Sewing with a machine - the basics

[BtownMN]

Hey folks,

I recently purchased a Cobra4 and trying to find information on how to properly start and stop a stitch line. What do I do with the threads on both sides of the leather item? Do I pull them through to the backside to melt the ends as if I were hand stitching? Also, how do I properly do a backstitch on a machine without it looking like garbage. 

 

I know these are basic questions and kind rock bottom fundamentals but I’m surprised that I have not been able to find information about these two topics! Anyone have videos or suggestions on where to get this information? Or wanna share your tips for start/stopping a pretty stitch line with a machine and what to do with the thread ends?

 

Thanks!

Edited October 13, 2018 by BtownMN

[BtownMN]

Here are a couple photo of what I’m talking about. Do you folks pull the thread through to the back?

[JLSleather]

Yup.  Pull the back thread, which pulls the front thread back, then pull both tight and trim.  Small projects, likely easier to turn the project around and stitch forward -- just better to see than trying to reverse.  Good chance your machine doesn't back in the same holes as it hits forward. This can be adjusted, but may not be necessary like I said.

Alternatively, you might stitch to the end, then position the material so the thread goes BACK one hole at a time in forward .. basically just pull the material back toward you.  For the number of stitches desired.  Not that difficult, and it works every time without adjustments.

 

[BtownMN]

Thanks for the response! I still plan to do a fair amount of hand sewing but I had this example already glued up so I rolled with it. Makes good sense about turning it around instead of slamming it into reverse  

Is there a way to make the back stitching spots look nicer on the back? Do I need to cheat the material to the side a little in an effort to get the needle to slide next to the already stitched thread instead of plowing right through the middle?

 

Right now the fronts are looking nice but the backs look beyond sloppy. 

[JLSleather]

The back never gonna be that purdy - it just aint.  But you shouldn't need to one-side the material.. the geometry of the needle should take care of it. If you're piercing the thread, you'll figure it easy enough.

The type of needle "point" you use makes a difference in the look, too. I like LL point needles myself.. good combination of straight stitch and small holes pretty much filled by thread.  

[Northmount]

Use a leather point needle.  Looks like yours is a standard conical point.  They blow out the back instead of slicing through the leather. 

Hammer the seam flat after.  It will help fix the blowout.

Tom

[BtownMN]

1 hour ago, Northmount said:

Use a leather point needle.  Looks like yours is a standard conical point.  They blow out the back instead of slicing through the leather. 

Hammer the seam flat after.  It will help fix the blowout.

Tom

Thanks Tom. Could recommend a brand?

[Northmount]

I only have easy access to Organ needles.  There are many other recommendations elsewhere in this forum.

Tom

[JLSleather]

On October 14, 2018 at 6:23 AM, BtownMN said:

Thanks Tom. Could recommend a brand?

I thought those holes looked like they came from a "leather point" needle, likely an "S" or "D" point.  But  Tom could be right - I'm hardly the expert.

But,  I like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Organ-7X4NW-DYX3LL-794LL-Leather-Point-Sewing-Machine-Needles-Singer-Consew/400730390609?var=670274800836

I haven't used ALL the point styles available by any means.  But I have used the "D" and "S" point, which I don't much care for. The hole tends to look elongated and it gives the appearance of "space" between the stitches, which I don't care for.  The "LR" point leaves an angled stitch that I have always thought was a bit odd.  These LL point needles leave a straight line stitch, and the hole is quite diamond shaped - much as you would see with a good awl - so the stitch is tight and so is the line.

When doing holsters and belts, MOST of the time I'm using a #24 needle with size 277 thread (from Bob @ Toledo).  Many will recommend a #25 needle for that thread, but ... well, I already mentioned the gaping hole thing, right?   But I have them in sizes 23 to 26 for assorted reasons.

A couple of examples made just for when folks ask ...

Red arrow shows direction of stitching, so you're looking at it just the way you would see it in the machine with the leather moving away from you.  The stitch on the right "appears" longer - it isn't. The stitch length is the same, but appears longer due to teh "sensitive" angled stitch.  Note also that the LL point tends to pull deeper .. the LR point sits on the leather a bit higher.  I have some LR points in a drawer for maybe a couple of years now.. perhaps I'll use them someday ...

Bottom of pic shows a pic taken on a demo holster.  24 LL needle, 277 natural thread, 6 stitches per inch.  Nice straight line, tight pulled stitch, holes filled in by thread, no "space" showing between stitches.

 

 

 

 

[Sheilajeanne]

Glad I took 2 years of Home Ec. in school, plus my mom taught me how to use her machine...

Still, it's been a learning curve!

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

2 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Glad I took 2 years of Home Ec. in school, plus my mom taught me how to use her machine...

Still, it's been a learning curve!

I gotta say, nothing I ever learned in Home Ec . . . 4 years of it if I remember right. . . prepared me for sewing leather, or much else in life for that matter.  I'd have been a whole lot better off taking shop class, and wanted to, except back then I'd have been the only girl in shop class.   Of course, the stuff I sew, and the machines I use bear virtually no resemblance to anything in Home Ec, except the machines both use some type of thread. 

[BtownMN]

On 10/14/2018 at 4:31 AM, JLSleather said:

I thought those holes looked like they came from a "leather point" needle, likely an "S" or "D" point.  But  Tom could be right - I'm hardly the expert.

But,  I like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Organ-7X4NW-DYX3LL-794LL-Leather-Point-Sewing-Machine-Needles-Singer-Consew/400730390609?var=670274800836

I haven't used ALL the point styles available by any means.  But I have used the "D" and "S" point, which I don't much care for. The hole tends to look elongated and it gives the appearance of "space" between the stitches, which I don't care for.  The "LR" point leaves an angled stitch that I have always thought was a bit "girly".  These LL point needles leave a straight line stitch, and the hole is quite diamond shaped - much as you would see with a good awl - so the stitch is tight and so is the line.

When doing holsters and belts, MOST of the time I'm using a #24 needle with size 277 thread (from Bob @ Toledo).  Many will recommend a #25 needle for that thread, but ... well, I already mentioned the gaping hole thing, right?   But I have them in sizes 23 to 26 for assorted reasons.

A couple of examples made just for when folks ask ...

Red arrow shows direction of stitching, so you're looking at it just the way you would see it in the machine with the leather moving away from you.  The stitch on the right "appears" longer - it isn't. The stitch length is the same, but appears longer due to teh "sensitive" angled stitch.  Note also that the LL point tends to pull deeper .. the LR point sits on the leather a bit higher.  I have some LR points in a drawer for maybe a couple of years now.. perhaps I'll use them someday ...

Bottom of pic shows a pic taken on a demo holster.  24 LL needle, 277 natural thread, 6 stitches per inch.  Nice straight line, tight pulled stitch, holes filled in by thread, no "space" showing between stitches.

 

 

 

 

That was a lot of really great info. Before buying this machine I had no idea there were so many different needle styles. I’m currently using a 794S. I’ve got a number of different sizes and haven’t started playing with them yet. I like the big chunky thread look and am using a 277 thread. I’ve got some size 350 Serabraid samples that I will start messing with once I figure this machine out some. 

 

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!

[JLSleather]

Yeah, thought maybe that was a 's' needle.  Compare the front side of your piece to the front side in my pic.  The 's' leaves a more oblong hole, so when the stitch pulls in it leaves the appearance of space between the stitches.  Each his own, but I dont like the look.