Mark842 Report post Posted August 5, 2019 1 hour ago, RockyAussie said: Do you not get any manual with this thing? The entire manual that came with my NP-4 is 6 pages. 4 of the 6 are illustrated parts breakdowns. The other two pages are basically what you would have if someone speaking Chinese used Google translate. An example....here is the entire section on how to sharpen the blade. 4) When Knife is blunt, set the clutch leveler at work position, and then slowly turn the screw to grind the knife. That's it. I'm pretty good at figuring out machines but when I purchased mine, having never seen one in person and with the overwhelming amount of information in the instruction manual I have to say it was Youtube that taught me the basics. Am I doing everything right? Don't know. I am however getting very good skives daily with it. And no, I never pull the leather. I've never had to. Once I figured out which foot was for what by trial and error and how to properly set the presser foot tension the leather just glides through nice and easy on its own. And yes, I get nervous watching how close the operators fingers are coming to the bell knife on some of them videos. The only thing I have an issue with that may be because I'm doing something wrong or maybe it's the nature of the beast. Every couple of long skives I have to grab my handy dandy wooden pencil I keep right there and reach underneath to clear leather from inside and around the bell or it will start to jam up the works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 5, 2019 Sounds like you are getting it figured out alright. Does the parts manual show a diagram of the feed stone wiper with a spring? Could you post a picture of it if so? 22 minutes ago, Mark842 said: how to properly set the presser foot tension the leather just glides through nice and easy on its own Where you say pressure foot pressure, do you mean the feed stone pressure? I am not aware of any pressure foot pressure adjustment . I only have a Fortuna and a F.A.V.2 skiver so perhaps these may have something else I am not aware of. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted August 5, 2019 (edited) Here is a link from another topic that has a Campbell Randall manual, i think there is another topic which has a FAV one also, and i have one in PDF which i can send by email. I have managed to take some pictures for reference if this might help. The metal guide on your machine is not present on mine so the only thing i can say about that is to bring it all the way back until your ejector in the knife is set then re set it. Personally it looks like it is just looking for something to get stuck on it?? If anyone is wondering, the spring on the scraper of the wheel feed is homemade and not original. It came with another homemade one but botched with less spring so i made one according to the parts sheet. (a slightly better botch) Edited August 5, 2019 by jimi Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted August 5, 2019 17 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I have to ask if it would be possible to do a short video of the machine I'll do what I can, but in past I have not had luck uploading videos. Takes hours, and u-tube says too much data for a 3 minute video. I am not sure how folks upload 1.5 hours of 1080p video - they know something I don't! On 8/4/2019 at 12:27 PM, keithski122 said: I don't suppose you can get a pic up on how the spring for the feed wheel scraper is fixed as mine Better photos than I will get are above! Seems like this thread may be helping more folks than just myself.. Thank you all that are providing assistance! 17 hours ago, RockyAussie said: Do you not get any manual with this thing? Yep, the 6 pager. Purty lame. 17 hours ago, RockyAussie said: For anyone that ever sees this post please understand that there should NEVER be an occasion for you to ever have to pull the leather through a skiver. yeah, I think I saw that video. Had the bell set way back too if I recall. I kinda trusted other videos more, didn't really follow anything from that one. 17 hours ago, RockyAussie said: you'd think I might know what I am doing. You do. Lots of experience speaks volumes. I'm trying to listen and learn here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted August 5, 2019 (edited) YinTX What do you use to make / take your videos ?..and what kind of computer do you have windows or mac or linux..or ... ? Edited August 5, 2019 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keithski122 Report post Posted August 5, 2019 (edited) This is how I'd love to get mine working like Edited August 5, 2019 by keithski122 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted August 5, 2019 27 minutes ago, keithski122 said: This is how I'd love to get mine working like Lol wouldn’t we’ll all?? Pretty sure this guy has a nippy and I’ve heard nothing but good things about those. Seems hard to find in the states though. I’m currently in the market for a skiving machine myself, one with 2 motors in hopes of lessening the learning curve so this thread is helpful. Really hope the original poster can get through this issue. It would really suck to have a $1500 paper weight! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted August 5, 2019 17 hours ago, RockyAussie said: Sounds like you are getting it figured out alright. Does the parts manual show a diagram of the feed stone wiper with a spring? Could you post a picture of it if so? Where you say pressure foot pressure, do you mean the feed stone pressure? I am not aware of any pressure foot pressure adjustment . I only have a Fortuna and a F.A.V.2 skiver so perhaps these may have something else I am not aware of. Can we still get you to make us one of the roller feet? What would we need to send u down to do so? I believe most of these skiving machine parts are interchangeable. Do u have suggestions on the vacuum extractor (maybe I missed the link). Until your reasoning I honestly didn’t see a purpose for one, sounded like one more thing to make noise in my (home) studio which I don’t want, but sounds like it could be necessary! