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Posted
1 hour ago, Gymnast said:

When I look at your Picture AND the video I refered to above, it seems to me that the thread is not put between the tension discs of the tensioner. I take that from the direction of the thread from the pretensioner. The thread rides on the top. It should be pulled in between these discs.

No, it's an illusion. It is exactly the way Ryan demonstrates in the video and the way I have been doing it from Day 1. I get a perfect stitch when stitching 2 pieces of 5oz but having trouble with the single.

 

Bob

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Posted

Looking at the photo's it does not look like "bonded nylon" as the individual threads are showing loose all along both images

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Posted
4 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Looking at the photo's it does not look like "bonded nylon" as the individual threads are showing loose all along both images

The first two microscope photos are a new spool that was supposed to be bonded but the subsequent  photos are from my old stock purchased from Bob Kovar and are bonded.

BTW I occasionally used to be the club champion at the Christmas Common Sporting Clay Club when I lived in Berks. Not fun when the temp is 45C and no bacon butty sandwiches to be had! Also lectured in photography at what was Surrey College of Art and Design and also Trent and Derby..

Bob

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Posted

The easiest way to set the stopper for the check spring is to tighten the top tensioners on the thread, then loosen the set screw on the stop bracket and lower it as you hand wheel the needle down. Once the needle hits the top layer, add a touch more travel and tighten the set screw. This may need to be fine tuned but will keep the top thread taut until the needles penetrates the top layer.

As for thread tension, I run with just enough bobbin thread tension to require a noticeable pull. Then I balance the knots with the top tensioner and sometimes with the secondary tensioner.

Thread size matters with thin leather. When sewing 5 ounces on my Cowboy, I use a #19 needle with #69 or #92 thread. Anything larger makes it difficult to bury the knots. Also, it is not recommended to sew under 6 ounces on a 441 clone.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
46 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

Thread size matters with thin leather. When sewing 5 ounces on my Cowboy, I use a #19 needle with #69 or #92 thread. Anything larger makes it difficult to bury the knots. Also, it is not recommended to sew under 6 ounces on a 441 clone.

I was waiting for someone to post this! I remember this vaguely when I got  started. Plan A is to move to a heavier leather. Plan B is to keep painting the knots black with a Sharpie, looks great if you don't get too close. My latest batch of drum dyed purchased for this production run is noticeably thinner than usual. I was hoping I could make some changes in setup that would help. This is the main headache, again only on 5-6 oz. 

Stitch-Through-Thread.jpg

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Posted
1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

The easiest way to set the stopper for the check spring is to tighten the top tensioners on the thread, then loosen the set screw on the stop bracket and lower it as you hand wheel the needle down. Once the needle hits the top layer, add a touch more travel and tighten the set screw. This may need to be fine tuned but will keep the top thread taut until the needles penetrates the top layer.

Did this and it's the first improvement I've had. Not perfect but better than the above pic.

 

Thanks! BTW I picked up an EUB a year or so ago..FUN!

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Posted

I want to thank you all for the input. It seems there was no one issue but a combination of tuning the catch spring stop, changing back to a 23 needle with 138 thread, reworking the bobbin tension seems to have corrected the problem. I will give it some more attention tomorrow but as of tonight I am a happy camper and will be able to complete my order with confidence.

 

Thanks again!!

Bob

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Posted

There is a trick you can try that uses larger thread on top and thinner thread on the bottom. In your sample, you seem to like #277 on top. Tyr this. Load #277 white or straw thread on top.  Install a #24 needle. Load the bobbin with #92 or #138 black thread and tighten down the bobbin tension spring. Back off the top tension disks to let the bobbin thread pull the knots down low, but inside the flesh side. If you use black thread on the bottom, the visible, semi-buried black knots won't need a Sharpie to bring them out visually.

Adjust the check spring as necessary to keep the top thread taut.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Thanks! I have done that in the past, using a lighter black bobbin thread but it wouldn't work for this application. Also, I have used 207 with a 24  for these tests but switched back to 138 with a 23.I am still not sure I have the check spring operating properly. It certainly doesn't seem to keep the tension on the thread as the needle is piercing the leather. I'll shoot a video tomorrow..

 

Bob

Posted

In your picture above showing the thread check spring the stopper is set to the top and it should be way lower. You have found that out but have a look and make sure the the thread check spring is not rubbing against the cover as that can act to stop the proper and full travel. You may need to get in and make sure its clearing and it may need to be positioned to be tighter as well. There is a nut inside the cover to reposition the tension if I remember correctly. You undo turn the tension shaft stud and do the nut back up.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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