Long Wallet, working with Barenia and Chevre Chagrin

[YinTx]

This is version 2 and 3 of a long wallet a customer ordered in Barenia and Chevre Chagrin.  Only version 3 made the grade.  Version 1 never got finished, not sure what to do with Version 2, not good enough to sell, and with 1/2 a side of Chevre Chagrin and a couple square feet of Barenia, a Riri zipper and hours of edge work I can't bring myself to toss it.  Happy at least Version 3 came out well enough! I have a newfound respect for those that are able to work with this leather.  Stitching is a challenge, and not adding your own "Patina" so the customer can add theirs is also a challenge.  Edge painting is also not easy for me on this type of leather!   Enjoy.

 

 

 

YinTx

[Albob]

That is gorgeous, I love the simplicity and color. Did you come up with the pattern? If not whos pattern did you use?

[YinTx]

24 minutes ago, Albob said:

That is gorgeous, I love the simplicity and color. Did you come up with the pattern? If not whos pattern did you use?

Thank you.  Yes, I did come up with the pattern, nothing complicated, just similar to most long wallets you see out and about.  Took me more than a few tries to get it down.

YinTx

[Sofaspud]

Beutiful work Yin Tex.  That leather is gorgeous, and your stitching looks perfect.

[ScoobyNewbie]

I don’t see any problem with your second version. The stitching looks fine. And your zipper is awesome!

[bikermutt07]

If version 2 is in the top picture, I would try restitching just the outside with a brown thread. The white really pops the few flaws. And by flaws, I mean your standards. They aren't flaws asmuch as slightly tiny inconsistencies to me.

Edited August 28, 2018 by bikermutt07

[YinTx]

47 minutes ago, Sofaspud said:

Beutiful work Yin Tex.  That leather is gorgeous, and your stitching looks perfect.

Thanks much, Sofaspud!  This leather is fantastic, I'm dyin to make something I can use out of it, like a briefcase, but I have to sell more of it before I do that lol.  This stuff is downright 'spensive.  I have one tote and one bucket bag to make out of it for customers, and after having to do 3 wallets to get one I was happy with, I'm a bit gun shy.

30 minutes ago, ScoobyNewbie said:

I don’t see any problem with your second version. The stitching looks fine. And your zipper is awesome!

Zipper on version 2 came out awful, I won't show it.   Thanks for the compliment!

6 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

If version 2 is in the top picture, I would try restitching just the outside with a brown thread. The white really pops the few flaws. And by flaws, I mean your standards. They aren't flaws asmuch as slightly tiny inconsistencies to me.

Yeah, version 2 is hiding it's worst flaws under version 1.  And even version 1 you can see where I was struggling a bit keeping everything happy.  So now when I see someone's awesome stitching on Barenia, I .

I've restitched before, never really been happy with it.  If that was the only flaw...and if the interior pockets weren't also stitched in white, I might would do it with a more subtle color thread.  But alas, the zipper design and install was a fail, so I won't spend more time on it.  Thanks for the suggestion!

YinTx

[Lavinia]

Superb!

[thefanninator]

Nice work. Is that a Riri #4? What did you crimp your bottom stopper with? I've tried several different types of pliers and nothing works really well.

[YinTx]

5 hours ago, Lavinia said:

Superb!

Thanks!

2 hours ago, thefanninator said:

Nice work. Is that a Riri #4? What did you crimp your bottom stopper with? I've tried several different types of pliers and nothing works really well.

Yes, thefanninator, that is a Riri #4 if I remember right.  I too tried pliers, even some with plastic jaws, etc. and like you found none really worked well.  Having no desire to spend $60+ for zipper pliers, I discovered the easiest way to set them was simply to whack em flat with a plastic mallet over a marble slab!  Course the bottom stops are pricey too, and not entirely necessary, you could just go with a leather cover over the zip as many do.

YinTx

[ComputerDoctor]

Good work and beautiful for sure!

