Members rockthecasbah121 Posted July 6, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 6, 2018 5 minutes ago, dikman said: Well, there's no keyway, but I'm not sure why it has what appears to be a sleeve between the shaft and the pulley, that's usually only done when the pulley is too big for the shaft. Have you tried removing the grub screw completely and twisting the pulley to see if it's screwed on? If you can't get the pulley off I wouldn't worry too much as from what you've said about using it if you buy one of the commercially available speed reducers (one with a BIG pulley and a small one) I'm sure that will solve your problem. I’m thinking about leaving it on. The shaft size seems to be a strange one at 11/16”- I’m assuming I’d have to get that custom made. Quote
Members dikman Posted July 6, 2018 Members Report Posted July 6, 2018 Probably a good idea . There have been times when I've been determined to remove/fix something that I should have left alone and I end up creating more work for myself! There are two basic styles of reducers available (have a look at the sponsors' sites here) - the box type, where the box frame mounts in place of the motor, which then mounts to the bottom of the box, and the reducer shaft and pulleys are mounted in the box, or the single-mounting type which has a heavy duty casting that screws to the bottom of the table and the pulley stack "hangs" off the side. Go for the one with the biggest pulley. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members BDAZ Posted July 7, 2018 Members Report Posted July 7, 2018 7 hours ago, Constabulary said: could you explain that please What do wee need I did a thread on it a few years ago. You simply change the values on the resistors controlling the motor speed. Very simple circuit, since the speed controller is a variable resistor. I either added or removed resistance. I have been using is ever since and works like a champ. I won't be doing and sail making with this setup but great for very slow and accurate stitching. Bob Quote
Members rockthecasbah121 Posted July 7, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 7, 2018 Ok- 3-6-9 pulley reducer ordered with 3 day shipping. I’ll let everyone know how it goes installing it and seeing how it works. Quote
garypl Posted July 7, 2018 Report Posted July 7, 2018 23 hours ago, garypl said: I saw a box type speed reducer sold on eBay for $210 Bought a box speed reducer today from Cowboy Bob - $190. Box mounts under table and motor mounts under the box. Should slow down my machine so I can better control it! Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Members bullmoosepaddles Posted July 7, 2018 Members Report Posted July 7, 2018 @rockthecasbah121 Try a little WD40 or the like if you want to get the smaller pulley. My motor shaft does not have a key, it has a divot in the motor shaft that the Allen screw tightens into. Most good hardware stores have bushings for adapting such differences. The bushing in the link below is over priced. But it is what you would need in a shorter length. With no key way the Allen screw will just go through the key way spacing into the divot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-16-ID-X-3-4-OD-X-3-Shaft-Adapter-Motor-Pulley-Bore-Reducer-Bushing/372320001699?hash=item56b0005ea3:g:LJYAAOSwPYZU96se Quote
Members bullmoosepaddles Posted July 7, 2018 Members Report Posted July 7, 2018 10 minutes ago, garypl said: Bought a box speed reducer today from Cowboy Bob - $190. Box mounts under table and motor mounts under the box. Should slow down my machine so I can better control it! Your new reducer sure beats the instillation of the cast ones. Quote
garypl Posted July 7, 2018 Report Posted July 7, 2018 28 minutes ago, bullmoosepaddles said: Your new reducer sure beats the instillation of the cast ones. I think it will be a neater solution. Bob says I probably will not have to cut out the slot in the table. I’ll post results after I get it installed. Gary Quote Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
DonInReno Posted July 7, 2018 Report Posted July 7, 2018 3 hours ago, rockthecasbah121 said: I assumed all I had to do was loosen the set screw and slide it off, but it feels like I’m going to break my hex socket before it budges. If you need to loosen that set screw (or any tight screw) I'll first use a screwdriver bit that fits and give it a hammer smack - often times that's all it takes to get a stiff screw to let loose. If that doesn't work I'll heat it with a torch just until a little water starts to boil off and no more. 200 degrees is hot enough to loosen any glue or thread locker if present, and expand the parts just a tiny amount without damaging anything. If that doesn't work I'll cool it with canned air turned upside down to get the really cool liquid (usually r134 refrigerant), reheat with the torch and then smack the screw with a driver bit and hammer. That usually takes care of it. If the screw strips out you drill it out with a drill bit just smaller than the threads - it takes all the pressure off the threads and an easy out or triangle file jammed into the hole turns it out easily. Quote
Members rockthecasbah121 Posted July 13, 2018 Author Members Report Posted July 13, 2018 After about four hours, the new pulley is on. My bobbin winder may not fit back on afterwards, but that’s ok. I will need to cut out some additional room for the belt and also get a new belt for the motor to fit around the largest wheel- the one it came with left it slightly too loose. Right now I have the motor going to the 6 inch pulley and the sewing machine going to the 3 inch. Anyone have any idea what that reduction on speed ends up being? Even in this configuration, it’s a lot more manageable. Quote
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