Members lintonleather Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) I have recently purchased a used Fortuna Skiving machine. The machine is working however the blade is very dull and it has an old metal feed wheel and a well used sharpening stone. Also the belts are old leather straps that could do with tightening. After watching a few YouTube video I have embarked on restoring it and getting it back in tip top shape. However my knowledge on these machines is very limited so wish me luck! Can anyone help me with the following? 1. How do you replace the blade? I have striped the machine down and unscrewed the 4 screws in the blade however it’s still fixed in place. 2. Any tips on how to remove the feed wheel? The screw has seized and is causing me a lot of frustration. I’m about to attempt an impact driver and then heat. However welcome assistance. I’m sure there will be more questions soon! I will upload photos shortly. Edited April 11, 2019 by lintonleather Quote
Members jimi Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 Hi There and welcome, I think you only need to tap lightly on the back of the knife to free it, as for the screw for the feed wheel you might need some WD40 and then try again. It is tightened with an Allen key, is that right?? Quote
Members lintonleather Posted April 11, 2019 Author Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Thanks for the reply, I will try and tap the back of the blade and see if that helps. I have infant soaked the screw holding the feed wheel in WD40 and even vinegar to try and clean it however still no joy. Its not an Allen key used to remove this instead a flap screwdriver see the attached images. Edited April 11, 2019 by lintonleather Quote
Members jimi Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Possibly a little heat like you said could do the trick??. By the looks of the old paint, flat head screw at the end of the shaft and the brass arm i would think you have possibly the very old model Fortuna?? that looks like a 34mm wheel also? Edited April 11, 2019 by jimi Quote
mikesc Posted April 11, 2019 Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Try a single drop of brake fluid applied directly to the head of the screw so that it can "sink"in" around the screw..leave it to work for 24 hours.. Diesel oil ( just the stuff that trucks and tractors run on ) will also work, just not quite as well.. need to leave whatever you want to "free up" for longer.. WD40 is not a "releasing oil", despite what many people think, and, despite what it says on the can..it is a water dispersal liquid.. That is what the WD in WD40 stands for..it was the 40th mixture that the inventor tried when he was trying to make a water dispersant.. You can get the same "penetrating oil" effect , as WD40, by adding around 5% acetone to ordinary cooking oil..or sewing machine oil.. Never depend on WD40 to be a "machine oil", there is not enough "lubricating effect" in it.. Do the foregoing .."cold"..no heat applied.. If you want to try "thermal effects" to free up screws, you reduce their temperature..to shrink the screw in the threaded hole.. heating is used to free up nuts around bolts or threads , where you use heat to expand the nut away from what it is threaded onto.. Basic physics.. BTW..brake fluid strips paint ..any paint, even paint that has been on there for decades or centuries , so be precise about where you put it.. and do not let it get on your skin or on your eyes or near any mucous membranes..like your nose..etc ..wash your hands after using it, or touching anything that it touches..and don't drink or sniff it..yeah I know..but some people might be dumb enough to try ( it is like rule 34 , but Darwin awardish* ) ..so .. * look it up..Darwin awards.. Edited April 11, 2019 by mikesc Quote "Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )
Members Danne Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) 59 minutes ago, mikesc said: Try a single drop of brake fluid applied directly to the head of the screw so that it can "sink"in" around the screw..leave it to work for 24 hours.. Diesel oil ( just the stuff that trucks and tractors run on ) will also work, just not quite as well.. need to leave whatever you want to "free up" for longer.. WD40 is not a "releasing oil", despite what many people think, and, despite what it says on the can..it is a water dispersal liquid.. That is what the WD in WD40 stands for..it was the 40th mixture that the inventor tried when he was trying to make a water dispersant.. You can get the same "penetrating oil" effect , as WD40, by adding around 5% acetone to ordinary cooking oil..or sewing machine oil.. Never depend on WD40 to be a "machine oil", there is not enough "lubricating effect" in it.. Do the foregoing .."cold"..no heat applied.. If you want to try "thermal effects" to free up screws, you reduce their temperature..to shrink the screw in the threaded hole.. heating is used to free up nuts around bolts or threads , where you use heat to expand the nut away from what it is threaded onto.. Basic physics.. Heat works very good for screws too. (Not only nuts) Yes, heat makes the steel expand. What you want is movement. Also, you are going to get a difference in thermal expansion between the two "steels" (The screw, and where it's attached) Let's just assume the two "steels" would expand with linearity to each other, then the threads would also expand and you get the movement you want for the screw to loosen. Ps, I live in Europe and I have worked a decent amount on old cars, here in Europe they tend to rust EVERYWHERE so heat is used very often to break loose screws. Edited April 11, 2019 by Danne Quote
mikesc Posted April 11, 2019 Report Posted April 11, 2019 (edited) Depends upon the mass of the metal that the screws are threaded into..and the thermal properties of the screw and the metal..as to if "heating the screw" works..usually heating the screw ill make it expand into a hole that it is already stuck in..and thus make the problem worse.. In Europe ( where you and I are ) "pro garage" suppliers sell "freeze aerosols"..specifically for applying to screws that are stuck..in order to use the thermal "shrinking effect".. PS..physics doesn't care where you are ..which continent or country, or planet etc..physics applies throughout this universe..other universes may have different conditions, in fact I'd expect them to, but such speculation, whilst interesting, is really OT for this thread..but if you want to start a conversation about what might happen in other universes, or within certain things in this one such as black holes, I'm game, if If have the time ..but then time is "relative" eh ;) Edited April 11, 2019 by mikesc Quote "Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )
Members aroh99 Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 The skiving bell is not stuck. After you remove the screws inside the bell knife you need some of the tools listed below to remove it the bell knife . These are the accessories that come with the machine when you buy it. I was able to screen shot the parts you will need. You can find the manual and parts book here. Best of luck. http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PartsBooks/DCS-S3.pdf Quote
Members jimi Posted April 11, 2019 Members Report Posted April 11, 2019 5 minutes ago, aroh99 said: The skiving bell is not stuck. After you remove the screws inside the bell knife you need some of the tools listed below to remove it the bell knife I must be missing something then?? I only see the scrap ejector and the 4 screws?? nothing else holding the knife on?? Quote
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