"Barenia and Chevre Chagrin I have no idea what type of leather this is and where did you get it?

Sam:)

[thefanninator]

8 hours ago, YinTx said:

Thanks!

Yes, thefanninator, that is a Riri #4 if I remember right.  I too tried pliers, even some with plastic jaws, etc. and like you found none really worked well.  Having no desire to spend $60+ for zipper pliers, I discovered the easiest way to set them was simply to whack em flat with a plastic mallet over a marble slab!  Course the bottom stops are pricey too, and not entirely necessary, you could just go with a leather cover over the zip as many do.

YinTx

I bought the CS Osbourne zipper pliers and they're great for the top individual stoppers.

[YinTx]

8 minutes ago, ComputerDoctor said:

Good work and beautiful for sure!

"Barenia and Chevre Chagrin I have no idea what type of leather this is and where did you get it?

Sam:)

Sam, Barenia leather is a calf leather made by the Haas Tannery, one of the most important leather suppliers to Hermes as I understand it.  Chevre is a goat leather made at the Alran Tannery, although there are others as I understand it.  Both are French tanneries.  Both are quite expensive, and the three wallets used up an entire side of Chevre, and most of a half side of Barenia.

Companies like Fine Leatherworking and Rocky Mountain Leather Supply sell these kinds of leathers.  Anyone that has better info on these two leathers is welcome to chime in.

YinTx

[Dun]

Dang that's nice. 

[Rossr]

Looks fine to me all around. and Three isnt a bad learning curve at all.    Its all about the journey!!

 

Ross

[Wedgetail]

Chevre is French for Goat.  Goat is used mostly as lining leather. And is a good choice for it.

Common lining skins are goat, lamb, pig, and cow... and when  it comes to lining, the choice should be based on more than just being light weight, and consider instead what you want to make.

lamb skins are beautifully soft and smooth grained, but can be temperamental... certainly not hard wearing, and stains.... oh the stains... good for things that will be protected from moisture and contact.

Pig is nice, but tough, and has a distinctive open grain that is not as subtle. Can be stretchy... Good for hard wearing things. And budget conscious choice.

Cow is the cheapest usually per sqft. Not very strong in lining weights, so won't wear too well over the long term and can be very stretchy because of its looser grain... which also has a strong texture...but it is budget friendly so great for beginner projects.

Goat makes a great lining. It has a distinctive but subtle grain texture, is much harder wearing, is not stupidly expensive (unless you buy premium French stuff =p haha), doesn't stretch as bad as sheep skin or cow, and doesn't crease too bad when it bends. A great all rounder.

The stuff @YinTx used here comes in a huge range of colours, and is regarded among the best in the world... and yes, I'm totes jello

Beautiful work as always Yin!

[YinTx]

On 8/28/2018 at 8:10 PM, Dun said:

Dang that's nice. 

Thank you!

On 8/28/2018 at 8:18 PM, Rossr said:

Looks fine to me all around. and Three isnt a bad learning curve at all.    Its all about the journey!!

 

Ross

Thanks, Ross.  Maybe not a bad learning curve, but a painfully expensive one this time.  Both in time and materials!

On 8/31/2018 at 10:12 PM, Wedgetail said:

The stuff @YinTx used here comes in a huge range of colours, and is regarded among the best in the world... and yes, I'm totes jello

Beautiful work as always Yin!

Thank you Wedgetail, and very accurate description of the Chevre Chagrin.  I was fortunate enough to get a client that liked my previous work well enough and was willing to pay for the quality materials so off to work I go.  I keep thinking would be nice to have something from this kind of leather for myself, but interestingly enough, my current minimalist wallet is made from the worst scarred up bug bitten piece of scrap leather I had on hand, dyed black to hide the flaws!  Works great, and I love it, expect it'll never wear out, but it's no Barenia or Chevre Chagrin!

YinTx