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted August 5, 2019 @jimi those are some fantastic photos. Some similarities and differences, at least I can see how the thing might be put together. Thanks for the links, definitely helpful. 4 hours ago, mikesc said: YinTX What do you use to make / take your videos ?..and what kind of computer do you have windows or mac or linux..or ... ? Took the video with an old Samsung SIII phone, and have a MacBook... barely compatible with each other lol. I'll fart around this week and see if I can get some of the videos I took today to upload... 2 hours ago, MG513 said: It would really suck to have a $1500 paper weight! Yep, I have two of them already, don't want a third. Hoping I can get the other two functional with some simple parts, like a bushing, but the suppliers won't quote me a part. Going to have to have them made it looks like. The world we live in. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 5, 2019 13 hours ago, jimi said: I have managed to take some pictures for reference if this might help. The metal guide on your machine is not present on mine so the only thing i can say about that is to bring it all the way back until your ejector in the knife is set then re set it. Thank you soooo much for the info and pictures there @jimi .I note that your wiper looks to be metal, Is that so? and does it actually make contact as the feed roll revolves or is there an adjustment screw to set it just clear? I notice also that yours looks a lot more to the centre of the feed roll than on YinTx's and I think that is better if it can be done. On yours where you have some kinks in your brass deflector,it is worth when you have it out next to tap them out and just a little past so that it keeps them pressed in tightly. As you would know little pieces get stuck in there and can be hard to get out and if you need to do any cardboard skiving it will play havoc getting stuck. It is interesting in the manual from that other post that the wiper blade has open ends where it bolts on which to me makes since if you want to increase or decrease the pressure or adjust out more when it wears down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 5, 2019 2 hours ago, keithski122 said: This is how I'd love to get mine working like That is how they should all go. Note that the flatter end on the guide helps the leather to not pull in and the leather quality can have a fair bit to do with how well it feeds through as well. Some leather have feel agents (waxes/silicon's)on them which allows for less top friction and therefore beautiful skiving. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 6, 2019 3 hours ago, MG513 said: Can we still get you to make us one of the roller feet? What would we need to send u down to do so? I believe most of these skiving machine parts are interchangeable. Do u have suggestions on the vacuum extractor (maybe I missed the link). Until your reasoning I honestly didn’t see a purpose for one, sounded like one more thing to make noise in my (home) studio which I don’t want, but sounds like it could be necessary! If you have not bought a skiver already I would urge you to seriously consider getting one with suction as I said earlier in this post with this link http://www.techsew.com/machinery/techsew-sk-4-leather-skiving-machine-with-vacuum-suction-device.html For that sort of money and finance and back up I would be going that way. As for the roller I think this one would fit and be a good all rounder https://campbell-randall.com/product/fav-1498c-roller-foot-with-30mm-1498-roller If you really want one the same as my brass one after you get a machine with some standard feet you could send me one down and I could make one up. Cost would be $100 + about $20 postage. The only mention I have made of setting one of these machines up with an extractor is referred to earlier in this post and as I only have 2 of these machines that both have extractors I don't have any reason to make one up. I would love to if I had one here to do as I think it would be fairly simple and fun to do. If anyone gets serious about doing it I am more than happy to walk them through it. For a start all of them wipers could go in the bin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted August 6, 2019 1 hour ago, YinTx said: @jimi Yep, I have two of them already, don't want a third. Hoping I can get the other two functional with some simple parts, like a bushing, but the suppliers won't quote me a part. Going to have to have them made it looks like. The world we live in. YinTx Whoa! Do u mean machines that you aren’t currently putting to use or skiving machines specifically?? (I hope not the latter!