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ErinTwinFlameLeatherCo

Consew 226 or consew 206rb?

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Hi,

Im super new to machines. This would be my first one. I wanted to ask you a few questions. I signed up for leatherworker.net and have been reading as much as I could from there, researching what machine I want. The knowledge and responses here were so impressive I wanted to ask. 

I have an option to purchase either a Consew 226 or a Consew 206RB. Both are priced the same at $450. I make leather bags, purses, fanny packs, etc, around 5oz - 6ozish, stitching by hand. I do want a machine that can sew heavy duty leather incase I decide to go towards heavy leather for totes. I did see someone mentioned the 226 can sew up to 20oz, does the 206RB do 20oz too? Which one would be best? 

I’m going to attach some photos to show the wear. 
 

Thank you!!

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The 226 is a top loading small G style bobbin.  You push down for reverse.

The 206 is a side loading large M style bobbin.  You lift the lever for reverse.  

The 206 is considered slightly more heavy duty, but the 226 is an elegant machine that wins in terms of ergonomics.  

I would pick the 206, but it's a close call.  

Edited by Pintodeluxe

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36 minutes ago, Pintodeluxe said:

The 226 is a top loading small G style bobbin.  You push down for reverse.

The 206 is a side loading large M style bobbin.  You lift the lever for reverse.  

The 206 is considered slightly more heavy duty, but the 226 is an elegant machine that wins in terms of ergonomics.  

I would pick the 206, but it's a close call.  

That’s the one I keep leaning more towards. I like that i don’t have to lift it to change the stitching lengths. 

Does it matter which Servo motor I get?

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2 hours ago, ErinTwinFlameLeatherCo said:

Wizcrafts - can I pick your brain? And ask what you think as well?

Try them both out. If one feels easier to use, or sounds tighter, go with it. Both designs are valid. But, if they both have a lot of slack and are noisy, you may want to avoid inheriting somebody else's troubles.

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4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Try them both out. If one feels easier to use, or sounds tighter, go with it. Both designs are valid. But, if they both have a lot of slack and are noisy, you may want to avoid inheriting somebody else's troubles.

 Thats interesting. I know its an intuitive thing and "a feel" you get over time, but any suggestions on what to look for and where when it comes to slack? Thought asking this might also help the OP.

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What some of the things I would look for would be: i. overall condition of machine / table ii. does it sew properly iii. is there any crunching / grinding noises when sewing iv. is there excessive machine vibrations / shaking while sewing v. excessive side to side slack in the needle rod and the foot vi. is the motor overly noisy or you get a burning smell vii. large amount of rust or signs of wear on the shafts / bearings in the bottom of the machine viii. does reverse work and does the needle reverse back in the same holes created when sewing forward.

kgg

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7 hours ago, ensitmike said:

 Thats interesting. I know its an intuitive thing and "a feel" you get over time, but any suggestions on what to look for and where when it comes to slack? Thought asking this might also help the OP.

KGG already mentioned a few things to check for excessive wear. The things that really affect performance are an overly loose needle bar, feed dog, stitch regulator, reverse hold down spring (on the 226) and the crank shafts inside the head (incl take-up lever). Other areas of concern are the shuttle and shuttle driver and belt from top to bottom. If the belt is too far worn the timing can be erratic.

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If you can ask them to oil them as you watch, this would be great. 

With that done, by having no thread in the needle or lever above it. You can lift the lever for the presser feet, or using the knee bumper.

Doing this so the presser feet are raised and in a stay position. You can initially run the machines to hear most of their movements and gear train. 

This done also, just as you might wind some bobbins. I find it a lag time and chance to see, feel and hear particulars that are mentioned above from others. (great tips)

These machines are both in the middle range or upholstery class machines. Which are great for your present task, but planing for much heavier leather stuff is not so much in your best interest. Imo

To add something im sure you have seen in post so far are speed reduction types that are built or purchased. This part will be your new best and likely smartest investment part! 

 

have a good day

Floyd

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I would add that if one of the sellers is willing to give you some instructions for operating the machine and the other isn't, buy the machine that has personal instructions. Non-sewers can make serious, costly mistakes on industrial sewing machines. Some mistakes can land you in the ER. Others can require professional servicing.

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Thank you so much everyone for your advice. This has def. been helpful and I'm going to check out both of them on Monday. The seller has both machines, so ill decide when I get there but I'm still leaning more towards the 206. Based on the photos of the heads, do they seem like they have a lot of wear? I know that you may not be able to say just by that, but any info is helpful.

Thank you so much,

Erin

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10 hours ago, ErinTwinFlameLeatherCo said:

Thank you so much everyone for your advice. This has def. been helpful and I'm going to check out both of them on Monday. The seller has both machines, so ill decide when I get there but I'm still leaning more towards the 206. Based on the photos of the heads, do they seem like they have a lot of wear? I know that you may not be able to say just by that, but any info is helpful.

Thank you so much,

Erin

You can buy a brand new Consew P-1206rb for under a thousand dollars. It is similar to the 206 mechanism, but is self oiling and lacks the safety clutch button. If you remember to hold back the starting threads and maintain proper threading and top tension you won't need a safety clutch.

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