Leather is wrinkling on folds, not sure how to fix

[sonataworks]

Hey guys,

Making a bi-fold wallet on. I've glued on this piece with rubber cement but I find that it's wrinkling a lot and I'm not sure how to smooth it out.

I was pretty sure I bought some pretty quality leather too, so this is a bit concerning.

How do I fix it? Should I just start a new piece?

[RockyAussie]

Could be a bit of loose top grain there but I suspect that your strip is too thick. Around 1mm or less would be better. Also when attaching this type of thing when it has to be folded a general rule of thumb is to bend it as you attach it to around 90 degrees. Your strip would be maybe 3mm shorter in length + -. Easier to cut it after though.

[sonataworks]

Thanks RockyAussie - do you think it's fixable, or will I have to make a new piece?

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, sonataworks said:

Thanks RockyAussie - do you think it's fixable, or will I have to make a new piece?

Sorry to say I think you have to remove and try as I said.

[sonataworks]

On 9/9/2019 at 1:58 AM, RockyAussie said:

Could be a bit of loose top grain there but I suspect that your strip is too thick. Around 1mm or less would be better. Also when attaching this type of thing when it has to be folded a general rule of thumb is to bend it as you attach it to around 90 degrees. Your strip would be maybe 3mm shorter in length + -. Easier to cut it after though.

I just wanted to bump this, as it doesn't feel necessary to start a new topic.

I am still getting a lot of wrinkling in my pieces, particularly when the pieces fold.

For example, I have been making some keychains. They look great when folded, but not so much if you were to lay them flat. The wrinkles are very obvious and hard to hide.
See attached photos.

Now, I'm wondering if it's just because the leather is..drier? Because it has been dyed on both sides..

I'm really hoping it's not a problem with inferior leather quality, as I went to a very reputable leather dealer in our city (that wasn't Tandy). I've read some threads about how the top grain might be loose, but I'm just not sure.

[johnv474]

When you fold something over, imagine it is going around a racetrack.  The leather on the outside lane has to travel a longer distance and the leather on the inside travels less. If turned too sharp, the inside has nowhere to go and crinkles.  The thicker the leather or tighter the curve, the more this happens.

To address it now, you can try to press out the wrinkles with something smooth, like a bone folder, after getting the leather damp.

This can be partly avoided by using thinner leather or attaching it when the leather is partly folded already.  In the case of a wallet, glue down half of the inside part, flip over, press over the edge of a table.  Then, turn it around and glue down the other half over the edge again. Or, glue the bend down while holding the bend around a small dowel.

The other option is to help the leather get a little more flexible.  Working the leather under pressure while folding, e.g while bending first time, apply pressure at fold and push down wrinkles as they want to form. Some water will help.  Some water with a little soap in it will help more.

The last option is a design change.  On most mens wallets, the outside and inside connect in two separate sections, with an unattached part in the middle, and the outside is slightly longer than the inside (which makes wallets stay partially folded while at rest).  When opening/closing, the two parts have room to move independently at the spine.

Hope this helps.

[johnv474]

P.s, if the leather has dried due to dyeing as you mentioned, some Lexol or Dubbin or other conditioner will help with pliability.

[LeatherCritic]

In case this is worth mentioning, I actually like the wrinkles.  I think it adds to the authenticity of the leather and gives a little character to the piece.

Edited October 12, 2019 by LeatherCritic

[Northmount]

When you fold the leather, you are stretching the outside layer.  It isn't elastic.  It won't return to it's original size/length.  that is just the nature of the beast!

Tom

[sonataworks]

On 10/12/2019 at 4:12 AM, johnv474 said:

When you fold something over, imagine it is going around a racetrack.  The leather on the outside lane has to travel a longer distance and the leather on the inside travels less. If turned too sharp, the inside has nowhere to go and crinkles.  The thicker the leather or tighter the curve, the more this happens.

To address it now, you can try to press out the wrinkles with something smooth, like a bone folder, after getting the leather damp.

This can be partly avoided by using thinner leather or attaching it when the leather is partly folded already.  In the case of a wallet, glue down half of the inside part, flip over, press over the edge of a table.  Then, turn it around and glue down the other half over the edge again. Or, glue the bend down while holding the bend around a small dowel.

The other option is to help the leather get a little more flexible.  Working the leather under pressure while folding, e.g while bending first time, apply pressure at fold and push down wrinkles as they want to form. Some water will help.  Some water with a little soap in it will help more.

The last option is a design change.  On most mens wallets, the outside and inside connect in two separate sections, with an unattached part in the middle, and the outside is slightly longer than the inside (which makes wallets stay partially folded while at rest).  When opening/closing, the two parts have room to move independently at the spine.

Hope this helps.

Thanks John - this is very informative.

I'm just wondering how the other leatherworkers get such nice smooth bends in their products and mine is ending up so wrinkled.

I'm wondering if using some oils to restore the leather would help? Not sure how to go about that. My rationale is that the 50/50 alcohol/dye mixture is harsh on the leather.

[TargetRockLeather]

I've encountered the same problem when making a small pouch  out of thick leather (7-9 oz). A trick I learned is to skive the inside surface of the bend, to make it thinner. Also, while it might make sense to dampen the leather to help it bend, I find that it contributes the wrinkling problem once it has dried. More recently I try not to wet the leather at all, If I can bend the piece without cracking it. That seems to alleviate the wrinkling for me.

[YinTx]

1 hour ago, sonataworks said:

I'm wondering if using some oils to restore the leather would help? Not sure how to go about that. My rationale is that the 50/50 alcohol/dye mixture is harsh on the leather.

You absolutely should recondition the leather with neatsfoot oil after applying dye.  Dubbin is good too, it usually has NFO in it.  If you don't it may also tend to crack over time.  Also, purchase high quality harness or bridle leather helps too, as well as using thinner leathers as mentioned when going round bends.

YinTx

[DanC]

You could try wetting it (not soaking it) and ironing it.  Yup - iron.  Place a piece of material under the iron first.

Also, instead of attaching it flat, put it on, glued and all, then fold it into shape and let it dry that way.  Use a test piece to see if you like how it turns out.

[Dwight]

On straps you do not want the wrinkles, . . . bend if first around a half inch bolt, . . . then a 3/8 inch bolt, . . . and finally a 1/4 inch bolt, . . . all while it is more than damp, . . . but not sopping wet either.  AND, . . . don't just bend it around the bolt, . . . pull on it while you are doing it.  This will stretch the outside layer a bit, . . . and it won't look as wrinkled.

What I usually do is form mine right after I dye them, . . . OR, . . . right after the first coat of the final finish.  You have to touch up either one, . . . just depends on which you want to mess with.

My worst offender is the buckle end of CCW belts, . . . but with a bit of care, . . . they won't look too awful bad.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited November 19, 2019 by Dwight