Can you help me understand the difference between the juki dnu1541s and the juki du1508ns?

[Silverd]

Hi Wizcrafts

Can you help me understand the difference between the juki dnu1541s and the juki du1508ns?

 

Silverd

[kgg]

I think the Juki LU-1508NS is a more sturdier built machine then the Juki DNU-1541S made for heavier needs. When I was looking for a new machine what I found when comparing the machines the differences to be were:

Cost: Juki DNU-1541S ~ $1800 US vs Juki LU-1508NS ~$2600 US

The Juki DNU-1541S is lighter built machine and weights in at over 13 lbs lighter  (80.5 lb vs 93.7 lb) then the Juki LU-1508NS.

Both look almost identical except the the bed size of the Juki DNU-1541S is 1.6 inches smaller then the Juki LU-1508NS, (477x178mm vs 517mmx178mm)

Both have the same max thread size of V138. If you need / like to go to V207 you have to move up to the Juki LU-1509n

Both use the same needle system 135x16/17 and both have the same max stitch length of 9mm forward / reverse

The Juki 1541 S has a lower presser foot lift by knee 16 vs 18mm then the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a horizontal axis hook assembly vs the vertical of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a greater needle distance to machine arm of 264mm vs 255mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a smaller needle bar stroke of 36mm vs 38mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a shorter amount of altering vertical movement of 2.5~6.5mm vs 2.5~8.5mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

kgg

 

 

 

[brmax]

Silverd: its a bit like mentioned in the prior postings, both are in the upholstery class. Many in canvas as I use them, they have a bit newer design in some ways. As in the way the feed mechanism rotates; a more square if ya will. 

In any case the Juki 1508 is a “Top” load bobbin. Where as the Juki 1541 is in laymen term a “ Side “ load bobbin, so in short order learning to load from underneath left and above your left knee. Its as said learned in short order and not at all an issue. They are both superb machines from Japan and both copied through out the world. I suppose for a reason. 

In any event they both are most likely lite for the present discussion, regards to the current project photos posted. Its a struggle to select a machine, but one will be forced to select projects best suited to the machine no matter what the operator wants. And thats funny  And Im still struggling to conform  

good day

Floyd

[SARK9]

41 minutes ago, brmax said:

In any case the Juki 1508 is a “Top” load bobbin. Where as the Juki 1541 is in laymen term a “ Side “ load bobbin,

.....And the 1508 has the larger *U* style bobbin. where the 1541 is an *M* style.

-DC

Edited July 29, 2019 by SARK9

[Wizcrafts]

On 7/28/2019 at 12:43 PM, Wizcrafts said:

LU-1508NH: about $2600

I was out by about $800 on the price of this machine. They sell in the mid-3ks. This sub-model NH is different than the simple N or NS. It is factory modified to use the longer System 190 needles, has a longer stroke and sews up to a full half inch with #207 thread, top and bottom. Below is a quote of the specs compared to the regular 1508N and NS...

The H in 1508H means very heavy duty, with longer stroke 190R Needles which allows for thicker fabrics and higher foot lift, a bigger hole in needle plate for thicker threads, and bigger teeth on the feed dogs which allow better feeding on thicker fabrics, etc compared to 1508N and 1541N that take shorter stroke 135x17 needles.

N Stands for the Color: White
H Stands for Extra Heavy Duty 10-15% heavier duty than the Standard NS Version, with a longer needle and higher stroke.
 

[Silverd]

 

 

22 hours ago, kgg said:

I think the Juki LU-1508NS is a more sturdier built machine then the Juki DNU-1541S made for heavier needs. When I was looking for a new machine what I found when comparing the machines the differences to be were:

Cost: Juki DNU-1541S ~ $1800 US vs Juki LU-1508NS ~$2600 US

The Juki DNU-1541S is lighter built machine and weights in at over 13 lbs lighter  (80.5 lb vs 93.7 lb) then the Juki LU-1508NS.

Both look almost identical except the the bed size of the Juki DNU-1541S is 1.6 inches smaller then the Juki LU-1508NS, (477x178mm vs 517mmx178mm)

Both have the same max thread size of V138. If you need / like to go to V207 you have to move up to the Juki LU-1509n

Both use the same needle system 135x16/17 and both have the same max stitch length of 9mm forward / reverse

The Juki 1541 S has a lower presser foot lift by knee 16 vs 18mm then the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a horizontal axis hook assembly vs the vertical of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a greater needle distance to machine arm of 264mm vs 255mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a smaller needle bar stroke of 36mm vs 38mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

The Juki 1541 S has a shorter amount of altering vertical movement of 2.5~6.5mm vs 2.5~8.5mm of the Juki LU-1508NS

kgg

 

 

 

KGG:   Very helpful review.  Thank you.

