Members BDAZ Posted July 20, 2019 Author Members Report Posted July 20, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I would consider opening up a slot in the middle foot (shown below) as you can see better and it makes the threading a whole lot easier. I use the front of the foot as a guide for following sharp curves. If anything, I'd cut an index mark dead center. Bob Edited July 20, 2019 by BDAZ Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted July 20, 2019 Moderator Report Posted July 20, 2019 8 hours ago, Gymnast said: Yes, it is some kind of illusion to me :). I think I watched 5 other videos on youtube regarding this subject now, and they all looks equal and as on your machine. They all seems to me like the thread do not go between the discs on the main top thread tensioner. So I hope I can learn something too. With the pretensioner Ryan in the video clearly indicates, that the thread must be pulled in between the discs. But he do not show the same regarding the main tensioner. Are the tension discs different on the main tensioner? Do the thread go around the discs near the outer perimeter of these discs? I normally see the thread commes in around the post, that may be only about 1/4" diameter, and I do not see this happen here. On all of the 441 type machines, the bottom "disk" is really just a roller with raised edges. It is a carry over from the ancient 45k series that ran waxed linen thread. One winds the top thread around the roller disk between 1.5 and 2 turns. This gives some fine control over the upper tension. It gives the check spring a good back pressure to work off of. But, the bottom roller does not replace the top tension disks. It augments them. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members Gymnast Posted July 20, 2019 Members Report Posted July 20, 2019 27 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said: But, the bottom roller does not replace the top tension disks. It augments them. Thank you Wiz, for explaining this to me and the historic background. I suppose you mean, that you still need a pretensioner with disks in order for the roller main tensioner to operate. Quote Sewing Machines in Detail, YouTube channel
Members BDAZ Posted July 20, 2019 Author Members Report Posted July 20, 2019 (edited) Speaking of check springs, I took off the front cover this morning and reduced the check spring tension spring tension (whew, that's a mouth full) by 50%-60%. Now I can reduce the top tension to the point where I can almost get knots on the bottom (never happened before) and I get full travel on the check spring with every stitch. Feels like I just bought a new machine!! Single layer 5-6 oz stitches with 138 and a 23 needle are perfect! No stitching trough the thread, all is good!! Thanks again to everyone who contributed to solving this problem. Last question would there be any advantage to cutting a couple of felt discs for the upper top tensioner? I have not fine tuned the upper tension yet, this is the first shot with the adjusted catch spring. The leather is exactly 2mm / 5oz. I just notice I need to back off the foot tension which I increased when the cover was off... Bob Edited July 20, 2019 by BDAZ Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted July 21, 2019 Moderator Report Posted July 21, 2019 Yea Team! Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members jimi Posted July 21, 2019 Members Report Posted July 21, 2019 15 hours ago, BDAZ said: Last question would there be any advantage to cutting a couple of felt discs for the upper top tensioner? No, because it is not a wheel, they are normal static disks. Quote
Members BDAZ Posted July 21, 2019 Author Members Report Posted July 21, 2019 Sorry, I was referring to the lower upper tensioner. I think someone had mentioned in another thread that most 441 type machines include felt washers between the metal discs and the roller wheel. Bob Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted July 21, 2019 Moderator Report Posted July 21, 2019 6 hours ago, BDAZ said: Sorry, I was referring to the lower upper tensioner. I think someone had mentioned in another thread that most 441 type machines include felt washers between the metal discs and the roller wheel. Bob The lower roller doesn't move very much, nor very fast on these machines. As long as it isn't actually binding, leave it alone. If you do add a felt washer, make sure it doesn't interfere with the check spring. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members BDAZ Posted July 21, 2019 Author Members Report Posted July 21, 2019 Thanks! Not binding ...if it ain't broke..... Bob Quote
RockyAussie Posted July 21, 2019 Report Posted July 21, 2019 On 7/21/2019 at 2:55 AM, BDAZ said: Last question would there be any advantage to cutting a couple of felt discs for the upper top tensioner? I would be surprised if they were not there. Check the No 13 felts in this pdf pic extracted from a Cowboy manual Tension Post Components.pdf Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
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