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Sheilajeanne

Gussets On Bag

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Okay, now that I've quite unexpectedly sold my first messenger bag, I am going to make a second.

Now, the Tandy kit I used had the gussets taper slightly towards the bottom. The bottom was rounded and had a split in it. It was freakin' hard to sew!

I am planning to eliminate the back pocket, so I won't be dealing with so many thicknesses of leather. What I want to know is why was the gusset shaped that way, and will I get into any trouble if I just make it rectangular and the same width all the way down?

The flap of the bag was slightly taper at the top. I'm guessing this was to keep it from hitting the straps when opened?

Ferg has suggested making front, back and flap all of one piece, but since the flap will be tooled, I'd rather make it a separate piece, so the wetting of the leather for tooling won't affect the rest of the bag. My cutting table is kind of small, too, and it just will make things easier to handle.

As for the design, well, this one's for you, Mjolnir! B)

 

 

Mjolnir triqueta.JPG

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Just as a side note, I downloaded a free alternate pattern for this bag quite some time ago. I decided to print it up to see what the dimensions of the flap were.

Hmm...the design is 14 inches long. I take a close look at the picture of the bag with this design on the flap:

Notice something funny?5b5416265519b_verticalbag.JPG.dea14361c4ab11234150d9f2f3c3e02e.JPG

Yeah. There's NO WAY that bag is supposed to be 14 inches in ANY of its dimensions! I did find the dimensions on the Tandy website and it's 9 x11. But the pattern damn well isn't. Not only that, the pattern is supposed to go with the long dimension ACROSS the bag!

I'm having fun imagining myself (or anyone else!) trying to use this 14 inch long pattern on a 9 inch wide bag... :blink:

 

Well you know what they say: you get what you pay for! And the pattern WAS free...:rolleyes2:

Edited by Sheilajeanne

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Ian Atkinson at Leodis Leather does a template for a messenger bag with a free video to show all the steps, which I think is full size  think the site is on etsy also Nigel Armatage does a version with Video, just check both names on youtube

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I do find photo copiers , ( and the ' ye olde'  XP publisher ) very handy for changing the size of  patterns. I've become very adept at modifying patterns to suit a project like  changing,   adding  or 'omitting'  bits of a pattern to make things fit without it looking obvious. 

That pattern looks a bit like " Celtic Knot"  type pattern  that I love doing.

Nice bag btw :) 

HS 

Edited by Handstitched

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I've picked up a few craft aids. As far as other templates I've made my own. (I have the dubble curse of being cheep and broke!)  It may seem hard at first. But over the years I've developed a system.  Start with a sketch ( I'm no artist but at least I know what I'm going for.)then a mechanical drawing with some quick ideas of the measurements. Then a drawing on some graft paper. With the tolerances included.  (Space for stitch lines ext. I use 1/4 inch for 2 stitch line 1/8 inch for 1.)

Then a mock up in paper. Taped together for the final form. Make adjustments as needed. When I'm ready to start I cut it out in stiffer paper and start the work.  Now a days the thick paper I work with is looking ragged and soon I will make them in something less easily damaged like thin plastic or even wood. 

I know it dose not answer your question out right but this may help. Try it on paper and see if it fits your needs.

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8 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Well you know what they say: you get what you pay for! And the pattern WAS free...:rolleyes2:

http://www.jlsleather.com/compare-items/

I wouldn't think a tapered gusset would affect construction, except perhaps the length of the flap.  But, I do hate that dark thread on a light project.

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Handstitched, I've found a way to resize patterns too. I used to be able to use my printer for it, but the newest one doesn't work that way. However, I've found a way around it: scan the pattern as a PDF. You can then tell the PDF program to reduce the size by X %, and it will oblige you...

Anyhoo, what I'm hoping is someone who's had experience with making this type of bag will chime in as to why the gussets were shaped that way, and what will happen if I change the shape...

Oh, and BTW, in case you missed it:  

  :) A leather crafter on FB told me I sold it too cheap!  :lol:

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JL, the bag in the picture was just Tandy's illustration for the pattern. NOT planning to copy it, though I briefly toyed with the idea of using the tooling design. Sticking with Thor's triqueta instead... 

Yeah, when I was doing the Celtic bag, I looked at the thread Tandy had provided (VERY thick, and very black) and said nope, nope, nope. Off to Tandy's because they said they had large spools of handstitching thread on sale. Bummer...it was only the BLACK thread on sale! I finally settled for a small spool of brown thread, that cost me only a couple of bucks and was more than enough to do the project.

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6 hours ago, chrisash said:

Ian Atkinson at Leodis Leather does a template for a messenger bag with a free video to show all the steps, which I think is full size  think the site is on etsy also Nigel Armatage does a version with Video, just check both names on youtube

Thanks, Chris, checking them both out!

Edit: :lol:  Awww! Apparently Nigel is very much a man after my own heart!  :wub:  He not only loves dogs, he has my favourite breed! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMzj3a9nL4Q

Edited by Sheilajeanne

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In my experience, changing the width of the gusset will not affect the operation of the bag. I can't imagine why they narrowed it - seems to just be a stylistic choice. The taper on the flap is to avoid being squished by the straps, as you suspected.

While being able to do the front, back and flap from one piece of leather is impressive, doing it in sections makes it easier to get the piece out of the hide without any blemishes if you don't happen to be working with an A-grade hide. My only suggestion there is to not cut the end that gets sewn on straight across if you can help it - cutting that like a curly brace ( this thing:  { ) dresses up the backside, especially if you're not putting on that back pocket. Do a matching curve on the bottom of the front side where it wraps back under, and that'll be snazzy.

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Cyberwolfe, my guess would be to save money. The gussets were made of a much-inferior quality of leather, which would back up my suggestion they were cost-cutting. :rolleyes2:

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BTW, anyone have any idea what that metal dohickey is hanging from the bottom of the strap attachment on Tandy's version of the bag? A clip to hang your keys from? A clip you can hook a strap to to keep the flap closed?

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7 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

 

Edit: :lol:  Awww! Apparently Nigel is very much a man after my own heart!  :wub:  He not only loves dogs, he has my favourite breed! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMzj3a9nL4Q

:lol::lol::wub: 

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