FIRST SHOES FOR FERG

[Ferg]

mikesc

Not going to add any decoration on this set. I am thinking I will make her a pair of sandals/loafers later. 

Our family business gears up in about two three weeks. The shoes will probably get "slowed" a bit.

Ferg

[Ferg]

RockyAussie

She gave me a hard time when I posted personal aspects of her feet to my brothers.

For the time being that won't happen.

Ferg

[Ferg]

12 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Also I should have added a picture of the soles of her feet. I would be trying to see how much metatarsal drop compared to bunion swelling amongst other stuff. I am in the middle of a large run of belts so I will have to check back on and off today. If one knee goes inward more than the other are things to be noted as well.

There doesn't seem to be much metatarsal drop yet. She says her doctor doesn't call her side bump a bunion so she doesn't want me to infer that. LOL He describes those as swelling bones so we will leave that at that.

Leg stability and knee placement aren't affected, now anyway. She has retarded movement in both big toes and is considering surgery, not me. Second toes are slightly longer than big. They are Hammer toes also so I raised that area of the shoe toe to help that condition. When I finished altering the LAST's, I was afraid I may have done too much. When we try the TW shoe I am sure those things will show their dirty little heads.

Feet are not flat. Arches seem to be normal for her age. She does have some pain in that area of course.

First responder mentioned, "Why didn't I use a LAST that was closer to her feet." Or why didn't I make a cast and do the LAST myself. I have been a woodworker all my life, I ain't going there.

Ferg

[Ferg]

For those of you who feel like trying the "shoe making thing". I have more than your average number of leather working tools, I still needed to buy a few more. 

Cordwainer Tools and Lisa Sorrell have tools as well as other necessities. Both are prompt and helpful.

Tim Skyrma, Marcell Mrsan, and Frank Jones of Noble Footwear have books. I bought the books directly from the authors.

My amateur advice is to buy the books and watch every video pertaining to same. Read the books cover to cover with no interruption before beginning this most challenging endeavor I have tried. I taught myself to program computers and CNC machines, making shoes correctly is more difficult.

Ferg

[mikesc]

"First responder's" real job is a designer , artist, sculptor..I went waaaaaay past "there" in wood and other materials many decades ago :)
When I get around to making my "foot shaped" shoes / boots, they'll have to have toe and sole protection, my "store bought" ones have that protection in steel, but my neighbour has the same protection ( very expensive engineers type boots ) in Kevlar, lighter on the feet, and Kevlar is easy to mold.
I buy some leather ( some exotics ) from a friend who is a shoe and bootmaker ( bespoke, very expensive, luxury footwear )..so I'll have some "guidance" and use of his tools and workshop..But there is more than one way to skin a .... so .like when Brian posts "how tos" I follow along with interest, the watching / hearing / reading the problem solving process of other people's minds, is often at least as interesting as the finished results..Be it woodworking, sculpture, painting, drawing, leatherwork, building, restoring, whatever. :)

I agree with what you have written to the left of your profile "interests" wholeheartedly Ferg :)

[RockyAussie]

On 8/21/2019 at 8:24 AM, Ferg said:

My wife has rather severe arthritis in her feet and ankles. We have bought enough shoes to fill a store, that do not exactly fit.

Had inserts designed by a foot specialist that helped some for several months. Thousands of dollars for orthotics.

I told her I could certainly try to make her a pair that she could be somewhat comfortable with.

