Looking for cylinder arm for leatherbag making. Necchi 840-100

[Wizcrafts]

8 hours ago, modanistil said:

Can you use tex 500 tread with it?

I don't know of any Tex 500 thread. The closest is v415, also known as Tex 400, or Government 6 cord linen. This size thread requires a Singer #27, or Metric #250 needle (2.5mm). My Cowboy CB4500 is rated for this size needle and thread. Other machines able to handle #415 thread are the Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, Juki TSC-441, Adler 205-370, Adler 969 ECO, Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall Lockstitch, Landis 1 and 3, Number 9 Machine, Luberto Classic and some Artisan and Ferdinand Bull machines. Shoe sole stitches can also handle #415 thread. Think Landis 12 and Champion dual flywheel, curved needle and awl machines. Some of these machines are obsolete, but still show up for sale now and then. There are also some other machines I didn't mention.

[modanistil]

Here you go.

Thank you @Wizcrafts for that information.

 

Wanted to ask @luxuryluke if he can sew a 3,5 mm veg tan on a 1,4 veg tan with ease on this machine. I usually do that by hand.

 

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, modanistil said:

This is just an example. I use this thread for hand sewing. Braided waxed tex 600.

This thread is for hand sewing, not machine sewing. Machines require a twisted thread, with left, or Z twist being the most common for single needle machines. Their hooks travel clockwise relative to the scarf side of the needle. If you try sewing on these machines with right twist, or no twist thread, it will unravel. Furthermore, waxed thread should not be used in a standard closed eye needle machine. It will gum up the eye! Waxed thread should either be hand sewn or machine sewn on a barbed needle and awl machine (e.g., Campbell/Randall Lockstitch, Union Lockstitch, Landis 3).

[ryano]

19 hours ago, modanistil said:

So woud it go with a tex 380? Amann serabraid as reference.Sorry not smart enough for this.

 

 

 

Thread Type	Tex Size	V number	Government Size	Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply)
Nylon	T-70	69	E	210 X 3
	T-90	92	F	210 X 4
	T-135	138	FF	420 X 3
	T-210	207	#3	630 X 3
	T-270	277	#4	840 X 3
	T-350	346	#5	840 X 4
	T-400	415	#6	1260 X 3
	T-600	554	#8	1680 X 3
	T-700	693	#10	1890 X 3
Polyester	T-70	69	E	220 X 3
	T-90	92	F	220 X 4
	T-135	138	FF	420 X 3
	T-210	207	#3	630 X 3
	T-270	277	#4	840 X 3
	T-350	346	#5	1100 X 3
	T-400	415	#6	1300 X 3
	T-600	554	#8	1300 X 4
	T-700	693	#10	2000 X 3

 

I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135)  You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415.

A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or  cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. 

 Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well.

Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle:

https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Edited January 5, 2021 by ryano
Chaged ticket to V @ 1:30pm

[ryano]

I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number.

 

The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads.

Minimum Needle US/Metric	Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket]	Government Size	Yds/Pound	Break Strength	Diameter
12/80	33 (T30) [Tkt 80]	AA	13,800	1.8 lbs	.0050" (.127mm)
14/90	46 (T45) [Tkt 60]	B	9,600	7.5 lbs	.0094" (.238mm)
16/100/ or 18/110	69 (T70) [Tkt 40]	E	6,000	11 lbs	.0115" (.292mm)
19/120	92 (T90) [Tkt 30]	F	4,200	14.5 lbs	.0133" (.337mm)
22/140	138 (T135) [Tkt 20]	FF	3,000	22 lbs	.0163" (.414mm)
23/160	207 (T210) [Tkt 15]	3 Cord	2,000	32 lbs	.0200" (.508mm)
25/200	277 (T270) [Tkt 10]	4 Cord	1,500	45 lbs	.0231" (.586mm)
26/220	346 (T350) [Tkt 8]	5 Cord	1,200	53 lbs	.0258" (.655mm)
27/250	415 (T400) [Tkt 7]	6 Cord	1,050	72 lbs	.0283" (.718mm)
30/330	554 (T600) [Tkt 5]	8 Cord	655	83 lbs	.0326" (.828mm

Edited January 5, 2021 by ryano

[modanistil]

Thnks @ryano

 

[ryano]

26 minutes ago, modanistil said:

Thnks @ryano

 

You are very welcome! I hope it I helped you out some.

[Moti]

Do you have manual for necchi 840 100?

i got only the parts book and in italics 

[Ramblingerty]

Hi @luxuryluke, do you still have the NECCHI 840-100 machine? I've just found myself in a similar situation (found an old NECCHI 840-100 machine at an amazing price that was too good to ignore. I'm picking it up this weekend and have learned so much from this thread! I wondered if you're still using the machine and are happy with the purchase

[marinicarlo]

On 11/19/2024 at 11:37 PM, Ramblingerty said:

Hi @luxuryluke, do you still have the NECCHI 840-100 machine? I've just found myself in a similar situation (found an old NECCHI 840-100 machine at an amazing price that was too good to ignore. I'm picking it up this weekend and have learned so much from this thread! I wondered if you're still using the machine and are happy with the purchase

hi there I have one and i love it. pls contact me if you need any advice!

carlo

[marinicarlo]

On 5/9/2019 at 2:33 AM, luxuryluke said:

So, after another semi-thorough cleaning, disassembly, oiling, reassembly, and inspection of the mechanics in the needlebar  and bobbin case/hook areas, I did determine that the needle bar could be adjusted to fit the standard walking foot needle size of 135x16L on this machine. After this, I've noticed:

1. At top dead center, the needlebar does top out by kissing the top of the case, so it really can't be raised anymore.
2. At bottom dead center, it doesn't hit the center of the hook assembly inside the needle gap.
3. The needle is now closely aligned to have the hook enter the scarf of the needle at the right timing and sews well with no noise or breakages

The result is that the effective stitch length is not near what it was before with the previously installed needle by the previous owner. At the longest stitch setting it went from almost 5 stitches per inch up to around 6+ stitches per inch.

I'm sure it's the geometry of the changes a new needle size made to the setup, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether the new setup is better or not for the machine. I do know that this likely isn't the correct needle for this machine, but it's working really well at this point (badump).

Below you'll see that the booklet I have specs it as a 134 needle system. Thoughts?

 

134 LR are the ones. I own 840 I love it i am from italy and here we can find parts ...please be in contact with me if you would like to exchange experience on the usage. by the way do you have any manual of the 840? this is the only thing i can't find

[shoepatcher]

On 2/25/2019 at 10:50 PM, luxuryluke said:

Indeed. Is Pfaff the originator of this shape/type of cylinder machine or is Adler? Or even someone else?

Singer came out with the 153 class which was copied by Seiko for the Seiko model and the Consew model 227.  Singer made a narrow throat walking foot.  Not sure of the exact class.  Think it was a 123 or 126.  I saw a picture of  one years ago.  I believe the Pfaff 335 came out before the 69 Adler.