Members KennethM Posted September 29, 2018 Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 Hello everyone.My name is Kenneth and I am new here and new to leatherworking..Orginally a blacksmith/Bladesmith that has been struck by the beauty of leather working craft..I have a question.I been practing making bi fold wallets which has been fun.I am using an acrylic template..I hold down the template onto my veg tan leather and trace around it with a scalpel knife..sometimes when I inspect the leather aftwr words I noticed bits of it is undercut .Sorter then the template and sorter in some areas then others.. I was thinking maybe I am apply to much pressure onto the template as I hold it down?Or maybe a dull blade .I wanted to seek you leather gurus advice before I keep making this mistake lol.I really want to learn and improve.Thank you for taking time to read this! Quote
Members battlemunky Posted September 29, 2018 Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 Sounds to me, from having done it a hundred times myself, like you aren't keeping your knife completely straight. The good news about it is when you do your edge work it should remove most errors like that. A little bit of edge beveling and some sanding and slicking and you won't see it anymore. Also, cutting more and more leather will help too but I don't know if you'll ever really get away from small deviations from hand cutting. If you are capable enough with your blacksmithing and have a press, you could always made a set of dies that you can then press out some pieces and it'd get you all uniform all the time. Welcome to the forum! Quote
Members KennethM Posted September 29, 2018 Author Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 Thank you for the reply brother!You know that makes total sense.I dont know why I didnt think of that.I have noticed hand curting the pattern HAS been the hardest part so far lol! Another question..Do you have a certain knife you find work better?I have alot more practice to do with the scaple to get good At it.I was curriors if those rotary cutters were better? Quote
Members battlemunky Posted September 29, 2018 Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 You are welcome! I have a rotary cutter and a few other types of knives but honestly what I end up using more than any of them is an Olfa snap blade knife. I guess Exacto would be very similar. I also use a regular old Stanley utility knife but do prefer the snap blade knife to that. Link to that knife is below. And the scalpel being a pretty fine blade likely flexes a bit as well and that'll lead to some variance but quite a few people use them. There isn't a huge need for a high dollar knife if/until you get deeper down the rabbit hole or you just want to. As long as the leather is getting cut and it isn't messing up your work is all that needs to happen. https://olfa.pl/en/product/olfa-a-1-1793283183 Quote
NVLeatherWorx Posted September 29, 2018 Report Posted September 29, 2018 I have also used a scalpel for some cuts and have found that the blades do indeed flex as @battlemunky has suggested so I only use the scalpel for my detail work when doing Filigree backgrounds. My standard cutting knife of choice is a #2 X-acto knife as it is a beefy blade and very sturdy. I have recently started using the Z-blades that they make and they are very sharp; can get a cut through 9 to 10 oz. leather on the first run smooth as can be. It also sounds like you may also be tipping your knife slightly so that can exaggerate the amount of undercut that you end up with but those do work themselves out once you get into the edge finishing process. Quote Richard Hardie R. P. Hardie Leather Co. R. P. Hardie Leather Co. - OnlineR. P. Hardie Leather Co on Facebook
Members zuludog Posted September 29, 2018 Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 (edited) I use scalpels for making model planes, but I think they're a bit too light for all but the thinnest leather Xacto knives are a bit heavier, and seem to be more popular in USA than Britain An obvious choice is a craft knife, often known in Britain as a Stanley knife, even if it isn't actually made by Stanley. I think you call them box cutters in USA The blades can be improved by sharpening on a fine stone and a strop. This lowers the shoulder of the bevel and polishes it. In fact once you get away from disposable blades to a fixed blade, you'll need a fine stone & strop anyway After that you're looking at specifically leather working knives. Search Google & YouTube for - Clicker Knife; Kiridashi; Japanese Style Leather Knife; Head Knife; Round knife; and you'll see the sort of things that are available. Be warned - some of them are expensive, but perhaps you could make your own? Also search YT for Beginners Leather Tools As mentioned by battlemonkey, one of the cheapest and easiest knives to start with is a snap blade knife Whatever you settle on, you will need two knives. The first is for cutting leather. The second is for sharpening pencils, opening parcels and so on; it's purpose is to make sure you use the first knife exclusively for cutting leather I think you'll find this video interesting - 'How to make a Simple Hand Made Leather Wallet' by Nigel Armitage. The knife he's using is a clicker knife Edited September 29, 2018 by zuludog Quote
alpha2 Posted September 29, 2018 Report Posted September 29, 2018 I still sometimes use a rotary cutter for long straight cuts, especially with thin leather. It cuts downward instead of pulling the leather. It's also easy to see if the blade isn't vertical. Not that good for corners, though. Quote So much leather...so little time.
