Looking for cylinder arm for leatherbag making. Necchi 840-100

[Wizcrafts]

8 hours ago, modanistil said:

Can you use tex 500 tread with it?

I don't know of any Tex 500 thread. The closest is v415, also known as Tex 400, or Government 6 cord linen. This size thread requires a Singer #27, or Metric #250 needle (2.5mm). My Cowboy CB4500 is rated for this size needle and thread. Other machines able to handle #415 thread are the Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-370, Adler 969 ECO, Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, Landis 1 and 3, Number 9 Machine, Luberto Classic and some Artisan and Ferdinand Bull machines. Shoe sole stitches can also handle #415 thread. Think Landis 12 and Champion dual flywheel, curved needle and awl machines. Some of these machines are obsolete, but still show up for sale now and then. There are also some other machines I didn't mention.

[modanistil]

Here you go.

Thank you @Wizcrafts for that information.

 

Wanted to ask @luxuryluke if he can sew a 3,5 mm veg tan on a 1,4 veg tan with ease on this machine. I usually do that by hand.

 

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, modanistil said:

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

This thread is for hand sewing, not machine sewing. Machines require a twisted thread, with left, or Z twist being the most common for single needle machines. Their hooks travel clockwise relative to the scarf side of the needle. If you try sewing on these machines with right twist, or no twist thread, it will unravel. Furthermore, waxed thread should not be used in a standard closed eye needle machine. It will gum up the eye! Waxed thread should either be hand sewn or machine sewn on a barbed needle and awl machine (e.g., Campbell/Randall Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch, Landis 3).

[ryano]

19 hours ago, modanistil said:

So woud it go with a tex 380? Amann serabraid as reference.Sorry not smart enough for this.

 

 

 

Thread Type	Tex Size	V number	Government Size	Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply)
Nylon	T-70	69	E	210 X 3
	T-90	92	F	210 X 4
	T-135	138	FF	420 X 3
	T-210	207	#3	630 X 3
	T-270	277	#4	840 X 3
	T-350	346	#5	840 X 4
	T-400	415	#6	1260 X 3
	T-600	554	#8	1680 X 3
	T-700	693	#10	1890 X 3
Polyester	T-70	69	E	220 X 3
	T-90	92	F	220 X 4
	T-135	138	FF	420 X 3
	T-210	207	#3	630 X 3
	T-270	277	#4	840 X 3
	T-350	346	#5	1100 X 3
	T-400	415	#6	1300 X 3
	T-600	554	#8	1300 X 4
	T-700	693	#10	2000 X 3

 

I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135)  You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415.

A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or  cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. 

 Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well.

Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle:

https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Edited January 5, 2021 by ryano
Chaged ticket to V @ 1:30pm

[ryano]

I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number.

 

The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads.

Minimum Needle US/Metric	Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket]	Government Size	Yds/Pound	Break Strength	Diameter
12/80	33 (T30) [Tkt 80]	AA	13,800	1.8 lbs	.0050" (.127mm)
14/90	46 (T45) [Tkt 60]	B	9,600	7.5 lbs	.0094" (.238mm)
16/100/ or 18/110	69 (T70) [Tkt 40]	E	6,000	11 lbs	.0115" (.292mm)
19/120	92 (T90) [Tkt 30]	F	4,200	14.5 lbs	.0133" (.337mm)
22/140	138 (T135) [Tkt 20]	FF	3,000	22 lbs	.0163" (.414mm)
23/160	207 (T210) [Tkt 15]	3 Cord	2,000	32 lbs	.0200" (.508mm)
25/200	277 (T270) [Tkt 10]	4 Cord	1,500	45 lbs	.0231" (.586mm)
26/220	346 (T350) [Tkt 8]	5 Cord	1,200	53 lbs	.0258" (.655mm)
27/250	415 (T400) [Tkt 7]	6 Cord	1,050	72 lbs	.0283" (.718mm)
30/330	554 (T600) [Tkt 5]	8 Cord	655	83 lbs	.0326" (.828mm

Edited January 5, 2021 by ryano

[modanistil]

Thnks @ryano

 

[ryano]

26 minutes ago, modanistil said:

Thnks @ryano

 

You are very welcome! I hope it I helped you out some.

[Moti]

Do you have manual for necchi 840 100?

i got only the parts book and in italics 

[Ramblingerty]

Hi @luxuryluke, do you still have the NECCHI 840-100 machine? I've just found myself in a similar situation (found an old NECCHI 840-100 machine at an amazing price that was too good to ignore. I'm picking it up this weekend and have learned so much from this thread! I wondered if you're still using the machine and are happy with the purchase