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MG513 Report post Posted August 6, 2019 8 minutes ago, RockyAussie said: If you have not bought a skiver already I would urge you to seriously consider getting one with suction as I said earlier in this post with this link http://www.techsew.com/machinery/techsew-sk-4-leather-skiving-machine-with-vacuum-suction-device.html For that sort of money and finance and back up I would be going that way. As for the roller I think this one would fit and be a good all rounder https://campbell-randall.com/product/fav-1498c-roller-foot-with-30mm-1498-roller If you really want one the same as my brass one after you get a machine with some standard feet you could send me one down and I could make one up. Cost would be $100 + about $20 postage. Thx for the reply. I currently make footwear but I’m looking to get into bag making so I need this thing not mark, like ever (per say). I think that price is very fair, will keep that in mind once I do pull the trigger! I’m thinking of getting a Ferdco because it comes with the 2 motors for better control. Unfortunately due to space constraints I personally couldn’t do the vac even if I wanted too. I would need to get the usual table cut down to pretty much the size of the actual skiver itself. I’ve seen many Asian makers due this for the same reasona. Probably butt it up against one of my sewing machine tables to have some sort of space for longer panels of leather to lay while skiving though, but the full size table is out for me. Will still have to find another solution for this leather bunching problem though... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted August 6, 2019 (edited) YinTX.. Go here.. https://handbrake.fr/downloads.php It is in English, freeware, no ads..open source..you may need to use the archives link if your mac is old.. Download handbrake..install it..use it to convert and or make your recordings smaller..for uploading to youtube..or just so that they take up less space on your hard drives..For youtube ..go to the "presets" ( on the right hand side of Handbrake when it is open ) click "web..then click "Vimeo Youtube 720p30". Then go to top left of the interface..choose"open source" navigate to your source file..When you have chosen, check that "Vimeo Youtube 720p30" is still the quality that it will convert to..Click "start"..it may ask you to choose name for the file and a destination..if it does, do so..and click start again.. It may take a long time to convert / shrink a video file..This "time" depends on how big the file is and how powerful your computer is..When the conversion is done..you will be able to upload to Vimeo or youtube with getting the "too much data" messages. Handbrake uses nearly 100% of your processor in order to work, so don't worry if the computer gets sluggish, and the fan gets noisy while it is working..If you need to use the computer before it has finished the conversion, you can click "pause" and it will do so and you'll get your other programs ( email etc ) working at near normal sped ( this is because it keeps itself in RAM until you close the it )..When you want it to start converting again on a paused file, just click "resume", and it will take up where it left off..with no "blips" etc. Newer computers will still run it at Nearly 100% CPU..but the sluggishness will not be so bad..the conversion times will also be shorter. HTH :) Handbrake works on Windows, Mac and linux..For "other OS" types, run it in a "virtual machine"..or "dual boot"..If you are running Linux or "other OS" types ( not Win, nor Mac ), you'll already know how to do this ;)..AFAIK , it is not yet available for android or iphones etc. Edited August 6, 2019 by mikesc typo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted August 6, 2019 8 hours ago, RockyAussie said: Thank you soooo much for the info and pictures there @jimi .I note that your wiper looks to be metal, Is that so? and does it actually make contact as the feed roll revolves or is there an adjustment screw to set it just clear? Oh no problem, sorry i could not get them up earlier. Yes it is metal Brian, and very worn down. It does touch the wheel, it scrapes the surface and the spring is just lightly pushing. I do not know what the original is like as it was missing but it is loose enough to move it out a little to the centre no problems if it is off. the holder is aluminium but the blade steel. I will have to get the grinder out and look for another piece of steel as this one has worn down that much that the holder is almost touching the wheel where the bottom of the curve is. Also i have noticed that if a small piece of split manages to pass the scraper depending on the thickness it can get stuck as the holder is so near the wheel. No adjuster screws on this Brian, i would imagine if you wanted more pressure just give the spring another wind?? Yes the Campbell Randall blade looks like it can be adjusted outwards with the slits?? I did notice those little kinks before Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 6, 2019 6 minutes ago, jimi said: Oh no problem, sorry i could not get them up earlier. Yes it is metal Brian, and very worn down. It does touch the wheel, it scrapes the surface and the spring is just lightly pushing. I do not know what the original is like as it was missing but it is loose enough to move it out a little to the centre no problems if it is off. the holder is aluminium but the blade steel. I will have to get the grinder out and look for another piece of steel as this one has worn down that much that the holder is almost touching the wheel where the bottom of the curve is. Also i have noticed that if a small piece of split manages to pass the scraper depending on the thickness it can get stuck as the holder is so near the wheel. No adjuster screws on this Brian, i would imagine if you wanted more pressure just give the spring another wind?? Yes the Campbell Randall blade looks like it can be adjusted outwards with the slits?? I did notice those little kinks before Thanks for that @jimi. Would it be worth considering to use a piece of teflon or nylon instead of the steel wiper? I dont know the noise and wear factor on the feed wheel with the steel one but I would have thought the others may be better. I don't notice much metal embedded in your feed wheel so I assume that the spring pressure is quite light and just well positioned. The slop on the shaft probably helps as well with keeping it centred over the stone curve I think. I