katit Report post Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Topic below is where I bought machine, but it's got sideways with motor questions, etc http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83707-seiko-stw-8b-question-on-servo-with-needle-positioner/ I'm working on getting it working. I installed new good needle, good thread top/bottom and tried to sew. No luck, if go slow - it works, when go faster starts skipping stitches. Reverse does not work, stitch adjustment wheel is not correctly set. There was other questionable items so I decided to fix/replace/readjust from beginning. Clutch: I took it off, it was glued. Removed glue, cleaned, lubed. Looks like pretty simple mechanism so I'm puzzled on why it was glued? Anything I need to know? Tooth which latches and keeps it connected has some wear but very little. I didn't assemble it completely, need to figure out eccentric adjustment and spring position. Also, look at the bearing case (???) left from clutch. Seems like someone tried to pry it off. Why? Anything I should check? Belt: frayed a little, should I replace it? Hook/shuttle: There is some slop in gears, they look like they are not aligned properly, is my assumption that they need to be moved to mesh closer correct? Cleaning: It's sitting on metal pan right now, I was thinking about getting kerosene, brush and spray bottle. Then go top to bottom and get it all cleaned as much as possible. I took off covers, bobbin case, pulley, reverse lever. Is kerosene proper thing to use? I plan to let it drain afterwards and lube everywhere. Any place I should use grease instead of oil? I decided not to take it apart any further. Will do all adjustments A-Z after cleaning, does that sound like a good plan? Edited January 20, 2019 by katit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 21, 2019 Took everything around apart, took belt off(ordered new one) and gave machine thorough cleaning with brush and kerosene spray. Cleaned up nicely. Decided mine as well won't make it any worse if I give it fresh layer of paint. Decided not to overkill and just go with rustoleum spray can of similar hammered finish. Called it a day after sanding right half of it. Another half going to be harder with all of the holes and voids. Shaft play: Even after clutch adjustment I feel some play in shaft. Also, there is some play in gears. Is that normal to have some? Logically machine moves forward, so there should be no problem, but what about reverse? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 23, 2019 Ready to paint but I'm concerned I'm making mistake Stopped to see if anybody have similar experience. I plugged small holes with playdough. But it gave out oil, you can see on picture. And I worry that it will mess with paint adhesion. Or it won't? It's not too late to remove it and use something else to plug holed (what?) I picked Rustoleum hammered finish spray can, already painted 2 covers and reverse lever - looks very good, I really like it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted January 24, 2019 Looks good so far. I have done a few of these mostly shoepatchers. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 24, 2019 When I repainted one of mine I just used screwed up tissue paper pushed into the holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 24, 2019 I thought about just using paper, but didn't do it fo couple reasons. This "hammered" paint pools and builds texture weirdly, tested on some pieces. Ideally surface need to be without anything sticking out, Paper will soak paint and will be harder to get out. I ordered those silicone plugs for powedercoating from eBay. Will use those living maybe 1/16 over surface so they don't interfere with spraying. Then I'm going to remove them right after spraying while paint wet. At least this is my plan for now.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted January 24, 2019 I think if the plugs are only in the hole or threads its fine, as the paint spray will be on the surface and will surround the area. Im sure I would just leave them plugs until the paint is dry. And my patience is so short. Primarily I think this because the threaded holes you could use some swabs carefully. Additionaly them holes are now the only place, and carefully I would consider a hot! Cleaner as bk or such. Good work your doing there Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 24, 2019 I have some time. Waiting on timing belt. And paint dries pretty fast. I still have table to work on, keeps me busy and temps here is really bad for painting outside I have hard time painting table legs. Did priming when it was 40, then moved parts to garage next to heater. Worked good, but PITA. So yeah, plugs on order, should be here on Monday. Spraying is 5 minutes, I can wait Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted January 24, 2019 What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, dikman said: What about foam earplugs? They can scrunch down pretty small, or be cut to fit. That is great idea, but those ideas come too late I already have those silicone plugs ordered, just going to wait. Have to use what purchased, right? I still have plenty of work with table/top so machine can wait for now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RJLamie Report post Posted January 25, 2019 I really love your project. I am a little jealous. I would love to find a machine in the right condition to do a complete