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Thank you for your explanation :-) The question came to my mind when looking at your picture of the (finished) gussets. There is a crease mark on it and from that crease mark to the edge the leather is black (on that picture with that lovely edge paint this applies also to the section where there is no edge paint yet). So, that is also "lining excess" that you left there intentionally or how did you achieve that dark border? Sorry for the extra question but that looks so nice, I have to know how it's done. 

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Posted
13 hours ago, charon said:

Thank you for your explanation :-) The question came to my mind when looking at your picture of the (finished) gussets. There is a crease mark on it and from that crease mark to the edge the leather is black (on that picture with that lovely edge paint this applies also to the section where there is no edge paint yet). So, that is also "lining excess" that you left there intentionally or how did you achieve that dark border? Sorry for the extra question but that looks so nice, I have to know how it's done. 

Ah ok! My apologies! I think that is from unintentionally being a little too slow with my heated edge creaser, which left the edge black. It may also have to do with the angle I held the creaser at. Good news is, it didn’t seem to damage the edge at all!

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Posted
On 4/18/2018 at 4:54 AM, charon said:

Next time do it intentionally and call it special technique :-) I totally like the look it gives.

I like that strategy!

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Posted (edited)

So, getting close to the end now! Made some good progress last day or so, on edging the straps and stitching in the gussets. 

Using a slightly different approach on the gussets this time; I’m making the stitching holes on both the main body and the gusset (using my KS irons) the whole way around. I designed the gusset so that the stitching line is (theoretically) the exact same length as the stitching line on the main body. I made the stitch holes on the gusset pieces from the inside, to keep the slant aligned. Then, I just lined up the pieces and stitched, no glue.

Started on the straight stretches on both sides so that I could hold the piece in the stitching pony for as much as possible before folding around the rest of the gussets. 

4B632F00-4990-4045-9DF0-A4B865D2FE1F.jpeg

83D09266-9F42-48F4-9743-37821441597B.jpeg

540A7687-3338-4E42-90C4-B74053A622F2.jpeg

07CFE67B-B5F6-4FD0-9BC4-3663BF156A5C.jpeg

Edited by motocouture
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Posted
18 hours ago, motocouture said:

So, getting close to the end now! Made some good progress last day or so, on edging the straps and stitching in the gussets. 

Using a slightly different approach on the gussets this time; I’m making the stitching holes on both the main body and the gusset (using my KS irons) the whole way around. I designed the gusset so that the stitching line is (theoretically) the exact same length as the stitching line on the main body. I made the stitch holes on the gusset pieces from the inside, to keep the slant aligned. Then, I just lined up the pieces and stitched, no glue.

Started on the straight stretches on both sides so that I could hold the piece in the stitching pony for as much as possible before folding around the rest of the gussets. 

4B632F00-4990-4045-9DF0-A4B865D2FE1F.jpeg

83D09266-9F42-48F4-9743-37821441597B.jpeg

540A7687-3338-4E42-90C4-B74053A622F2.jpeg

07CFE67B-B5F6-4FD0-9BC4-3663BF156A5C.jpeg

Is that your pattern. If so have thought about selling it PDF file. 

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Posted

It’s turning out really nice! Lovely work.

I bought a set of inverse stitching chisels so as I could line up pieces like you and they work very well. 

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Posted
5 hours ago, Joseph1836 said:

Is that your pattern. If so have thought about selling it PDF file. 

Yes, it is, drafted it from scratch.  I hadn’t, but if there’s appetite for it, would be willing to give it a shot!

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Posted
4 hours ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

It’s turning out really nice! Lovely work.

I bought a set of inverse stitching chisels so as I could line up pieces like you and they work very well. 

Thank you so much! I’m really enjoying working with the croc. Needs a little more TLC, but works up beautifully.

Been thinking about the inverse chisels, definitely on my wish list...

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Posted

Here’s a shot of the gusset being stitched, using a few needles to line up the stitching holes. I also dampened the bottom of gusset and the bend in the main body, and shaped both a little to help ease the leather through the curve. 

7F473A56-0314-4E25-8BCF-12976AE74495.jpeg

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