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As far as I know and understand, Cowboy primarily sells through a network of distributors unless there is nobody representing them in a particular country or hemisphere. It is unlikely that their binder will ever be on Amazon as that would be outside the dealer network.

6 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

It has an opening of 1/4" & will take up to 6 oz of binding material,25mm tape,but the thicker the binding the thinner the binding piece would need to be.

25mm wide bias tape, as in 1 inch??? If that is a double fold (finished edge) binder it will be useless on 1/4 inch thick edges. The tape would need to be at least 1.25" wide to have enough left to sew after folding under the edges. At 5 or 6 ounces, the strips would need to be about 1.5 inches before double folding. I think they may have quoted the tape width for a single fold attachment.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

As far as I know and understand, Cowboy primarily sells through a network of distributors unless there is nobody representing them in a particular country or hemisphere. It is unlikely that their binder will ever be on Amazon as that would be outside the dealer network.

25mm wide bias tape, as in 1 inch??? If that is a double fold (finished edge) binder it will be useless on 1/4 inch thick edges. The tape would need to be at least 1.25" wide to have enough left to sew after folding under the edges. At 5 or 6 ounces, the strips would need to be about 1.5 inches before double folding. I think they may have quoted the tape width for a single fold attachment.

Yeah I guess that is about what it is.

An Cowboy dealer told me that as a binder

>>it can use 1 - 2 oz binding materials. 5 oz binding materials it cant fold. But it can bind These materials (1 - 2 oz) to "heavy materials" <<

Basically you can bind an 5 oz Piece of leather with an 1 - 2 oz Piece of binding material.

I guess the more "doubfull" the Client stays, the more eager he gets to find out and orders the binder to his surprise afterwards that it binds at most normal leather for handbags and such 1 layer leathers.

As well that what Cowboybob said lets me Standing a bit in the rain with even more questions. 1/4" intake or Output? I understand that if I use 5 oz leather as binding material, I can bind with that only another 5 oz leather or the like. No such Thing in that case to bind 2 layers of sewn together 5 oz leather layers.

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Meanwhile I have found some sort of middle of the road solution.

I rubb in the sewn together 5 oz edges (in this case 4 layers of 5 oz leather) with Vaseline and then sand it with an bench grinder. That smoothenes and evens out all layers and burnishes it partially.

Without water or Vaseline the leather gets dark quickly as it coals easy (gets to hot from the sand Stone).

20180827_213346kopy1.thumb.jpg.f4cb85edf0cc10e42d28fe56ec71b0e3.jpg

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Posted

another Close up foto of the "burnish" with an bench grinder using an sanding Stone (used for sharpening knifes as well). This is an pocket Holster for an 380 acp pistol.

20180827_213425kopy1.thumb.jpg.a9cca8034a67c044c199d93329a0fae0.jpg

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Posted

That "burnish" Experiment with the bench grinder may be a cheap alternative of the expensive binder attachment. Indeed the "burnish" Looks a Little like pressed plywood. It gives a bit better finish than leaving the edges raw.

Tell me guys what you think about the "burnish".

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Posted

If you search here for "burnishing" you'll find information on what others are using for burnishing, some have fitted (or made) burnishing attachments onto bench grinders. They might be a little fast but they work ok. Yours looks to me like its burning the edge of the leather, I get the same thing when sanding on a belt grinder if I'm not careful. You've probably clogged the grinding wheel with leather so it's rubbing leather against leather at high speed and burning it. You could try using some beeswax on the leather when burnishing. The good thing about a proper burnishing attachment is the grooves will also round off the edges a bit.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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46 minutes ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

That "burnish" Experiment with the bench grinder may be a cheap alternative of the expensive binder attachment. Indeed the "burnish" Looks a Little like pressed plywood. It gives a bit better finish than leaving the edges raw.

Tell me guys what you think about the "burnish".

A few years ago I bought a combination leather burnisher and sander from Leather Machine Company (Cobra). It can sand the layers until they are even. With the sides flat you can use an edge tool to remove the lip formed by the sanding from the top and bottom. The larger the number the more leather it shaves off the edge. I would use a #3 on your holsters. Then, wet the edges and rub them into the groove in the burnisher that allows the inside and edges to be slicked.

In case that machine is too much money, there is a cheaper solution. Use a powered sander on the edges and an edge tool as described above. If you have a drill press you can buy a burnisher that fits into a chuck on a drill press. It is made by Richard Loy.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

You are burning the leather, not burnishing it.  Your grinder is spinning too fast and you are using a grinding wheel.  You need to slow it down and put on either a burnishing attachment or buffing wheel and maybe use less pressure.  You will be better off just wetting the edges and burnishing by hand with a piece of wood or canvas.

Gary

Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4

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Posted

This man will tell you everything you need to know about how to edge slick you leather. All you need on the simplest level is a hand held sanding block or a sanding drum on a drill press. A edge beveling tool, a polished stick, some stiff cloth, old jean material will work if you don't have canvas,  some water and some saddle soap. 

Also I know you are trying to learn an often frustrating craft. But the process of learning usually requires we step out of our comfort zone and try to do something new to us. The masters of the craft have been using many of these practices for the last 100 years or so. Try the simplest solution first.  

I wish you luck in your new endeavors  

 

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Posted

Well that Cobra burnisher is again 450$ and it has similar RPM as my common DeWalt grinder, which is 3450 RPM.

I would Need just an propper burnisher wheel which fits to the grinder.

As well I figured the clogged with leather sanding Stone will act as a burnisher the more it is clogged. Somehow that works to a certain Point.

What else is "burnishing" than hardening the leather by applying friction heat coaling it (hence burning = burnisher) partially.

Best is to find some method of burnish effectively (btw beeswax is not availlable over here nor does saddle soap).

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