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Posted

here is another angle of the control box.

20190703_045958~2.jpg

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Posted

The reason I asked is that a speed control for a clutch motor (which you have) requires complex electronics to provide variable speed, and would likely be in a rather large housing. That doesn't appear to be the case here, as to what that knob does without opening up the switch box I have no idea, sorry.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted (edited)

dikman..that "box" may go a way back behind that front panel ..that looks awfully like a rheostat / big "pot" dial..maybe enough  space in there for "gubbinses" ? if the other end of that lead is to a mains power plug , and the switch to the left is "on/off", the red light would be the "on" indicator..if the clutch motor is fed from the back of that box?..My EFKA unit ( on my Juki DLU 490-4 ) is way bigger and more complex than that box ( controls a variable speed clutch motor built by EFKA ) but it also has needle position and other stuff and way more switches and connectors..without all of that, you could fix a speed controller and an "on/off" "switch" into a half a shoebox sized box under the table.

 

More photos, from around the box ( without camera shake ) would be helpful..as would a close up of the "power plate" on the clutch motor casing.

 

Edited by mikesc

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

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Posted (edited)

Mike, I agree, that is why I asked for more photos. Whatever that knob is I'm a bit surprised that there aren't any markings around it.:dunno:

I assume the OP has tried it to see what it does? (He hasn't said).

Edited by dikman

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

H,i I will try and get some better photos.

Meanwhile here us the back side if the same circuit box.

Thank you again for all the help 

C.

 

20190703_045946.jpg

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Posted

Here is the back side of the Adler.

There us a counter box and connecting wires leading inside and in the presser foot itself?

20190704_080311.jpg

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Posted

Dial appears to be a rheostat for a heating element.  Not sure why they would want or need it, but I also don't know a lot about shoe manufacturing either, so take that for what it's worth.

Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com

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Posted

Did the seller have any information about these modifications? It was obviously customized by the previous actual user. They were probably using it in a specialized production environment.

You may have to strip out all the electronic components and wires to make use of this machine at all (if that is even doable).

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted (edited)

If that is for a heating element..maybe the idea was to heat / melt the thread that was just stitched into whatever was being sewn..would make sense if the upper was being stitched into a leather sole with a further outer sole of Rubber or PU..Melting the rubber or PU immediately after the stitch was made during stitching would protect it from abrasion ?( he said..guessing wildly ;) ) ..re "reverse"..that looks just like a plate was put there to inhibit the lever travel..I think if you take the plate off, you'll probably find that the lever goes all the way up, and thus has reverse..would make sense if the "whatever" was being melted immediately after stitches were made, you would want to be going the other way ( reverse ) and melting anything that the needle was going to be going through..that would gum up the machine something awful..I think the plate would be to prevent "operator error"..

You could as Wiz says just rip out all the wiring ..fit a servo motor..and change the feet /foot..and that makes me wonder, normally a "walking foot" machine  has two feet and a needle..Yours has only one foot and a needle that I can see from your photos..does it even have the bar for the second foot?  Parts for Adler are not cheap..

Added..Maybe the heating element was because it was used to stitch vinyl or PU with no leather involved at all..I've seen fake leather moccasins ( yes..I know..I should have averted my gaze ) heating the two layers that were being stitched together immediately after stitching ( right behind the needle ) would fuse them..

Edited by mikesc
corrected wiz ( typo ) to Wiz

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

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Posted

Hi to whizcrafts: 

No sir, the last guy I got it from said that he won it in an auction?  The gentleman that use to an it had passed and the relatives did not want to have anything to do with it?

To mikesc:

Hi, thank you for this. It lools like you may be right.  The presser/ foot does look more like a soldering piece than a traditional sewing foot?

So far I have been sewing with it and the current foot seems to be working well. But it leaves a little dimple on the leather though eifht beside the stitch?

The clutch motor is hard to control. Your right, I may need a servo for this. Nut now I'll be happy just to get a more traditional presser for it.

The pic shows the way the presser is attached.

 

20190704_123218.jpg

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