She is not happy for a picture of even the orthotics? With arthritis and associated problems in the feet I would recomend trying to keep the shoes light and not overly structured. I have witnessed where some surgical shoe makers have made their traditional Herman Munster boots to see blisters and sores that are horrific. Being told that they have to wear them in is Bullshit.The age of the person and thinness of their skin must be considered highly. I will leave you with a recommendations to consider in your next pair. Do not make the heel counter come down as far as normal and do not make them overly strong and inflexible. Slipping at the heel is a common problem that gives blisters and many other resulting lack of support problems.At the top of the  heel counter between the lining and the heel counter put in a 1/8" or more thickness of some foam rubber. This would normally be about 3"+ straightish at the top line and about 1/2" deep at the very back coming around to nearly 1" deep where it cups around just above the calcaneus bone. Wrapping your hand around above the heel bone with your thumb and finger will give you some idea. The next is adding a 3 to 4mm piece of leather to the bottom of your last. This is to accommodate a preferably high memory foam insole/sock liner. If you allow room for a eva rubber style insole they can be sanded down here and there until the shoe feels perfect. I seem to recall that you have some sort of a vacuum setup and that may come in handy if you want to do a little trick that I used to do (other than make orthotics). If you can find out where to get some clear thermo mould-able plastic sheeting about .6mm thick you may be able to get it to mould to your last shape.  Sort of the TW shoe tester. This is normally sucked down onto the last with an insole leather attached to it beforehand. The top line is marked on your last then cut out and sliced down the centre line to about where your lacing would end on a derby style. You put this on the persons foot and if there is any tight areas (bone swellings )   it will be VERY obvious as the skin will be very white in comparison to the surrounding skin. Also any loose areas will be able to be seen and you can decide if they should be removed from the last or not. This plastic is somewhat stiff and not as forgiving as the leather version shoe and is a very good acid test of your last shape. Elastic type laces are sometimes good to use as well. I hope that it all goes well for you and her.

[Ferg]

I told her you would like to see photos of her feet. She said she didn't have any problem with it since it would be helping someone else.

Thanks a million for your "Notes". I will place a copy in the "Shoe" folder. lol

The only thing we have left from her foot doctor is the Insole he made for her a couple years ago.

I have the metal for making a jig to hold the last with uppers when I am ready to attach the outer sole. Also making a couple other tools.

Scrapped most of my design for the shoe earlier today. Just didn't look right. Been using some scrap leather I have had for some time in making this Throw Away.

Will send some photos as I get a little further along.

Ferg

[Aven]

Ferg, I don't know what you have as far as books go, but I was able to get a couple from Walrus Shoe Co.  Larry was most accommodating.

[Ferg]

BOOKS:

Pattern Cutting Step by Step, patterns for footwear by Frank Jones. He rewrote the book in 2008 to bring it up to date plus adding some additional info.

Definitely the best book for detail and exact drawings that I have. Obviously it is for making patterns for shoes.

BESPOKE SHOEMAKING: A comprehensive guide to handmade footwear by Tim Skyrme. Tim's book has a boat load of information. Illustrations leave something to be desired.

Marcell Mrsan: Brilliant shoemaker. He is Bavarian, at least semi-retired. Resides in Savannah, Georgia I presume. Hundreds of videos on the Net. Very articulate and definitely knows what he's talking about.

Marcell's Web-Site: www.cordwainertools.com. I have his STANDARD FOOTWARE PATTERN RULER. A video showing how to use the "Ruler" is on this site. https://vimeo.com/ondemand/shoemakingtutorials/332899515?autoplay=1 

I found the Ruler very complicated as are most things pertaining to true shoe making. After using it to make the drawings for wife's shoes I am flabbergasted at the knowledge it took to devise the multitude of things you can do with it. I

used it along with Pattern Cutting book.

Also have:  

This book is very interesting read. Doesn't go into detail as to making shoes.

BTW: Decided I didn't like the design of the uppers for wife's shoes. Changing a few things, not the main style though. Parts just didn't seem quite right.

Ferg

[Aven]

I have two books by George Koeff, Shoe & Boot Designing Manual  and Last Designing & Making Manual.   The last making manual has a DVD to go with the book.  The shoe & boot is similar to the Pattern Cutting Step by Step,  I think the Shoe & Boot Designing Manual is easier for me to follow.  I got both of the Koeff books from Walrus Shoes.