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Posted

I guess I was thinking like most products when a new model comes out they stop making/selling the old.....

it shows 150, 151, 152, 154, 155 on the chart - just struck me that 153 was skipped. 

Are the "oil" decals available? - I LOVE seeing them on the machines in the brochure.

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Posted

you can get decals from Keeler Sales. https://singerdecals.bss.design/

They sometimes have single pieces from reject decal sets. Just browse their website and send them an email with what you could use. I´m sure they can help you.

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

From everything I am reading and looking at  - it sure does seem like my machine has the wrong plate, why do you think someone would do that??    Cowboybob suggested  the backs having the true model number - I can't imagine someone would go through the trouble of re-engraving a tag but maybe sticking a newer model tag that they had laying around (or should it be lying )!  How would you suggest I pull off that plate, grind down the top rivets or just pull it out?

Are there any destinations or clue to make it a 101vs 103? 

 

THANKS!

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Posted

I got Bamboozled..........!

(I got it free so no harm)

there was no bent pin behind the tag/inside the machine.   A utility knife eased it out  - pins came straight out.  Behind does not look like factory paint, and no engraving on the back of the tag

Last coat of paint was gloss black, at least 2 other coats of flat back below.IMG_5553.jpg.633c0f70eae44afd3841b613d4c9a7f5.jpgIMG_5552.jpg.8b3f27d49c5576382db3ffff67a1f08d.jpgIMG_5552.jpg.8b3f27d49c5576382db3ffff67a1f08d.jpgIMG_5555.jpg.9a2dff17fad544ceeee0e30f66a34b27.jpgIMG_5556.jpg.0f816c124faf2ccb6675d677ea6604d9.jpg

 

  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

Took the dissemble route.

Like everyone has said the US Military instructions are the best.   Now that I have the 2 parts separated I am going to sandblast and paint.    The inner parts (needle bar area) that have probably have never been re-painted are gloss black so thats what I will restore toIMG_5601.thumb.jpg.4bfac32a14ec4b25e545e891558db9e6.jpg.  

I could use some help on where oil wicks need to be replaced - hard to tell whats an oil wick or a bunch of dust/fuzz built up.    It does not look painted on the bed where the 2 parts meet so i am assuming it was painted together at the factory??

THANKS!

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)

Yeah, I took most of it apart, cleaned and painted and about 95% back together.  

The tension release slide that I bought (was missing when came to me) is not the right part (or is just so poorly made - from China) its not bent correctly and not pushing the pin to release the tension disks. I am going to assume my machine is a 103 and look for #260141 or 264527.  AND figured out why my stitch length knob was not working/spinning correctly - the threads were bent (see photo).  I bent them back with a hammer and punch and smoothed them the best I could with a file it spins down to 7.  

VERY impressed with this machine, every part numbered, very logical design, all iron.  I am using rolled felt as oil wicks in the pivots (I read that tip on this forum) instead of buying multi sized Singer wicks.1.jpg.a47ab362335761518d0909bceb08eb1f.jpg

I am still going to need a table and motor

I think you all might have given up on me....but figure I should post for the next person that might benefit 

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Edited by kevinkay
  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)

I’m very interested in your project. I’m about to start fixing up a 112g141, once I’ve finished the current love job - a 96k41 that I painted pink ... with flowers! Oh and I just finished restoring a 307g2, in white, and with a glittery table top. I’ll add pictures now.

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Edited by Mizzy
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Posted

Yes I know I have both a knee lifter and foot pedal as I can’t figure out yet how to connect the foot control to the back on this 307g2. So it’s there ready, waiting. 

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