Most significant relevance to my application regarding the differences may be  bobbin size.   I understand from reading marketing information that one machine will pick-up the lower thread without removing the work piece should the bobbin run dry midstream...   If the 1541S accomplishes this feat it would be a nice alternative to the larger bobbin offered on the 1508.   Another nice feature of both these (light version) machines are their 441 compatible needle systems.  This simplifies life in my shop to a degree since I own a 441.   And lastly my application need is to so sew wallets / hand bags etc and as such either would appear to work.

Another short string of questions I have on same topic is with respect to the previous Juki model LU-563.  What is the current production equivalent?   How does the bobbin size of the 563 compare with the 1541S and 1508?   There is not an advantage the 563 has over one of the current production models is there?   From a product / manufacture / good business view it would not make sense to redesign a complete new family of products with actual lesser capability or reliability.   Yet a well used 563 sells for about the same as a slightly used 1541S.  

 

Silverd

[mikesc]

Any machine which has a horizontal axis ( under the table bobbin ) will let you change bobbins without removing the work from the table..
But you'd still have to stitch backwards and then forwards to "lock off" the ends of what ran out..

One thing that you can get away with on a horizontal axis bobbin is running occasionally thicker thread than is recommended, because you don't have the problem of very little "clearance" between the bobbin carrier and the sliding plate that covers it..Given taht you also have a441 , that may not be important to you , but may also be worth bearing in mind..You wouldn't want to try going bigger / thicker than 207 if the recommended max is 138, but a horizontal axis ( vertical bobbin ) model is more "forgiving" that way..of course you won't get a lot of 207 on the bobbin, but...

Changing bobbins from underneath ( "blind", by touch alone ) is easy to get used to..and in most horizontal axis bobbin machines, there is a sliding cover to the left of the needle that you can slide away for practice of that "change" , without any work on the table ..

[Silverd]

The 1541 will handle 138 top and bottom okay?   I would need that for sure with little performance compromise.   69- 138 is about all I will be using this machine for.

 

Silverd

[kgg]

51 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Changing bobbins from underneath ( "blind", by touch alone ) is easy to get used to..and in most horizontal axis bobbin machines, there is a sliding cover to the left of the needle that you can slide away for practice of that "change" , without any work on the table ..

I have a 1541S and hate trying to change the bobbin from underneath. My fingers / hand are to large to get the darn thing in properly, so for me I just remove the knee lift and tilt the machine back. I need the extra hand space and I can see that the bobbin / case are seated properly.

2 minutes ago, Silverd said:

The 1541 will handle 138 top and bottom okay?

My 1541S will handle V138 top and bottom but prefers either V69 top / bottom or V92 top / bottom which are both within the sweet spot. I have also used on occasion with no problems V92 top with V69 bottom and V69 top with V92 bottom. Why, just to lazy to change the bobbin out. I haven't had the need really to spend the time to tweak the machine for V138 as for my stuff either V69 or V92 works. I have even tried V46 which is the bottom end thread size for both the 1541S and the 1508n. Yes V46 will work but it posed just as many problems, just different, as when using the V138. I cann't really think of a good reason why someone would try to use V46 thread with the aggressiveness of these machines feeding systems.

kgg

[mikesc]

I'm big(ish) with hands etc to match.. ( glove size 10 or 11 depending on who makes them, long fingers, my main business is drawing, painting, sculpture, shoes size 13,14 or up depending* ) I discovered on my Juki it was easier to put the bobbin in the bobbin holder, then flip out the arm on the bobbin holder and put the entire thing in like that, then close the lever once it was in the hook..then I practised with my eyes closed ( no distractions ) ..after 15 minutes , no problems..no dropped bobbins..now :)

* going to begin making my own..getting harder to find my size here..specially in sandals or work boots..baskets etc,I destroy them in less than a month, maybe I should lose weight, and yet I walk light for a big guy..but the new kind of soles either spilt across the foot or collapse inside.

re changing bobbins out for different thicknesses..best to get more than one bobbin holder and set the springs of each one to a specific thread thickness..saves time on change over, less frustrating..and above all no risk of losing those little itty bitty screws that adjust the bobbin springs..

Edited July 30, 2019 by mikesc