Western Holsters and Adjustable Sights

[bradkincaid]

Hi,

I just finished up my third holster, and I need to reflect and make adjustments for the next one. The holster is a Threepersons holster for a Ruger Blackhawk and I am overall very pleased with the result. My biggest concern is how the prominent front sight of the Blackhawk fits in the holster. Whenever the gun is drawn, the serrated face of the front sight comes out with some leather shavings on it. The holster is unlined and otherwise fits the gun fine. There is no clear interference when drawing or holstering. This may not be a problem, but I fear that the front sight will eventually dig through the holster.

For those that make western/traditional/Threepersons holsters for guns with prominent front sights, how do you adjust your patterns? My pattern fits the gun really well in terms of retention, so I don't think I missed the mark too much in the overall pattern, but maybe there is a way to make a little room for the front sight. Maybe by rotating the gun differently when tracing for the pattern?

I know modern holsters wet mold and bone around a sight channel, but these traditional field holsters don't look right with that wet molded treatment and I don't think it was traditionally done. Certainly when I see photos of Elmer Keith's holsters or Lawrence holsters they aren't molded.

I've got a couple more revolvers that need homes, both with ramped front sights, so any help going into the next projects is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[olfart]

How about a plastic/Kydex sight channel stitched and/or glued into the front of the holster? 

[dikman]

I shape a piece of dowel to sit behind the sight and along the top of the barrel and tape it in place. This ensures that when the holster is folded around the revolver adequate clearance is left for the sight. Mind you, I'm making traditional-style holsters for traditional-style revolvers with traditional sights, i.e. a blade.

[plinkercases]

Even if you are not form fitting the holster for friction retention but just for a good seating you can use the dowel method above to form a sight channel in  a more loosely molded/boned holster. It will make a difference on the flesh side even if it doesn't show on the outside.

Also make sure you really slick the flesh side along that part of the holster to flatten/harden the fibres so they aren't catching. you may even be able bone a very slight and smooth channel inside before you fold and sew the pouch.

Sometimes if you can look into the holster and see the spot(s) where the site is really dragging and if it is just a the top as a result of the angle of the draw you can modify the throat contour to have the sight clear the leather a little sooner.

I have had to use a combination of the above at times.... and sometimes it can be fully eliminated.

[alpha2]

One more thing, if you can leave a little extra room under (away from the fold) the end of the barrel/ejector rod housing, it allows the front of the barrel to move away from the fold as the gun is drawn. As you're drawing with the grip, well below the bore-line, the sight will naturally move away from the fold a bit.

Jeff

[Josh Ashman]

Hello Brad,

I make a few of these types of holsters for this same gun (as well as similar types) and there are a few things you can do. Depending on the finish I'll often dunk the holster in water for a few seconds after it's stitched up and insert the pistol. I understand that you don't want to detail mold it, but you can twist it a little and lightly pinch along the sight channel. Work the pistol in and out a few times and try to "pre-shape" the entire holster a little. Focus on the sight channel as much as you feel necessary. You can also take a bone folder (mine's plastic) and work it from the toe of the holster to shape in a bit of a sight channel, again not detail molding it, just rough shaping it by stretching the leather a little. FYI, I don't do this for heavily tooled holsters with an antique finish. In my experience doing so "washes out" some of the detailing and it causes the antique to "streak" both of which I find undesirable. Instead of dunking these types of holsters I wet the inside with a sponge, trying to get it wet enough to accomplish the same basic thing but not so wet as to bleed through to the front. Another thing you can do is to adjust your pattern a little to give you some more room. It sounds like you had everything else just like you liked it so an 1/8" or so should be plenty. When I make these types of holsters a little more room typically isn't an issue. And finally, since this holster is built, I'd just use it. The more you use it the more the sight will work in its own channel. Worst case is you wear a little of the finish off the front sight and dig a little into the holster. I've had a few personal holsters that did the same thing you mentioned and it wasn't a problem for me. The guns involved weren't "safe queens" and the holsters stopped wearing on the sight channel long before it compromised the holster. That said, if a customer ever came back and reported the same issue I'd build them a new one if that's what they wanted. Different people place varying levels of importance on these things which is understandable and to be expected.

Good luck moving forward!

Josh

[bradkincaid]

I really appreciate the help guys.

I will try to implement a slight adjustment in my pattern drawing with my next holsters, leaving more room around the end of the barrel. I will also slick the fold area down on the next ones.

For the one that is already built, I will moisten the fold area with a sponge from the inside and attempt some light molding, using the dowel rod technique. I expect that will relieve some pressure.

While we are on the topic of adjustable sights, has anyone built a holster like this (http://www.sixguns.com/show2/12/008.jpg), where the rear sights are protected? It looks pretty straightforward, like I simply extend my template up and over the sights, but I get the feeling that the sights would snag and dig in to the leather.

[alpha2]

I can see where that would happen, unless you formed it appropriately when making the holster. Those adjustable sights tend to have some sharp square corners.

 

[plinkercases]

2 hours ago, bradkincaid said:

I really appreciate the help guys.

I will try to implement a slight adjustment in my pattern drawing with my next holsters, leaving more room around the end of the barrel. I will also slick the fold area down on the next ones.

For the one that is already built, I will moisten the fold area with a sponge from the inside and attempt some light molding, using the dowel rod technique. I expect that will relieve some pressure.

While we are on the topic of adjustable sights, has anyone built a holster like this (http://www.sixguns.com/show2/12/008.jpg), where the rear sights are protected? It looks pretty straightforward, like I simply extend my template up and over the sights, but I get the feeling that the sights would snag and dig in to the leather.

wrt to the holster where the throat comes up over the rear sights....Yes I have and again the answer is a planning the pattern and then a little wet forming and running the gun in and out to make the higher leather recurve at the sights protects them but does not hit them.

Somewhere I have a book that talks about this very issue and I recall the process being as I have described.

Patterning and forming for revolvers is one thing but the "art" gets little more complex with semi-autos where you want to watch the "form" doesn't then interfere with function as in a holster that releases mags or engages safeties.... or racks slides back enough to move the hammer.

 

[alpha2]

1 hour ago, plinkercases said:

or racks slides back enough to move the hammer.

Yes! You have to be very careful to make sure that you see that the slide STAYS forward when forming a holster for the semi-auto. It won't do it, if you don't make it do it! In fact, make sure to jam it in there to give it just a bit more room.

Jeff

[plinkercases]

My hand gun instructor also taught me to put my thumb in the hammer or back of slide when holtering so i had had certainty that nothing moved.

Unless of course you carry cocked and locked.....