would very much like to see some comparable pics of how YinTx's Cobra wiper is orientated as against yours which I think is a Fortuna if I am correct. Can anybody with a Cowboy or Cobra skiver post any other pictures to assist in any further comparison discussions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted August 6, 2019 1 minute ago, RockyAussie said: Would it be worth considering to use a piece of teflon or nylon instead of the steel wiper? Well it would be a lot easier to work a new one up, that´s for sure. i do not think it makes a lot of difference on the stone really as it scrapes very lightly and like you said there are no traces of metal on the stone. I have just emailed Fortuna to see if i can get some info from them, as in their parts manual they have 2 types of springs, 2 types of holders and 2 types of blades, so i will see what they have to say. Yes it is a Fortuna Brian, ...but it didn´t cost a Fortuna gladly..Lol.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 6, 2019 5 minutes ago, jimi said: Well it would be a lot easier to work a new one up, that´s for sure. i do not think it makes a lot of difference on the stone really as it scrapes very lightly and like you said there are no traces of metal on the stone. I have just emailed Fortuna to see if i can get some info from them, as in their parts manual they have 2 types of springs, 2 types of holders and 2 types of blades, so i will see what they have to say. Yes it is a Fortuna Brian, ...but it didn´t cost a Fortuna gladly..Lol.. It is great that you have a good contact there jimi. I will look forward to see what they can come back with on this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark842 Report post Posted August 6, 2019 (edited) On 8/4/2019 at 9:23 PM, RockyAussie said: Could you post a picture of it if so? Here you go. The list of parts does not label any of the vague scribbles as a spring. On 8/4/2019 at 9:23 PM, RockyAussie said: Where you say pressure foot pressure, do you mean the feed stone pressure? For what it's worth, the owners manual calls it a presser bar. One the other end of the presser bar adjustment screw. What I'm calling the presser foot is the foot you pass the leather under when skiving. I have no idea what the proper name of it is. Edited August 6, 2019 by Mark842 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 6, 2019 Thanks @Mark842 I found some pics in a manual that help. I wish I could say that I have found some video's worth watching on this subject but have found nothing that I could really recommend. I absolutely hate making videos due to lack of confidence in my speaking/voice but I am starting to think I might just have to. For instance the sharpening guidelines mentioned in a video earlier in this post and his later video showing how to skive leather are not very good at all. They sort off remind me how it was when I first started using a skiver and being almost scared off it. I don't agree with his dropping back the bell and putting a second bevel on the edge and then bringing it back forward. The grabbing/bunching up at the start and hesitation as he starts a skive would be avoided by just angling the start and taking a little piece off the corner first and then going full in. This overcomes the stall so to speak as well as the occasional hole cut. If the blade is sharp and the feed correct there should be no difficulty holding the leather in place as it slides through. I am in no way meaning to rubbish these videos as anyone going to trouble to share their knowledge should be commended but unfortunately if no one says something then many may assume what they see to be correct. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark842 Report post Posted August 7, 2019 1 hour ago, RockyAussie said: Thanks @Mark842 I found some pics in a manual that help. I wish I could say that I have found some video's worth watching on this subject but have found nothing that I could really recommend. I absolutely hate making videos due to lack of confidence in my speaking/voice but I am starting to think I might just have to. For instance the sharpening guidelines mentioned in a video earlier in this post and his later video showing how to skive leather are not very good at all. They sort off remind me how it was when I first started using a skiver and being almost scared off it. I don't agree with his dropping back the bell and putting a second bevel on the edge and then bringing it back forward. The grabbing/bunching up at the start and hesitation as he starts a skive would be avoided by just angling the start and taking a little piece off the corner first and then going full in. This overcomes the stall so to speak as well as the occasional hole cut. If the blade is sharp and the feed correct there should be no difficulty holding the leather in place as it slides through. I am in no way meaning to rubbish these videos as anyone going to trouble to share their knowledge should be commended but unfortunately if no one says something then many may assume what they see to be correct. I would love to see some videos from you on these skivers. I had actually never watched Cechaflo's videos on the skiver. I knew Al Bane had video's out there before I purchased mine and I knew it was the exact same model skiver. That being said, I watched all the Cechaflo videos on this post now and I did enjoy them. I do see what you are referring to with him putting the second bevel edge and I can think of no reason why you would want to do that. So while there may be some stuff in there that isn't optimal I can at least say that now I know how to disassemble my skiver when the time comes to change my feed wheel or sharpening stone. I kind of feel that all the videos have some good stuff in them