere. Mix it 50/50 with water and brush on or airbrush.

[Aza404]

Thanks Double Daddy for all the tips! I'm glad you liked the video =)

I have a 5 liter bottle of denatured alcohol that I have used since to thin dye and it worked out great (I need to finish the video of that). I'll probably stick to that from now on.

When you say "saddle soap wash" what does that mean? I know what saddle soap is but what exactly does your wash imply? 

I'm really looking forward to get more experience in this, there's so much to learn and so many ways to improve :D