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I tried #20 LR and #19R. No visible difference on top stitch, with LR I get straight stitch on a bottom.

Top definitely tighter, smaller hole.

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Forgot to ask simple question. Maybe I'm missing something. In my machine needle shank is just round. I can install it pretty much any way I want. What I was doing is using needle threader to get it where hole is inline with main shaft. But obviously it's not 100%. I would expect needles to be ground on left side for the screw but they aren't. How do you install them?

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Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, katit said:

Forgot to ask simple question. Maybe I'm missing something. In my machine needle shank is just round. I can install it pretty much any way I want. What I was doing is using needle threader to get it where hole is inline with main shaft. But obviously it's not 100%. I would expect needles to be ground on left side for the screw but they aren't. How do you install them?

They are round because there might be different orientations of the needle depending on what machine it's going into. One needle system might fit dozens of different machines.

Home machine needles almost always orient one way, hence the flat machined into it.

The needle should be oriented always with the scarf (the thinner relieved area above the eye) toward the hook. The hook "hooks" the thread loop in the scarf.

Edited by R8R
spellings
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Posted

Understood. Then I just do what I did? Eyeball position? I was thinking there is some trick on installing needle "precisely". Or maybe turning it right/left slightly will affect something.

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Posted
4 minutes ago, katit said:

Understood. Then I just do what I did? Eyeball position? I was thinking there is some trick on installing needle "precisely". Or maybe turning it right/left slightly will affect something.

I just eyeball it. (with reading glasses on...)

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Posted

Got it. Another question about needle I just thought about..

What is signs of "dull" needle? When you change needle, do you keep it or get rid of it? I read somewhere to get rid of old needles and not mix with new. Especially that sizes is almost impossible to read..

I'm most likely going to change from 19/20 to 22 when doing french seams and vice versa

 

Q2: Does tension work the same for all materials? For example, I did 2 layers of vinyl, looks good. I did 3 layers of leather and had to make adjustment to top tension. To me it looks like vinyl looked good because it's thin/soft and I didn't notice difference. With thicker leather thread tension misadjustment became more visible. It almost seems like I need to adjust thread tension on thicker/tougher material and then it will be good for thinner stuff. Am I correct or it's wrong?

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Posted
4 hours ago, katit said:

Got it. Another question about needle I just thought about..

What is signs of "dull" needle? When you change needle, do you keep it or get rid of it? I read somewhere to get rid of old needles and not mix with new. Especially that sizes is almost impossible to read..

I'm most likely going to change from 19/20 to 22 when doing french seams and vice versa

 

Q2: Does tension work the same for all materials? For example, I did 2 layers of vinyl, looks good. I did 3 layers of leather and had to make adjustment to top tension. To me it looks like vinyl looked good because it's thin/soft and I didn't notice difference. With thicker leather thread tension misadjustment became more visible. It almost seems like I need to adjust thread tension on thicker/tougher material and then it will be good for thinner stuff. Am I correct or it's wrong?

Take the needle out every now and then and feel the tip with a fingertip. If you feel a burr, toss it out. If you are down to your last needle, pull it across Emory cloth to de-burr it, then polish it on a piece of veg-tan leather that has jewelers' rouge on it (like you strop a carving knife blade).

Vinyl is trivial to penetrate and pull lockstitch knots into, even with undersize needles. Leather is not. You will almost always need more top tension, or less bobbin tension, or a bigger needle to bury the knots inside leather. The denser or thicker the leather, the larger the needle, or higher the top facing tension needs to be upped.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
17 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Vinyl is trivial to penetrate and pull lockstitch knots into, even with undersize needles. Leather is not. You will almost always need more top tension, or less bobbin tension, or a bigger needle to bury the knots inside leather. The denser or thicker the leather, the larger the needle, or higher the top facing tension needs to be upped.

Got it! Makes sense, then my theory not good and I need to setup tension whenever I deal with different materials...

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Posted
4 hours ago, katit said:

Got it! Makes sense, then my theory not good and I need to setup tension whenever I deal with different materials...

Different densities and thicknesses.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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