Softening Herman Oak Skirting

[fivewayswelshcobs]

Hi , 3/8" work is fiddly but worth it on fine ponies, it makes a massive difference to the appearance. Keepers are normally sewn with 3 stitches across, 2 rows in back stitch or single hand so really only takes very little time.

For a basic turnout headcollar/ halter I would keep it simple, if the nose is a single layer apart from the turn backs then if caught they will break especially if not too thick, cheaper to repair than a damaged horse.

Steinke's book is Ok For basics but there is alot of detail missing , good for sizing when starting.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

22 hours ago, Silverd said:

Hummmm...not liking what I'm hearing, but I understand what you are saying.  I'd be better off making western tack, certainly to start with.  My first equine product effort I'm planning are the Turn Out haulters for the local Charity. They appear very makable with equipment and skill set I currently have.  I also ordered the book Bridlework, by Robert Steinke.  Any good do you know?  I'll reassess the English bridle work activity going forward as you recommend.

Silverd 

 

 

If you are relatively new to leatherwork in general, and building tack specifically, then yes, you would definitely be less discouraged to start with western tack.  This is true especially if there is nobody in your area to apprentice under, or at least offer some help, and if you don't have access to high end equipment to study. The book by Steinke is ok; I have it and refer to it occasionally, especially for the size charts.  I have never seen a book that COMPLETEY covers a subject however.  It seems there is always some critical information lacking.  The turnout halters will be a good project to get your feet wet.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

12 minutes ago, fivewayswelshcobs said:

Keepers are normally sewn with 3 stitches across, 2 rows in back stitch or single hand so really only takes very little time.

It's not the running loops that I mind; as you said, they go rather quickly.  It's the buckle returns and hook studs with standing loops that take too much time for me.

[Silverd]

Bridle work:  Challenging Work and the Weekend Plan

A very exciting time.  This weekend I'm putting everything together; my new equipment,  new processes, what I've learned from reading and practice making, what this group has taught me and with the help of an awesome assistant and a bunch of luck I intend to make my first of five Halter sets.  This is my plan:

-I'm starting with a full hide of Herman Oak untreated Skirting with a straight edge cut on the belly side. 

-A Weaver hand crank slitter set up with the proper spacers and cutters;  Making prototype halters for a local Equine rescue center that lost tack in the CA fires last year + we'll cut a few extra sets of straps to cover my mistakes.

-A Weaver Easy Edger set up to bevel 10-12oz straps

-An American splitter with a freshly Tormek sharpened hollow ground and honed blade

-A Landis 5 in 1 with freshly hollow ground blade (for skiving buckle returns)

 -A Randal creaser for decorative grooving the straps

 -A Weaver bench mounted edge slicker and bar of saddle soap

-An oil warming Crock Pot

 -A Gallon of Saddle Oil and a tub of expensive leather wax

-An old E-bay purchased halter that will be my design target and hardware cannibal; a range of sizes will be attempted using measurements listed in the Bridlework: by Robert Steinke

-An experienced Seamstress & Equine Extraordinaire helper to keep me straight

-A Chinese 441 set-up and ready to roll with 138 thread (which I think is right).  

More to follow...Wish me luck!   

Silverd

Edited June 22, 2018 by Silverd
rewording for clarity

[Rockoboy]

1 hour ago, Silverd said:

Wish me luck!

Sounds like you have it all in place and raring to go.

With all the machines, tools and expert guidance, I am sure you will turn out some good tack.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I would not sew tack with 138 thread, WAY too light.  Working and using stuff normally gets 277 for bridles and halters, unless draft stuff, then maybe 346.  Finer stuff and show equipment might go down to 207, but never below that. 

Best of luck! 

 

[Silverd]

Quote

 

 

1 hour ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

I would not sew tack with 138 thread, WAY too light.  Working and using stuff normally gets 277 for bridles and halters, unless draft stuff, then maybe 346.  Finer stuff and show equipment might go down to 207, but never below that. 

Best of luck! 

 

Ok..   Great info.  I'll do just that.  Thank you! 

On another note since the topic or robust construction has surfaced.   Somewhere up away in this string someone suggested that a Turn-out Halter should be designed or constructed at least to pull apart if the horse gets it caught on something...Fence, barn door latch etc.  The sample I'm using is not like this that I can tell but I'm not sure if its a true Turn-out halter.   Are Turn-out halters made exclusively with a break  away feature and other halter types made stronger?

Silver

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

If you make the halter out of leather, it will break if a horse gets caught.  It is nearly impossible to make a leather halter strong enough to NOT break.  That's why single ply leather halters are often referred to as turnout halters.  A pretty, doubled and stitched leather halter will break also, but why go to all that work for a turnout halter?  Personally, when I make turnout halters, they are all single ply leather with riveted laps, like the old time draft farm halters. It's a good way to use short scrap that may not be from the best part of the hide.  Straps cut from necks and shoulders work just fine to turn out on a horse, whereas you wouldn't ant to use them for high-end stuff.  Occasionally I will have a client request a leather crown put on a nylon halter, so it can be used to turn out. BUT, I would check with the client first and find out just exactly what they are expecting.

The fact is, it's nearly impossible to make ANY halter unbreakable, unless it's a tied rope halter.  The hardware that is available to us today is simply not strong enough to withstand a 1000 lbs (or 2000lbs) setting back against it when tied to something solid.  However, when turned out, horses rub their heads on whatever is available, and it's all too easy for them to get caught in a way that they hang themselves and the halter doesn't break. 

[Silverd]

So much really appropriate first hand information.  Thank you again Big Sioux. You have been very influential in my making path.  I got strips cut for the prototype haulters this am.  They are mostly from the belly side of the hide at this point.  I trimmed the shoulder end off the hide a bit.  Cut enough material for five haulters if I don' screw up too much!  Do you recommend Beveling all of them at this point?  

Silverd 

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Sorry Silver, I only saw your last comment just now.  You've probably already done what you were going to do, but I would bevel ONLY if you were going to make a riveted halter.  If you are going to line it and stitch,  I'd bevel the folds and wait with the rest until after you sew together.  If you don't, you'll find out why I said that