but like I said I had nothing to start with. There are things that drive me nuts. Biggest being the leather clumping up in the bell and jamming stuff up. Mine had the little rubber gizmo the other guys has that he said as soon as he cleaned it out the next piece of leather promptly got stuck there. That was my experience also and that little piece of rubber is long gone on mine. It works better without it in there and with the silly little drawer that is supposed to be a scrap catcher. I guess if you skive 2 inches of leather a month that might be a viable option. I just took some plastic sheeting and some hanger wire and built me a 45 degree angle ramp for the leather to slide down into a box I can sit on the floor next to the stand. Seems like If I'm skiving something longer than about 7-8 inches the knife will safe clean, its only the short runs that stay in the knife. I've just gotten used to it and stop every few cuts, reach under with my wood poker and knock the leather out. Luckily most of what I skive is for piping so I'm doing long pieces. And as for confidence in your speaking voice...maybe right a script and have someone else narrate while you operate. I'm sure I still have a lot to learn using this skiver....like everything else in life I'm still learning how to use things I've been using for 40+ years... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimi Report post Posted August 7, 2019 23 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I will look forward to see what they can come back with on this. Nothing new really... did not have me thinking cap on when i asked them. OF COURSE.. one is for the 34 mm feed wheel and the other for the 50 mm feed wheel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted August 7, 2019 12 hours ago, Mark842 said: That was my experience also and that little piece of rubber is long gone on mine. It works better without it in there and with the silly little drawer that is supposed to be a scrap catcher. I'm beginning to think this is the best option. And that drawer is just there to cause jambs. And to make the mfr's feel like they did something to catch the leather for you. 14 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I wish I could say that I have found some video's worth watching on this subject but have found nothing that I could really recommend. I absolutely hate making videos due to lack of confidence in my speaking/voice but I am starting to think I might just have to There just simply doesn't seem to be much out there, so anything that helps clear the mud or adds another way to do things can only help. I've seen one or two of your videos and had no problem understanding what you say, so just be fearless, yah? I haven't had time to mess with the thing this week, but have been trying to keep up with the info posted here, so thanks much to everyone participating, great info showing up so far! YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted August 8, 2019 20 hours ago, YinTx said: I'm beginning to think this is the best option. And that drawer is just there to cause jambs. And to make the mfr's feel like they did something to catch the leather for you. There just simply doesn't seem to be much out there, so anything that helps clear the mud or adds another way to do things can only help. I've seen one or two of your videos and had no problem understanding what you say, so just be fearless, yah? I haven't had time to mess with the thing this week, but have been trying to keep up with the info posted here, so thanks much to everyone participating, great info showing up so far! YinTx I been thinkin......................yeah it happens occasionally, that I could print up a vacuum scoop to retrofit on to these bell skivers. I would need to know a couple of measurements on the Cobra /Cowboy and any others that are similar. The first is what thickness is the table that the machine is on. The second is the distance from the bell to the machine base as in this picture below Mine as you can see in this close up is about 23mm The next one I need is the distance from the bell edge to the inner machine frame edge. Mine is 65mm. Note on my Fortuna that there is a relief cut out for the suction tube which may not be there on the other models. See picture below These below are the vacuum scoop shape that I am talking about printing a version of. This would come up through the hole in the table and bolt in place from underneath and the attach to a 65mm nominal size pvc elbow. After that it can go into a printed funnel shaped reducer to a typical 35mm vacuum cleaner pipe if you want to go with that or a collection box can be adapted in between if desired. I intend to do some vacuum checks first to compare what difference there is on my Fortuna against a shop Vac vacuum cleaner. The only disadvantage I can think is that the vacuum may need to be off when sharpening the bell blade in case any sparks could be picked up. As for the videos ..I will see if I can come up with a few short instructional ones in a sort of a series. It takes me forever to do editing on these and if I try to do too much together in one it may never happen. While I am on the video subject I would like you to note the video of the nippy that a couple of people said they would like theirs to go like. Watch only the feed stone and take note of how many times you see leather going around and around and even a large strip fly out. I am happy to say that is something I almost never see on mine. FACT is every time one of those little pieces is coming around you end up with a thinner piece where that bit comes through. Sometimes that don't matter but it looks pretty awful on a smooth bit of leather when it gets glued down. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
