Members katit Posted January 20, 2019 Members Report Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Topic below is where I bought machine, but it's got sideways with motor questions, etc http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83707-seiko-stw-8b-question-on-servo-with-needle-positioner/ I'm working on getting it working. I installed new good needle, good thread top/bottom and tried to sew. No luck, if go slow - it works, when go faster starts skipping stitches. Reverse does not work, stitch adjustment wheel is not correctly set. There was other questionable items so I decided to fix/replace/readjust from beginning. Clutch: I took it off, it was glued. Removed glue, cleaned, lubed. Looks like pretty simple mechanism so I'm puzzled on why it was glued? Anything I need to know? Tooth which latches and keeps it connected has some wear but very little. I didn't assemble it completely, need to figure out eccentric adjustment and spring position. Also, look at the bearing case (???) left from clutch. Seems like someone tried to pry it off. Why? Anything I should check? Belt: frayed a little, should I replace it? Hook/shuttle: There is some slop in gears, they look like they are not aligned properly, is my assumption that they need to be moved to mesh closer correct? Cleaning: It's sitting on metal pan right now, I was thinking about getting kerosene, brush and spray bottle. Then go top to bottom and get it all cleaned as much as possible. I took off covers, bobbin case, pulley, reverse lever. Is kerosene proper thing to use? I plan to let it drain afterwards and lube everywhere. Any place I should use grease instead of oil? I decided not to take it apart any further. Will do all adjustments A-Z after cleaning, does that sound like a good plan? Edited January 20, 2019 by katit Quote
Members katit Posted January 21, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 21, 2019 Took everything around apart, took belt off(ordered new one) and gave machine thorough cleaning with brush and kerosene spray. Cleaned up nicely. Decided mine as well won't make it any worse if I give it fresh layer of paint. Decided not to overkill and just go with rustoleum spray can of similar hammered finish. Called it a day after sanding right half of it. Another half going to be harder with all of the holes and voids. Shaft play: Even after clutch adjustment I feel some play in shaft. Also, there is some play in gears. Is that normal to have some? Logically machine moves forward, so there should be no problem, but what about reverse? Quote
Members katit Posted January 23, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 23, 2019 Ready to paint but I'm concerned I'm making mistake Stopped to see if anybody have similar experience. I plugged small holes with playdough. But it gave out oil, you can see on picture. And I worry that it will mess with paint adhesion. Or it won't? It's not too late to remove it and use something else to plug holed (what?) I picked Rustoleum hammered finish spray can, already painted 2 covers and reverse lever - looks very good, I really like it. Quote
Members shoepatcher Posted January 24, 2019 Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 Looks good so far. I have done a few of these mostly shoepatchers. glenn Quote
Members dikman Posted January 24, 2019 Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 When I repainted one of mine I just used screwed up tissue paper pushed into the holes. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members katit Posted January 24, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 I thought about just using paper, but didn't do it fo couple reasons. This "hammered" paint pools and builds texture weirdly, tested on some pieces. Ideally surface need to be without anything sticking out, Paper will soak paint and will be harder to get out. I ordered those silicone plugs for powedercoating from eBay. Will use those living maybe 1/16 over surface so they don't interfere with spraying. Then I'm going to remove them right after spraying while paint wet. At least this is my plan for now.. Quote
Members brmax Posted January 24, 2019 Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 I think if the plugs are only in the hole or threads its fine, as the paint spray will be on the surface and will surround the area. Im sure I would just leave them plugs until the paint is dry. And my patience is so short. Primarily I think this because the threaded holes you could use some swabs carefully. Additionaly them holes are now the only place, and carefully I would consider a hot! Cleaner as bk or such. Good work your doing there Floyd Quote
Members katit Posted January 24, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 I have some time. Waiting on timing belt. And paint dries pretty fast. I still have table to work on, keeps me busy and temps here is really bad for painting outside I have hard time painting table legs. Did priming when it was 40, then moved parts to garage next to heater. Worked good, but PITA. So yeah, plugs on order, should be here on Monday. Spraying is 5 minutes, I can wait Quote
Members dikman Posted January 24, 2019 Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members katit Posted January 24, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, dikman said: What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit. That is great idea, but those ideas come too late I already have those silicone plugs ordered, just going to wait. Have to use what purchased, right? I still have plenty of work with table/top so machine can wait for now Quote
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