rebuild. good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted January 25, 2019 Maybe a very thin layer of vaseline around the plug edge to stop the paint sticking to it, so when you remove the plug it does not pull away a small part of the new ;paint around the hole edge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 25, 2019 13 hours ago, chrisash said: Maybe a very thin layer of vaseline around the plug edge to stop the paint sticking to it, so when you remove the plug it does not pull away a small part of the new ;paint around the hole edge I think I will be pulling plugs right after I finish spraying while paint is wet so even if it's lightly flows into the holes - it will be good. This spray paint dries pretty fast, like 30 minutes to touch, stops flowing in couple minutes (becomes tacky). Need to organize and move quickly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 29, 2019 Hmm. Received timing belt but not sure if it’s correct? Matched by PN. All sizes match except for width. Is that correct? New one is not as wide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 29, 2019 Silicone plugs worked as a charm!! I waited about 30 minutes for paint to be dry to touch and pulled them with sharp pick. This is what I have now. Can start assembly and tinkering tomorrow! You see on a picture pulled plugs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted January 29, 2019 Hey there, Thats a great paint job! good work there Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted January 29, 2019 nice job!!! glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 29, 2019 Need to mark oil ports. Nail polish is what you guys use? Anybody knows about timing belt? Is it OK to use narrow one? I would imagine it should work just as good, but looking for info from people who dealt with it before Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted January 30, 2019 No. Find a Testor's paint stick. Looks like a magic marker but it is paint. Used them for years in red to mark oil holes! glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 30, 2019 (edited) Progress here, I thought I will get it ready for timing but NO. This belt is not right need help here.. it’s correct pn but it’s loose and narrow Edited January 30, 2019 by katit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted January 30, 2019 when you install belt, take up lever must be all the way up. The time hook to needle. we need Eric here. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 30, 2019 That,s not a problem.. timing I can deal with. My problem is a belt itself. I need to know if it’s OK to be loose like this. To be about 1/8 narrow comparing to old one I guess not... old belt is not original either, but it’s pretty tight on gears Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 30, 2019 Btw, I read whole archive, all topics from Eric and Uwe. Pretty much ready to go. But looks like I got a bad part. All ebay sellers list belts and say there is 3/8 variance in length. Those machines don’t have tensioners, I will take short one please:) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted January 31, 2019 (edited) Well. I installed old belt. It's frayed on one side a little, I carefully cut those loose strands, washed with soap. Its pliable, no cracks/etc. Decided to let it be. When I timed top-bottom I realized that it really can be 1 tooth here or there. Hard to tell. I tried to go by "eccentric" feel on top because there is some movement in TOP here or there. I also tried to go with all slack removed as machine being turned by the top pulley. With what I described it's about 1/32 off on bottom mark. Oiled everything and everywhere. Spin and oiled. And again. It was all cleaned with kerosene and then blown with air. It's literally dust free and now all soaked in oil. Now dealing with hook timing. Everything. And I mean everything need to be adjusted. Reverse, foots, stitch indicator, etc. Will be fun Edited January 31, 2019 by katit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katit Report post Posted February 1, 2019 @Uwe, @gottaknow Eric/Uwe, calling for help!! Today I started to adjust machine. First step - hook timing - went perfect. Little fiddling, got it just the way in Uwe 225 video shows. One thing I wanted is little better mesh between gears (back gear more to the right). Another problem I noticed comparing to what it was - needle bar was about 1/8 inch too low. Installed new feed dog and plate. PROBLEM #1: Feed dog rubs on a plate, picture shows it (left side). It also was hitting plate on a bottom (too high on setup). Got it all way down - see how bolt is. So it moves more or less, but I fiddled with a feed dog while screwing in - tried to keep it on right and centered - this is best I got it. Still not centered in a plate. However, needle is centered. So it's something with plate? Just to be clear - old parts worn out but they were same way, crooked and not centered. Also, feed dog is not horizontal, it tilts a little. So OK, this was somewhat moving. PROBLEM #2: Followed Uwe's video on setting up walking foot. Equalizing them. When I got small foot down, needle touches material. Loosened camshaft, both feet dropped as prescribed. Tightened. And no go. Now front cam hits case casting (arrow in picture) How do I solve those 2? Even though dog moves - if I increase stitch len to anything other than smallest - it starts to rub badly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
