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Posted

Also, because the aluminum is 1/8" and the saw kerf is also 1/8" it is a very snug fit. The poly does not slide around at all, it really stay put.

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Posted

impressive!  Thanks for showing us how it's done!  I was thinking of ways to achieve this result, but would never have thought of this kind of jig!

 

Neil

  • Members
Posted

I love this idea!  Thank you for sharing. The pictures help a lot

  • Members
Posted

Neilmott, Miss Denise

You are welcome. 

 

 

 

Posted

You could also use this jig to stamp a border along an edge. A friend showed me his design, which was a simple version of this. Pics to follow when I get a chance to take some.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

  • Members
Posted

Rockoboy,

Yes, I like that idea. 

 

Posted

Here you go @JamesR.

Pics hereabouts, of my basic edge stamping guide.

You can see the two rebates on this little piece of timber. One side is a little deeper so that makes the edge stamping a little further from the edge.

 

Stamping Guide a.jpg

Stamping Guide.jpg

Stamping Guide b.jpg

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

  • Members
Posted

Some great ideas there guys,thankyou both for sharing 

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted (edited)

What an awesome jig for straight lines.  I hadn't thought of a guide to keep the chisel vertical. Expand on the versatility a little for curves by using a square block sitting on top of the 2 layers of leather and hold a 2 prong chisel to the block with your thumb. I am thinking the straight (lateral not vertical) side of the block is needed instead of a curved side because if the chisel isn't on the vertical apex of the curved block it will be angled, not vertical. I could be wrong in the head though.

Edited by GeneH
  • Members
Posted (edited)

GeneH

Not sure if I follow about the curved vs straight block. I like the idea though of a movable block with a recess (rabbet)on the lower edge to keep the stitch line uniformly spaced from the edge. 

Edited by JamesR

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