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Try using very fine wet and dry paper, used wet, on a piece of glass, you should be able to get them very smooth and then finish off with metal polish. Unless you have a buffing wheel, of course.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Well - now I tried the in the DIY way. I do not claim it to be right, but here is what I did. I do have some sandpaper from grit 60 down to grit 400. On the internet I have seen, that you actually can get sandpaper with grit 60000. I have got a drill, so I used that. And I have got some scouring cream. I needed to grind with the sandpaper grit 400 about 5 min to almost get off the previous marks. The result is not perfect - I know. But perhaps somewhat better than before and i think it should be more reliable. And when I measure the thread tension it seems in order.

1450558729_scauringcreamanddrill.thumb.jpg.cb166930fcafcb032595540edcec62f0.jpg

Result after Work:

1456159387_Billedeafresultat.thumb.jpg.b11170134ce3eee731c537eb0819ff06.jpg

I made a Little video on how I use a spring dynamometer for thread tension etc. Do any of you use them? https://youtu.be/NW58ckOU6YI

Posted

Checked out your video and well done. I did something a little similar with some fish scales and for the price they work great. I wanted to post some results with these as for people that are new to using sewing machines it could be used as way of setting some idea of the parameters a machine should have in regards to the tension adjustments. Here is a link to the scales I bought and am very happy with.  https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Wh-a05l-LCD-Portable-Digital-Electronic-Scale-10-45kg-10g-for-Fishing-Luggage/15020246737?iid=323005161210

I did a little on this subject in this following post that you may want to check - only good for giggle I guess.....

 

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted

That looks a lot better than it was. You appear to have rounded off the flat part a little, but as long as it works ok is the main thing.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted
57 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Thanks Again :)

This digital scale looks nifty. But will the minimum weights be in 10 g - NeXT 20 g ? I think you may like to measure the tension from bobbin case at some more accurate small figures. So perhaps a small scale more than this. Perhaps I should link to one supplier of dynamometers. I hope the link Works from another country.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=alpinetopline&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dynamometer&_sacat=0

Posted

The scales gives the option to show Kilo's (0.000)and that is in 5gram jumps or pounds lbs (0.00) or oz (0.0) Jin (0.00) and all of these go up in individual units. Possibly on a domestic machine this may not give a fine enough reading but I would be surprised.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted
On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 8:55 AM, Gymnast said:

Well - now I tried the in the DIY way. I do not claim it to be right, but here is what I did.

Just for the record, I think the tension discs became worse after my treatment documented above. So do not repeat that. I compared these discs to two others I have got, that were not that bad. It seems to me, that the thread tension became unstable, and the static friction of the discs to the thread are considerable higher than the dynamic friction.

If you do not have the right tools for grinding and polishing these discs, I think you should replace them with new ones.

Posted

Your first pictures show marks that are normal from sanding grooves with sandpaper on a flat surface.  600 to 1000 grit paper on a flat surface will quickly take out slight grooving.  It shouldn’t matter if there are flats on the disks - flats don’t effect the consistency of tension, but any grooving is not good.  

I also don’t think a static friction test gives a person any usable information as long as the friction is consistent they are working just fine.  Tension adjustments should become second nature to even an occasional sewer.

Posted

It shouldn’t matter if there are flats on the disks


All the disks that I've ever seen* , including brand new ones from different manufacturers and suppliers, have slight flats "out of the box"..

The reason would be , I presume , to spread the pressure from the "beehive" spring evenly..a flat allows for more adjustment than a round..a round would translate to two very small points of contact with the thread as it passed between the discs of the tension assembly, which would "pinch" it rather than exert tension by "drag" across a the surface of the flats..Force exerted and focused on two points is less adjustable than the same force adjusted over a greater area ( two areas ) as presented by flats..

Note..I don't pretend to have seen all tensions discs from all manufacturers or suppliers, so readily accept that they ( tension discs with no flats ) may exist, and may even be "the norm"..

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

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Posted
On ‎5‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 6:46 PM, DonInReno said:

Your first pictures show marks that are normal from sanding grooves with sandpaper on a flat surface.  600 to 1000 grit paper on a flat surface will quickly take out slight grooving.  It shouldn’t matter if there are flats on the disks - flats don’t effect the consistency of tension, but any grooving is not good.  

I got information from another source too, that the praksis of controlled sanding and not polishing is normal. The source called for paper of grit 1000 to 2000. The reason should be, that you want some friction from these discs, and it can be hard to achieve high and stable tension without some controlled roughness of the surfaces providing the friction. Some thread can be very smooth. I noticed three people in this thread with a praksis of polishing the discs. So this seems to vary.

The aim should be, to be able to keep as Little as possible variation in the tension. Due to small differences in the thread and friction internal in the tensioner, you do not have a perfect tensioner. If you look at the pictures above, the direction of the sanding and the Width of the flat area vary around the perimeter. The discs might move around and this could also make some variation in tension.

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