Members dikman Posted March 28, 2019 Members Report Posted March 28, 2019 Even though I now have two HDPE mauls, I got an urge to make a rawhide one. A chap on youtube used a large rawhide dog bone to make one, and while in a local pet shop I saw that they had a clearance on medium sized rawhide dog bones - 3 for $15. I couldn't help myself so bought the last three. After soaking for a few hours I unravelled them and ended up with three largish pieces and a lot of small chunks, which were packed in the centre of the bones. My initial idea was to do what the guy on the youtube did, roll it up into a "Swiss roll" to make the head, but looking at what I had I wasn't sure that would work. A bit of research showed that commercially sold units used stacked discs of rawhide, similar to a stacked leather handle, so I decided to go with that. This also let me use up some of the junk bits, basically if I could cut a 2 1/2" circle out of it then it got used. I used a brass lump that I had (which had a large threaded hole in it) and fitted a piece of wood in the middle with a hole in it to mark the centre of the disc, then started cutting and punching the centre hole. The discs were then stacked between two pieces of wood, with a piece of milk jug plastic between the wood and the discs, and tightened up. According to what I've read it could take a few days to dry completely and I need to keep tightening it up regularly. More to come. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members YinTx Posted March 28, 2019 Members Report Posted March 28, 2019 Following your post, since I have a maul coming that I expect will need new rawhide, and was hoping to be able to do the work myself. Thanks for sharing! YinTx Quote YinTx https://www.instagram.com/lanasia_2017/ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLK6HvLWuZTzjt3MbR0Yhcj_WIQIvchezo
Members dikman Posted April 1, 2019 Author Members Report Posted April 1, 2019 After leaving it to dry for a few days I turned it down in the lathe. There's a couple of issues, first is that it obviously isn't dry enough as it still seems a bit soft in places. We've finally got a bit of sun so I'll leave it in the sun for a couple of days and see what happens. Second is that I can still tighten it up a bit more! I'm not sure just how tight I'm supposed to go. I'm thinking that maybe I should apply something and put it in a vacuum chamber to pull it into the hide. This might stiffen it a bit. I thought of a diluted white glue, but I also have some concrete waterproofing stuff, it's a very thin polymer so should soak in quite easily under vacuum. I also wondered whether I should have soaked the cut discs in a diluted white glue solution before stacking and clamping them. The problem with making this is that there's very little information on how to do it, virtually everything I've found is to do with rolling it up to make a mallet, not stacking discs of rawhide. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Northmount Posted April 1, 2019 Report Posted April 1, 2019 No experience here, but ... I would try baking it at a moderate temperature as that would dry it out and harden the rawhide like it does leather. I would also keep tightening it up as the moisture dissipates so the stack stays compressed as it dries. Tom Quote
Members dikman Posted April 1, 2019 Author Members Report Posted April 1, 2019 Good idea Tom, I've been fixated on drying it in the sun, of which we haven't had much for a few days, but I think you're right. I'll stick it in my small oven on low heat for a while and see what happens. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
bikermutt07 Posted April 2, 2019 Report Posted April 2, 2019 5 hours ago, dikman said: Good idea Tom, I've been fixated on drying it in the sun, of which we haven't had much for a few days, but I think you're right. I'll stick it in my small oven on low heat for a while and see what happens. When it dries completely you could always disassemble, glue, then reassemble? Just guessing.... Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members dikman Posted April 2, 2019 Author Members Report Posted April 2, 2019 I've pondered doing that (there's between 60 - 80 pieces!) but if I do that I need to have the metal end piece in place first, to tighten it up against. Which is another problem, I tried melting scrap brass to pour into suitable molds but I melted the bottom of my melting pot and lost some of the brass!! The pot is (was?) a piece of heavy-walled steel tube with a 1/4" steel plate welded on the bottom. I left it unattended for a couple of minutes, came back and saw this wonderful display of colour coming out of it and it took me a minute or so to work out it was the brass burning!!!!! When I cooled it there was obviously a hole in the bottom and the brass had fused to the steel. I've ordered a graphite crucible and will have to try again. I've had the thing in my small oven for a few hours, at about 50*C, and it feels like it's drying properly. I don't know why I didn't think of this before (dumb!). Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Northmount Posted April 2, 2019 Report Posted April 2, 2019 9 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: could always disassemble, glue, then reassemble Each piece once dry or mostly dry would have to go back in exactly the same order and orientation otherwise there would be gaps in the stack. I don't think disassembly is a good idea unless you were going to start over, soaking the rawhide, etc. Tom Quote
bikermutt07 Posted April 2, 2019 Report Posted April 2, 2019 2 hours ago, Northmount said: Each piece once dry or mostly dry would have to go back in exactly the same order and orientation otherwise there would be gaps in the stack. I don't think disassembly is a good idea unless you were going to start over, soaking the rawhide, etc. Tom That makes sense..... Like I said, I was only guessing. Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members dikman Posted April 3, 2019 Author Members Report Posted April 3, 2019 I'd already figured that out. I could mark the stack first and do it one at a time, sliding each one down the rod, but if I used diluted white glue (the logical choice) I would then have to start drying it out all over again! After leaving it overnight I checked it this morning and it felt much drier (and harder) but the whole lot had obviously shrunk and had to be tightened up again. It looks like the best way to do this type of construction is to tighten it up and then "bake" it in the oven (low heat) for a few hours, tighten again and repeat the baking/tightening cycle until it's dry and hard. Unless you live in the middle of a hot desert. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
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