RockyAussie Posted June 18, 2019 Report Posted June 18, 2019 Another thing that may be causing the problem is if you are hitting different layers while sewing close to the edge in which case have a read in this post I did awhile ago. They sold in Australia here some time back some Q stitch machines (Colt and Stallion if my memory is correct) and they came with only the slotted needle plate with no actively working dog foot. I recently did put on a servo motor on one of these for a saddler friend and noticed that they still had a dog foot under the slotted plate and that,that served to act as a sort of needle guide. If you had a spare dog foot you could grind it down to suit. I did find that it was quite reliable in the stitching and the only reason I mention this is the slotted needle plate gives a better support under the feet than when using the standard dog foot needle plate as shown in my post above. Other than that if you can track down the same feed dog and needle plate I did, I think you will be more than happy. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Silverd Posted June 18, 2019 Author Members Report Posted June 18, 2019 Rocky Without exception, my problem is stitching multiple layers close to edge applications. Halters and Bridle work or the like. I think reducing the standard feed dog needle hole width as you suggest may be a really good way to ensure the needle is correctly aligned with the hook when it exits the material. If the needle deflects one way or the other in its travel thru the work, a narrow slot in the feed dog would prevent the needle from entering the hook zone out of position. If the slot in the feed dog were chanfered, it might correct the situation good enough to make a stitch without allowing a needle / hook collision. Or it would stop the needle travel altogether...which is better done by the dog than the hook. I'm now wondering why narrow slotted dogs are not already offered. It would allow maintaining the compound feed feature of the 441 which is valuable. But is there a down side to this idea? Ill post photos of what I come up with to this end. Silverd Quote
Members DrmCa Posted June 18, 2019 Members Report Posted June 18, 2019 What size needle and thread are you using, by the way? Quote Machines: Mitsubishi DB-130 single needle, Kansai Special RX-9803/UTC coverstitch, Union Special 56300F chainstitch, Pfaff 335-17 cylinder arm walking foot, Bonis Type A fur machine, Huji 43-6 patcher, Singer 99 hand cranked, Juki DDL-553 single needle (for sale)
RockyAussie Posted June 18, 2019 Report Posted June 18, 2019 3 hours ago, Silverd said: But is there a down side to this idea? Ill post photos of what I come up with to this end I have not found ANY yet except that perhaps the sellers hope to be able to sell other machines that this one has trouble doing in its (present)standard form. I look forward to seeing any improvements you come up with. Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Silverd Posted June 19, 2019 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2019 17 hours ago, DrmCa said: What size needle and thread are you using, by the way? They range from 22 to 25 size mostly. Silverd Quote
Members Silverd Posted June 19, 2019 Author Members Report Posted June 19, 2019 On 6/18/2019 at 2:36 AM, RockyAussie said: Another thing that may be causing the problem is if you are hitting different layers while sewing close to the edge in which case have a read in this post I did awhile ago. They sold in Australia here some time back some Q stitch machines (Colt and Stallion if my memory is correct) and they came with only the slotted needle plate with no actively working dog foot. I recently did put on a servo motor on one of these for a saddler friend and noticed that they still had a dog foot under the slotted plate and that,that served to act as a sort of needle guide. If you had a spare dog foot you could grind it down to suit. I did find that it was quite reliable in the stitching and the only reason I mention this is the slotted needle plate gives a better support under the feet than when using the standard dog foot needle plate as shown in my post above. Other than that if you can track down the same feed dog and needle plate I did, I think you will be more than happy. Loosened the shoulder screws with springs as you suggested and lubricated the entire head workings, checked all hardware for tightness and reset bobin pull out tension using the 16 fluid Oz method. Reassembled and finished a few multilayer stirrup leathers without incident. I noticed the shuttle plate moves around as the shuttle occilates. This could have been the root cause but it's a little early to tell and sewing buckles onto stirrup leather is quite stable compared with sewing a padded halter together. I also ordered three feed dogs from Bob Kovar and a flat / narrow slot needle plate. That's the only plate I didnt have for this machine! I work in the machine tool industry and can have the modifications made to the feed dogs as I described done. Photos to follow. Thanks for your help. Everything you have told me makes good sense. Silverd Quote
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