Members Sheilajeanne Posted September 29, 2018 Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 Yeah, the rotary knives are the best for thin leather, which stretches when you are cutting it. Sometimes the pressure of the knife will cause just enough stretch that you don't get a nice straight cut. The rotary cutter does away with this problem. Quote
Members KennethM Posted September 29, 2018 Author Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 1 hour ago, battlemunky said: You are welcome! I have a rotary cutter and a few other types of knives but honestly what I end up using more than any of them is an Olfa snap blade knife. I guess Exacto would be very similar. I also use a regular old Stanley utility knife but do prefer the snap blade knife to that. Link to that knife is below. And the scalpel being a pretty fine blade likely flexes a bit as well and that'll lead to some variance but quite a few people use them. There isn't a huge need for a high dollar knife if/until you get deeper down the rabbit hole or you just want to. As long as the leather is getting cut and it isn't messing up your work is all that needs to happen. https://olfa.pl/en/product/olfa-a-1-1793283183 Thank you for the link brother ima check this out..I thought about the box cutter knife also..my self healing cutting mat is supposed to be here today..this kitchen cutting board I think is filling my blades fast 1 hour ago, NVLeatherWorx said: I have also used a scalpel for some cuts and have found that the blades do indeed flex as @battlemunky has suggested so I only use the scalpel for my detail work when doing Filigree backgrounds. My standard cutting knife of choice is a #2 X-acto knife as it is a beefy blade and very sturdy. I have recently started using the Z-blades that they make and they are very sharp; can get a cut through 9 to 10 oz. leather on the first run smooth as can be. It also sounds like you may also be tipping your knife slightly so that can exaggerate the amount of undercut that you end up with but those do work themselves out once you get into the edge finishing process. Thank you for the reply brother!Now that you guys point it out I do notice the flex in the blade.Ill look into the beefy blades! Quote
Members KennethM Posted September 29, 2018 Author Members Report Posted September 29, 2018 1 hour ago, zuludog said: I use scalpels for making model planes, but I think they're a bit too light for all but the thinnest leather Xacto knives are a bit heavier, and seem to be more popular in USA than Britain An obvious choice is a craft knife, often known in Britain as a Stanley knife, even if it isn't actually made by Stanley. I think you call them box cutters in USA The blades can be improved by sharpening on a fine stone and a strop. This lowers the shoulder of the bevel and polishes it. In fact once you get away from disposable blades to a fixed blade, you'll need a fine stone & strop anyway After that you're looking at specifically leather working knives. Search Google & YouTube for - Clicker Knife; Kiridashi; Japanese Style Leather Knife; Head Knife; Round knife; and you'll see the sort of things that are available. Be warned - some of them are expensive, but perhaps you could make your own? Also search YT for Beginners Leather Tools As mentioned by battlemonkey, one of the cheapest and easiest knives to start with is a snap blade knife Whatever you settle on, you will need two knives. The first is for cutting leather. The second is for sharpening pencils, opening parcels and so on; it's purpose is to make sure you use the first knife exclusively for cutting leather I think you'll find this video interesting - 'How to make a Simple Hand Made Leather Wallet' by Nigel Armitage. The knife he's using is a clicker knife Thank you for the info brother!Ill have to forge a kardishi ..I need one anyway they come in handy when I'm doing wood work for my katana handles. 10 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said: Yeah, the rotary knives are the best for thin leather, which stretches when you are cutting it. Sometimes the pressure of the knife will cause just enough stretch that you don't get a nice straight cut. The rotary cutter does away with this problem. Awesome thank you brother Quote
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