MrLentz Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Hello, I am putting together a workbench to function as a multipurpose space for tooling leather, assembly, stitching, and a little dyeing too. I have access to a lacquered maple butcher block style table top and was wondering if there are any pitfalls about a lacquered finish with regards to general leatherworking? I hear lacquer is a very strong finish, but also tends to be thin and can scratch after some time. I will be tooling on a granite block inset into the table so there's no damage happening there. I might use the table top to bevel edges now and then. Is lacquer a good choice for a table top or should I go with a laminate instead? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rhale Report post Posted December 8, 2018 It should have a cutting mat on it, paper when dying, gluing, etc. but I would definitely use it. You will get scratch’s, maths, scuffs etc. but it will sure make a nice work surface. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted December 8, 2018 If the wood grain-end up, or long grain? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bermudahwin Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Unless you are using a heavily lacquered butchers block top for looks, it is worth noting that historically we used end grain butchers blocks, about 3 foot x 2 foot x 4 inches, and last job each Friday was to oil and scrape it to make it smooth and maintain condition. Total pain in the rump to do, but lovely surface to work on particularly with round knives, head knives and half moon knives. To note: They're very expensive They're very heavy Dye will ruin them so cover with grey board to protect them. If its for the looks, just go with what you like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted December 8, 2018 I just have to ask Why Friday night and not Saturday night when it had a day to settle, or did you not work weekends Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bermudahwin Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Mon to Fri in the workshop, Saturday at the football or rugby, Sunday birdwatching In the early 1980s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Ah the good old days Harry I spent some time on visits to Bermuda in about 2002-3 whilst actings as a company rep overseeing the laying of submarine cables on ships based at the old dockyard, must admit to having the odd Rum for dinner and supper whilst there Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted December 8, 2018 7 hours ago, hwinbermuda said: Unless you are using a heavily lacquered butchers block top for looks, it is worth noting that historically we used end grain butchers blocks, about 3 foot x 2 foot x 4 inches, and last job each Friday was to oil and scrape it to make it smooth and maintain condition. Total pain in the rump to do, but lovely surface to work on particularly with round knives, head knives and half moon knives. To note: They're very expensive They're very heavy Dye will ruin them so cover with grey board to protect them. If its for the looks, just go with what you like A LOT of what is being sold as butcher block isn't end grain, which is why I asked. End grain really is a fantastic cutting surface. It tends to not pull your knife off-course, is more or less self-healing, and certainly good and solid! Long grain is just not as nice (although also not terrible!) If you are trying to cut along with the grain, your knife can pretty easily be pulled off-course, and cutting across the grain leaves scars. They also tend to be thinner and lighter weight with less wood in them, and easier to make, which probably explains why the marketing folks are trying to pass them off as a true butcher block. More profit. They both need a little maintenance here and there, but more so the long grain kind. Also, with either one of them, I wouldn't worry about finish. If it came lacquered, no worries - leave it as it shouldn't hurt anything. If it is shellac'd you could have an issue with dyes or other alcohol-based stuff, and I'd remove it (alcohol softens and dissolves shellac). At some point you'll want to clean up the surface by planing, scraping, or sanding and any finish will come off: I'd just leave it off at that point. Workbenches ain't made to be pretty, although just natural wood is pretty without any finish. - Bill Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MrLentz Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Hey thanks for all the tips! I will probably go ahead with it and plan to use a cutting mat for the knife. It's long grain, so not quite as nice as the end grain described. I have a couple laminated tables, so it'll be nice to have something wooden that looks a bit better! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bermudahwin Report post Posted December 8, 2018 Should look great, I use a mat at the moment (circumstances dictate) but would also look at polyprop boards, as used in clicking presses. I used to have a 6 foot one that was great for harness and straps. Enjoy your shop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites